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Struggled as well. Got a 3:33.250 but couldn't find the half a second to get silver. I always slowed too much at the Esses du Karting section (specifically the last left hander going on to Maison Blanche). There's a good 1 - 1.5 seconds to be picked up there for sure. The other 1.5 seconds needed for gold would be just cleaning up the rest of the slower corners. I did notice though watching the ghost replays of guys getting 3:25's, they used the green painted surfaces to the extreme, with barely the inside tyres on the ripple strips. It looked like they had the car completely on the green paint at times (but obviously still contacting the ripple strips).
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Pac changed their profile photo
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Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?
Pac replied to V35_Paul's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Good afternoon SAU Team , I thought I would a quick update on the 400R , so far a quick ICE system mod using carlinkit , I can run full android without a phone , but it does allow for wireless carplay/android auto, loads a bit slow but everything works well. But the better update is ,I just received Fujitsubo exhaust straight from Japan thanks to the guys at Black Hawk (https://www.blackhawkjapan.com/) (highly recommended)around 3k mark with shipping and GST . Will install this weekend , I'll post some updated pictures then. -
For Sale: Hardy Spicer center bearing np-30-6250 for R32 gtst Condition: Brand new! Brought for R33 gtst which it doesn't fit. brand new unused. Price: $95 JustJaps listing - https://justjap.com/products/hardy-spicer-replacement-centre-bearing-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-laurel-2wd?currency=AUD#description
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- hardy spicer
- center bearing
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Constant tension spring clamps need to be replaced if bent past a certain point. Once they turn to a certain age it's also an automatic replacement in my book. They get rusty and lose their tension. Also once hoses get to a certain age if you don't set the clamp exactly in the groove when disconnecting/reconnecting the hose it will almost certainly leak. As mentioned before you should also cap off the idle-up valve to make sure it's not sucking fluid or leaking air into the system. It's generally speaking less demotivating to figure out which change fixed your problem vs failing over and over until you locate the problem precisely.
- Yesterday
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jgreene789 joined the community
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Dreadfully Distinct changed their profile photo
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Yeah , boot clamp was solid/ not sure how it got there but no leak so all good there is loads of green grease still so do think it is likely to be a special grease or something thanks again for your help mate to shed the light
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Rack boot? Green liquid is more likely to be coolant that got there somehow during some previous terrible event. What does it taste like?
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Issue fixed and it is working like a charm. Thank you for continued support qq, my power steering colour is red( atf) but when I removed the cv boost, can see green liquuid of few drops, is that grease which has melted from the rack?
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Christmas came early this year … titanium piping ready for installation … IMG_5349.mov
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I might have found it, it was the inlet clip from resorviour leaking bur unsure if that is because I did not put the clamp back on correctly ( fully on the groove) or it had moved/ had always being like that i moved the clamp and now doing more tests i pressurised the system to 30 psi ( hydrulic system can take way more by doing little search around 150-400psi) and seen fluid was pushed out from inlet clamp. See my ingenious way of doing now doing vacumme test.
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price drop $5000
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Great will test
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If doing that ^, I'd take the idle up valve out and plug the hole in the pump.
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You can try capping the power steering idle up valve at both ends if it's old. The valve and the intake manifold. That is something that is known to fail in Toyotas with age and it will suck power steering fluid into the intake and burn it in the engine which can cause issues. Then bleed it again with engine off first. Do like 30+ lock to lock turns with the front wheels off the ground.
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Mike K started following 2007 V36 Skyline rear stereo plugs.
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Hi Brent, I am wondering if you ever worked this out? I have upgraded this unit to a newer one and everything works bar the reverse camera, so i really want to know what plugs are what so I can patch the camera through. many thanks in advance Mike
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Mike K joined the community
- Last week
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Once you have to get up in the morning and be useful, you suddenly value sleep it turns out :p
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Update: smoke test all pipes no issues cleaned reservoir fluid put in ( dexron 3 atf) steering turn side to side and could hearing gurgling from steering rack which I assumed was air lock, opened one of the steering rack connections and could see loads of air getting pushed out( not sure if you meant to do that / whether it will re introduce air into system) anyways, loads of side to side sound was gone. Turned car on, pump was slightly ( barely) wining so turned side to side few more turns and fluid level when car on was almost none in resorvoir which I guess is normal if car is one. Turned car of and fluid was gushing out. Almost 200-300cc was pushed out. Repeated engine off side to side followed by engine on and same result going mad now. It seems system is either sucking air in whilst on or there is tons of air which I am not giving it enough time to bleed. Thoughts? would it work like brake caliper if I open steering rack copper pipes and let gravity pull all air out? or maybe have a restriction somewhere? What is the red circled item, could that be blocked? It i
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MLR's Bogan cruise ship
The Bogan replied to The Bogan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Yeah, the plan is to just put some black rubber vacuum line caps over them to "hide" them a bit I don't want to trim them in cause I need to put the OEM box back on at some stage -
mike2jz joined the community
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It's a load sense idle up valve.
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Duncan started following Drivers R32 GTR seat
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AP Engineering Power Fc for RB20DET
GTSBoy replied to Roy's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Plug and play. Need a tune. It's a PowerFC, same as any other PFC, just not needing an AFM. -
Genuine GTR seat? There are none you would actually want for <$3k a pair.
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mtopxsecret6 started following AP Engineering Power Fc for RB20DET and Drivers R32 GTR seat
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Hi everyone, just looking to see what's available in the GTR seat options, testing the waters on what's available. Wanting a driver's seat to replace my old school OG jap race seat, going to re-register the car so need a factory seat. Prices currently seem to go from $300 to $2k for a driver's seat. What's options are there, that's good condition and actually a realistic price? Located Brisbane. Thanks
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AP Engineering Power Fc for RB20DET
mtopxsecret6 replied to Roy's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Are these a plug and play setup, and do they need a tune, like a haltech ecu etc? Thanks -
MLR's Bogan cruise ship
Milkmun replied to The Bogan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Nice work on the paint. Those 3 studs are long as. -
Hi everyone, still chasing a bunch of this stuff. Thanks
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Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx
robbo_rb180 replied to robbo_rb180's topic in Motorsport Builds
Been over 2 months since I have done anything on the S15 and had a day off today so got stuck into mounting the radiator and intercooler. I ended up using factory bottom mounts as bolted in and I did order some gktech top brackets but didn't work with the PWR radiator so made up some with aluminium flat bar. Spent way to long on them but pretty happy how they are. Next job was the intercooler. Used some more aluminium flat bar and did the bottom mounts first. Top was easy as just one long piece and 2 90 degree coming off rad support and welded them on. The bumper support required some notching to let the outlets sit where I want so will add some reinforcement later to strengthen it. I have also bought ecu and waiting for it to arrive. Went with a Link g4x Xtreme but will be adding a ptmotorsport expander to add a few extra inputs over CAN. Went through a few different configurations on pclink to get what I want to allow future expansion for sensors and gearbox upgrades. Ordered gktech rear arms but looking at the hardrace lower control arms to have some extra adjustment too will see how the alignment looks after first setup. Got 2 more weeks of work before shut down and will have almost 4 weeks to work on this so planning on hopefully firing up mid January. Also bought a 2015 brz with a heap of good gear, did noosa hill climb a month back. Owned it for 3 days changed alignment and sent it. Finished the weekend 2nd in class and only .3 off the 180sx best time last year. MCA Red coilovers, gktech rear lca, bolt on lock kit and tie rods, whiteline toe arms, cusco 1.5way diff and 4.5 ratio, endless brake pads, headers, exhaust, perrin intake and e85 tune. Electronic steering adjustment, nankang crs with koya wheels 17x9 +35. Have bought rear traction arm and relocation kit, extended studs and v3 tie rod kit. Planning on also getting flex tune as lucky to get 300km a tank with e85 and short ratio. Car is a heap of fun to drive and super easy to work on. AC in the line up at Noosa was mint in 35degree weather.