Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 GTST S2

R32 ECU NISTUNE

STOCK TURBO

FMIC JJR RETURN FLOW

3 INCH TURBO JJR SPLIT DUMP

EBC

K&N PANEL FILTER

Z32 AFM

Dynos Attached.

R33 GTST S2

R32 ECU NISTUNE

STOCK TURBO

FMIC JJR RETURN FLOW

3 INCH TURBO JJR SPLIT DUMP

EBC

K&N PANEL FILTER

Z32 AFM

Dynos Attached.

Second sheet bit under 13psi

post-57979-1276569431_thumb.jpg

post-57979-1276569441_thumb.jpg

Hey guys, been a long time since i had another skyline!!:)

96 r33 s2

rb25det unopened 105800kms

splitfire coils

bosch pump

660cc inj

hks gtrs

front mount

3" exhaust

pfc

e-boost 2

310.9hp at 14.5 psi

or 230kw? at 14.5psi

pretty happy with it. Going for retune soon. will update.

  • 2 weeks later...

update:

RB25 NEO - Internally stock except for Type B pon cams

600cc inj

Nistune

FMIC

044 pump

3076R turbo with AM Performance manifold

44mm Tial gate

Fuel is 50/50 mix of E85/bp98

Boost 16 psi

358 rwkw :)

fuel is insane... was making 315 rwkw on 1.4 bar with petrol before... got bigger gate and then changed to fuel mix and can put in an extra 15 degrees of timing in at FULL load... awesome!

img0030bs.jpg

518rwhp@20psi and 573rwhp@25psi with a GT35R w/ 1.06a/r exh housing

-Engine management

Vipec

-Boost ran and Fuel used

20psi on pump and 25psi on csr e85

-significant engine mods

Fully built engine and all supporting mods

DSC06167.jpg

DSC06172.jpg

DSR3540J82

RB25DET NEO

410KW @24PSI Dyna Pack

360KW @24PSI Roller Dyno

Car was tuned causing problems for the tuner. Stating the crank angle sensor was failing ( see BLUE for Dyna Pack )

Car was taken home. While on way home decided to visit speed Source for second opinion. he did a run ( see blue ) Then stated is not the sensor its the tune. Then showing me 30 seconds of improve pulling out much of the lopp drop off around 320KW.

Car will be taken back for Tune with speed Source later on this week to pull out dent and lift threw power curves.

sinco.jpg

sinco2.jpg

p1030712.jpg

p1030811.jpg

p1030818.jpg

Edited by dsrturbo

rb25 s2 motor

pfc

avcr @ 10.8psi

malpassi reg

walbro intank

return flow fmic

full exhaust

hks 2530

205rwkw...going back for a retune and more boost with new coilpacks

didnt get a dyno sheet for it. will do for next one... full boost by around 2500rpm :(

hoping for ~ 240 @ around 1.3 bar

Hey guys, Ive got a Series 2 R33 GtsT, Mine pulled 199.9hp or roughly 158kw atw stock turbo, stock cooler, stock everything except for a turbosmart t piece boost control running about 8psi and a 3inch dump pipe with standard exhaust to cannon tip(dont ask thats how it was when i brought it lol) Ill throw a pic up soon, also dyno day this weekend now with a FMC and more boost should be interesting to see the difference.

R33 GTST S1

split dump turbo-back exhaust with hi-flow stainless steel cat. Kakimoto racing muffler (very quiet)

splitfires, cold spark plugs.

FMIC

Greddy Profec Spec B- 12psi

Remapped ECU chip by Toshi

Pod filter.

277hp -207KW

post-68049-1280726181_thumb.jpg

post-68049-1280726195_thumb.jpg

99 R34 GTT - RB25DET NEO

Custom FMIC

Apexi pod filter

Custom cold air intake / induction

3" Turbo back exhaust

Garrett GT3076 internal gate .82 rear

700cc (ish) high flowed standard injectors

Haltech P2000 ECU (3 bar map sensor)

Bosch fuel pump (?)

Greddy Profec spec B boost controller

Daily driver 'safe tune' @ 18psi = 272.9rwkw

Max power before 6k all the way to redline so definitely has more in it!

Tuned by Simon @ Morpowa.

Tuned the above on a 50/50 ethanol and BP98 blend.

299.1rwkw @ around 20psi. (Having trouble attaching the dyno chart...)

Tried to crank a couple more pounds into it but the intake temps started going skyward and it actually made less power - obviously a restriction somewhere, going to try to drop the cat and see if that helps. Otherwise it might be the IW exhaust housing?

Feels MUCH more responsive throughout the range on the road - ethanol FTW.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys

my r33 gts-t s1 is putting out 195rwkw on:

-stock internals

-stock s1 turbo

-hybrid intercooler

-apexi power fc

-greddy imitation plenum

-splitfire coils

-gizzmo boost controller

I will update once I put my Nos kit, Nitto head gasket, turbo + high mount, tomei intank and forgies

hopefully 250rwkw

sorry forgot to mention Tanabe full exhaust kit

250rwkw on low reading dyno, very responsive (full boost at 3600rpm, 3rd gear on road)

Rebuilt engine (but using oem parts and 0.050 o/s bore pistons), 68xxxkms

gt2871r (from what i've read, equivalent to a gt-rs)

intake (boxed pod), tbe/cat, coilpacks, fmic, pfc+boost module, 32 afm, inj, exh cam gear, head ported/trimmed valve guides, valve springs, 044 pump, alloy rad,

1.25 bar setting

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
    • Oh, yes. If you connected it to the manifold your first drive would be very eventful. Very shit. Very interesting. Perhaps take a video if you feel the need to see. Terminating the breather at the top of the bellhousing is normal/stock. Some gearbox lubes (hello Redline Shockproof) like to foam up a bit and require the breather to be extended up higher, so you don't get spots of smurf jizz staining the floor under your car. Mine is thus right up behind the head. Make sure you fit a u-bend at the top so it points back downward so that dirt and schmutz has a harder time getting into it.
    • Cheers for the replies. So i don't connect it to the manifold I just run the hose high up on the firewall?
    • It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue
×
×
  • Create New...