Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Can someone please confirm if the side skirts and the rear pod bits on the car in the picture are a nismo body kit?

If so, does anyone know how much they are worth new? And how much they have roughly been selling for when used / second hand?

Any info is much appreciated.

Cheers!

post-54322-1255524277_thumb.jpgpost-54322-1255524322_thumb.jpg

Edited by KR4-GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292035-r34-gtr-is-this-a-nismo-body-kit/
Share on other sites

Hey Chris,

Genuine Nismo gear is very expensive.

Side Skirts $1270 via air or $1100 via sea, Price do not include local GST or import duties.

Rear pods $860 via air or $840 via sea, Price do not include local GST or import duties.

Cheers,

Johno

Hey mate, they look like the Z-tune side skirts and rear pods.

I just bought a set of the skirts and pods from Bodyform Aero in NSW for $580 ($330 sides/$250 rear)

From all accounts I'd heard, Bodyform were the way to go so I took the plunge and gave them a try.

Peter and Allan there were very helpful and quick to respond to emails.

I've written more on here about my experience with them.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4850400

My car is currently in getting them put on, I'll be picking it up after work today so I can provide pics of what it looks like but I'm pretty confident it'll look good.

When I dropped the parts in to DT Panels, their reaction was "Whoa are these genuine? Are you sure?? They look very well made!" haha that brough a smile to my face.

They're either genuine Nismo or Nismo lookalike. Most replicas seem to be made with fibreglass, the real ones are plastic. The side skirts make the car bloody low, I've already had a few decent hits on speed humps, and when I saw the price on replacing them, I decided to get them repaired instead lol

Uh oh haha, I knew it would make it lower but was hoping it wouldn't be too much lower!

Have you lowered your car too Kristian? I'm hoping I can survive my driveway when I get my car back tonight.. the front lip gets a good bashing already at home and I had to take it off!

Yep agree, there is no way mine is driving over a coke can either, unless the can is on its side maybe :whistling:

if it can go over a coke can on its side... its still to high... flat coke can FTW!

Mine are F/G from JSAI. They were as I recall, about $700 for both sideskirts and rear pods.

I had my front splitter body-colour-coded at the same time (but that's on a car which is already black).

Bodyform Aero makes/fits the same. E: [email protected] P: (02)87835446

I was originally going to say that, lol

By the way, Animal Chin is at my place

hahaha.. "i have a friend, his name is animal, dont worry bout his name, he's not a cannibal, he's always happy, he's got a grin... have you seen him..

he's Animal ch-ch-ch-chin!"

ill be there sunday so we'll find him... is johnny rad there too?? dont want to miss his gig... you guys are gelling.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see... Any idea how much fab work is required? I note the Hygear megathread but its like 900 pages
    • I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
×
×
  • Create New...