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What I suggest doesn't have a 40° delta and won't have all your lurching, idle hunting issues. Not to mention it's how most shops do it too. So yes on theory your method "works" however once it goes into that hunt it takes much longer to settle as the PID idle strategy is working off it's tits to try target the set RPM.

Does it pass the pub test? Yeah nah.

You'd think they'd test it on a few high HP cars for a decent time before releasing, unless it is simply a one off or faulty clutches. Guess time will tell.

Ain't that the truth. I tried to save money, got my 1st motor built by a small "Facebook accredited" workshop, motor blew up in 2x track days. 2nd motor, took it to Birrong Automotive and it's seen 6 solid track days and not a single issue, except frying the clutch.

Poor man pays twice. That’s how this works.

I'm glad someone else already raised the sunken cost fallacy. No point spending more money on shit that won't work properly, when you can scrap those parts and start again, and likely not cost much more than making the shit you've got work.

I have copied the images in the original post from photobucket to the SAU servers to make sure they stay available.

Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!

Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/ OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.

Noice. Mostly.

Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before. It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!

Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.

Just wanted to say thank you for your input my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun. I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences: Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe 3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg

Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i.

Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.

Haha yeah I know, this is SAU after all, why are we talking about BMW's of all things!? I hear you on the 'don't have to worry about it' side of things. Having been fortunate enough to be have been able to buy a brand new motorbike or two...never really enjoyed them as much as I'd have liked as you worry so much about where you park it, will it get scratched, stolen, attempted theft, knocked over, etc...and yes dirty. Older less valuable bikes you can just go where you want and park it wherever and not really worry that much in comparison. And who cares if it gets dirty! Never owned a V8, and have had my eyes on VE / VF commodores for years but with their prices climbing so high, the M3 has come into focus more as prices are much closer than I've ever seen...is it a potential contender now?...of course need to factor in the S65 'maintenance' especially and like you said general M car 'tax'. One can dream anyway. But more on the reality front - did read the whole 330i thread as well and was a great read too, both threads enlightening as I've never even driven one of these cars! I do recall 330i didn't seem to have the same amount of issues for almost the same car (turbos and related differences notwithstanding)...perhaps down to getting it earlier in it's life so looked after better than the 335i? Perhaps so as your 130i has been good and quite similar, so finding a car that's been looked after well is the especially-crucial-BMW-first-step.

Nice. Dont worry about the time of not running. My current skyline hasn't run since I bought it. About 8 years ago.

It's also worth noting that I am heavily and unconditionally biased. I've had a lot of cars including some GTRs a fair while ago. I love my BMW's now a lot. They make no sense a lot of the time and the guys on here remind me regularly that I could get something else that does what I want better and cheaper. If you're going to take on an older BMW it's definitely a commitment. If you bail on it early you'll lose money and also the ability for it to put a smile on your face. Stick with it and it just gets better. f**k I should get into advertising.

Careful with posts like that around here without the flame suit on @cobo_11! 😂😂 My 330i journal is on here too. That car was so good and super reliable. We still have a 130i in the family which is almost identical to the 330i and easier to find in manual. It has also been almost faultless over the 6 or so years in the family. I used to want an M car a lot more than I do now but if I'm honest and without trying to sound like a wanker, I can get such good performance and handling out of my 335 without needing to worry about all the crap that goes along with M car ownership. I don't need to worry about my bearings or subframe issues or the cost of replacing brakes or suspension or whether it has been impeccably maintained. And I can leave it places and not get upset when it's always filthy.

A pretty cool little feature discovered while restoring my seats.

Great write ups / details / photos. I'm sort of on the road to E90 ownership (325i or 330i), haven't hit the fork in the road yet "Yes" | "No", and some of the issues you've faced have me nervous for the age these are getting to nowadays (that wiring, jesus), but I'm guessing the pro's of ownership are still outweighing the con's? Of course, if the bloody tattslotto ROI actually went my way...E90 M3. And I'd have the cash to do all the extra lovely maintenance THOSE require. 😄

They sure do, great for when you need to chuck a sickie 😅 You should definitely give the beast a squirt on the track, great to enjoy the car

had mine powder coated a hundred years ago [ok, over 20 years ago] and they are fine

Just want to say that the wheel choice is... choice 😅 What a beautiful example of a tastefully modded 32GT-R

never been do they do mid week track days.. I am just about to ordered Nismo suspension arms I might have to put them in use,, I've been looking at you You tube Vids..lol