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Orange R33 Skyline

islade
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islade Rising Star

islade

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Posted

1993 Skyline R33 GTS-T

122,000km. $12,500

Hey,

I've owned (and loved!) this car for the last 5 years.

After repainting the car in January, the turbo died. Ratherthan replacing the stock turbo, I had a much bigger one installed. Inhindsight, that was a bad idea, as I've now lost all my license points as thecar accelerates so easily. To ensure that I don't lose my license because Ineed it for work, I've bought a Hyundai excel.

SERVICING

The car has 122,000km's on it. I had a major service done at 100,000km's whichincluded a new heavy duty radiator, spitfire coilpacks, air con regassing, aswell as the usual timing belts, spark plugs, etc. I have it serviced every5,000km's by Gavin Wood AUTOTECH. Rebuilt and Re-shimmed diff.

INTERIOR

The interior looked a bit dated and old, so I've replaced everything I could tomake it more comfortable and modern looking. This includes a Series IIInstrument Cluster, Genuine R33 GTR Seats, Leather Steering Wheel, new leatherhand brake boot, gear boot and centre console cover, GTR gearknob, andcustom-made R33 floormats. If you have ever been in a normal GTS-T, you willsee and feel how much nicer this is.

The stereo consists of an Alpine head unit (iPOD and USBinput), and front and rear 6.5" splits running from a boot mounted amplifier.

EXTERIOR

Series I R33's aren't very attractive, so I performed a full Series II conversionincluding Series II headlights and grill, LED taillights, Trial front bodykit,and Series II rear spoiler. The car has 18" Wheels with Federal 595 Tyres. Thecar was originally dark gray, but was resprayed in Electric Orange in January,which has yellow in it when viewed in the sun. The car is lowered on TEINsuspension, with rolled front and rear guards.

ENGINE

All engine work has been done by Gavin Wood AUTOTECH.

Genuine Garrett GT3076 (0.82 exh housing) with 50mm External Wastegate.

PowerFC (Z32 AFM and 480cc Nissan S15 injectors)

Full 3" metal intake and exhaust. Front Mount Intercooler and Turbosmart BOV.

250kw with Dyno Sheets on conservative street tune.

PROBLEMS

All the usual R33 problems that happen at this age have been addressed. I'vehad the drivers power window relay fixed (R33 drivers power window often stopsworking after 15 years), air con buttons fixed (they occasionally break). Theclutch "friction point" is very close to the floor. I had the master and slavecylinder's rebuilt, which didn't help. My mechanic said it's not worth fixinguntil I am replacing the clutch, which I haven't done yet as it's still verygrippy.

I've owned this car for 5 years and really don't want to lether go, but it's either that or 1 more speeding fine causing a loss of license(and my job!).

Please, no test pilots!

Call or SMS Isaac anytime on 0421 517 163

My workplace has bad phone reception so between 8-4 I can be reached on (07)5573 8572

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      Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
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      As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
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      but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
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      Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
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      if need be I guess I will, yeah. Just to be clear, it's okay to use the sill area around the jacking points for loading, meaning the actual pinch weld or jacking point just sits in the slot without taking on any weight?
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