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The car is still in paint jail. Here are some paint jail photos of things in primer and disassembled. I visited yesterday, though these photos were from about a month ago, the status is much the same. There's just more dust now. Especially inside the car too, which apparently is fine and normal... but I think I'll be never ever having a clean interior ever again lol. As this has dragged along, a few new parts have also arrived which was supposed to be well after paint... where Greg replaces every single bit of the engine except the bottom end. This is extreme LS nerd stuff dialed to 11/10 that's probably not really suited for target audience here. (and there's more in the mail, from the US). .6 points
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UPDATE: Hi all! As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!6 points
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Been over 2 months since I have done anything on the S15 and had a day off today so got stuck into mounting the radiator and intercooler. I ended up using factory bottom mounts as bolted in and I did order some gktech top brackets but didn't work with the PWR radiator so made up some with aluminium flat bar. Spent way to long on them but pretty happy how they are. Next job was the intercooler. Used some more aluminium flat bar and did the bottom mounts first. Top was easy as just one long piece and 2 90 degree coming off rad support and welded them on. The bumper support required some notching to let the outlets sit where I want so will add some reinforcement later to strengthen it. I have also bought ecu and waiting for it to arrive. Went with a Link g4x Xtreme but will be adding a ptmotorsport expander to add a few extra inputs over CAN. Went through a few different configurations on pclink to get what I want to allow future expansion for sensors and gearbox upgrades. Ordered gktech rear arms but looking at the hardrace lower control arms to have some extra adjustment too will see how the alignment looks after first setup. Got 2 more weeks of work before shut down and will have almost 4 weeks to work on this so planning on hopefully firing up mid January. Also bought a 2015 brz with a heap of good gear, did noosa hill climb a month back. Owned it for 3 days changed alignment and sent it. Finished the weekend 2nd in class and only .3 off the 180sx best time last year. MCA Red coilovers, gktech rear lca, bolt on lock kit and tie rods, whiteline toe arms, cusco 1.5way diff and 4.5 ratio, endless brake pads, headers, exhaust, perrin intake and e85 tune. Electronic steering adjustment, nankang crs with koya wheels 17x9 +35. Have bought rear traction arm and relocation kit, extended studs and v3 tie rod kit. Planning on also getting flex tune as lucky to get 300km a tank with e85 and short ratio. Car is a heap of fun to drive and super easy to work on. AC in the line up at Noosa was mint in 35degree weather.5 points
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Recently did the Perth Festival of Speed - and basically what we thought might be an average event turned out to be absolutely awesome they bought Mad Mike and Xtreme over and was good to see Perth get, support and produce something so good - 24,000 people in two days It was nice to have it close to home for once yet have my whole crew there to run the car properly Xtreme got the tin top laps record with 51.57 I hadnt done a hot lap on the home track for 20 months and finally everything clicked and dropped 4 secs off PB and did a 53.29 which is 3rd fastest tin top ever around that track. only 1.3 tenths behind 2nd so should eat that up soon... can I get Xtremes time - its not out of the question Alll the blaa blaa's in the world but if I can replicate even close to that situation on other tracks will be able to make an impact We got asked to do the hill climb to put on a show which in reality is just using some chicanes and the short track at barbs but good fun... launch control was put in and won the Pro class in that also. Car needs some attention after being on it around Australia for last few months moreso the carbon underbody work and just a run through and clean up everything else seems to have held up good enough. Would like ,to take some weight out but that requires alot of effort 😁 Also waiting on new rules for WTAC and have some decisions to be made there and prob some minor modifications to suit pending class changes. Will see... Divided on whether to go hard for one more year or chill out re: events this coming year prob more on the go hard and see if I can get improvements in times. If I didnt have so travel so far it would be less of an issue but I do so hmmm... Also because build thread - gone to flappy paddles and a gearing change with a drop gear. It was becoming apparent that there were situations where I really needed to be hanging onto the wheel with both hands yet had to change gears and was getting a little sketchy and / or I just didnt change gears and delt with it and also 5th gear at 10,000 rpm is 290 kmph so I havent been using 6th as did 282 at WTAC and 274 in Perth drop gear will change to 6th being 300 at 10,000 rpm should also get a touch more acceleration speed5 points
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Hello again, I just want to tell you that i found the reason why my bnr32 is going out in right corners. I had my car tuned by a company and they fitted the Emu Classic and a new fuel pump in 2021. I checked the loom, changed the walbro fuel pump with a Deatschwerks fuel pump. None of this helped. Then I checked the fuel pressure and thought I was crazy. It was tuned with over 7 bar ( over 100psi) !!! But why? So I checked the fuel return line and saw that it was closed. That was probably also the reason why the tuner replaced the fuel pump, but he tuned the Emu with the 7 bar 🫣 The map in the emu has now been changed and evertyhing is fine.5 points
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couple of weeks ago now had a track night at Wanneroo raceway and was super excited but abit apprehensive about the DBW issues, in the meantime i had potted the wiring to the plug as i was informed it can help ensure the TB can live a long and prosperous life and could maybe be the fix to my issues. unfortunately, the night didn't go as planned and the car still had the DBW issues where i had no throttle after either one of the main straights which was extremely frustrating and meant i couldn't put a lap together well at least not one 20 seconds slower than it should so i very sadly packed up and went home. Although pretty confident it's not a wiring issue i was sick to death and pretty embarrassed by the wiring on the car and just wanted to rule it out 100% and ensure i don't have issues with it, I was also pretty keen to give it a go myself and while i wanted to wait until i had my house and some space it needed to be done now. this is an example of the mess of the new mixed with the old that was in place. spent some time planning and tracing all the oem wires and seeing where they go and chopping off everything no longer needed which was great fun and left a nice pile of mess for the bin. ordered all the new wiring, plugs and Raychem needed to complete the new harness and can't wait to dig in and get it done, it won't be no professional concentric twisted motorsport harness but hoping to make it neat light and resistant to all the heat that it could go up against and most importantly reliable.5 points
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Lowest point on the car is 105mm now, so just legal and hopefully high enough to clear After paint, much happier with how it looks Before looked real 😝4 points
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Sounds like you are trying to escape one abusive relationship by getting into an even worse one. It is possible to change your life if you want to4 points
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Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness. A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done. Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well. The old harness for shits and giggles.4 points
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yeah, that happens too. I'm really enjoying 4WDing at the moment, seen a few beautiful spots and want to go explore more of this enormous country. The 370Z got a clutch LSD in it and a track day, great fun. Getting the back end sorted out really rejuvenated my enthusiasm for driving it hard, the viscous one is poo especially in such a short and wide chassis. The VLSD unpredictability was more benign in a long and skinny Skyline.4 points
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A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!4 points
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I'll leave this here Owned it for 5 days, changed alignment and its .7 of a second slower than my 180sx up Noosa hill climb. Mca reds, cusco diff and short ratio, e85, some gktech arms, endless pads and Nankang CRS Tyres. I beat a gt3 porsche with an experienced targa driver too.4 points
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After some googling of various websites IRT the best ride height for correct geometry I ended up going, hub to guard, 330mm in the rear and 345 at the front, these heights came from Flyin' Miata in the states as what they recommend (13" rear, 13.5" front) The rear needed to only come up 5mm, but the front came up 15mm Overall it is around a 25mm drop from OEM ride height, doesn't look all 4x4, and hopefully should be enough height to clear those pesky speed humps I have lost around 0.5° camber on the front, and around 0.2° in the rear, I have no idea about what it did to toe settings so I'll look at a new alignment next week to get it set up how I want, zero rear and a little in at the front I've also stripped the new intake and am currently cleaning and preparing the alloy for some paint, I've headed into work to do it as I can use the ovens in the soils lab to cure the wrinkle paint at 90°c Jackie has banned me from using the oven at home for stuff like this....🤣3 points
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The fact that Hypergear has been posting here for like 10+ years would 100% make me go to him for a turbo upgrade. Glad you got what you wanted from them.3 points
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We've been working on all sort of different types of turbos with majority of work load shifting towards Euros in the last few years. The Skylines are more of a hobbie then a daily, at least its like that in Australia. I will update photos from some of our latest RB jobs. Whats recent is G30 turbine housing externally gated plumb back kit using T3 .83 geninue housing. It can be made to suit G35, G40 and G42 units. External gate optional.3 points
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Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...3 points
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Well I had 2 choices from then on. I either had to (reluctantly) move it on to another potential buyer and take the loss on the chin. Or I stick with it and turn it into a restoration project. I chose the latter. Project Snowstorm began! The frp body kit was the first thing to go. Turns out the original colour used to be silver. The Neo and gearbox were removed, along with the prop and exhaust system before it took a trip to the bodyshop, where I wouldn’t see it again for quite some time due to the pandemic hitting very soon after they took it away. Eventually, progress began and damage assessments made. Even the front chassis leg was in pretty bad shape! Then the chopping commenced. For these guys it was just usual routine, to me it looked absolutely terrifying! More to follow as I’m struggling to focus on my screen at 12:45 am!!!3 points
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Johnny's just upset because he sees that he's spent mutliple BMW money on his dirty Datto over the years and wishes he'd put the money into a stocksbro business prior to the market explosion and then he'd be rolling in BMWs, dead hookers and coke.3 points
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Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆3 points
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Most people that build big powered RB, are always building big powered RBs 🥲3 points
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Is it a Prius or a race car? We are here to make power and have fun not drive grandma to bingo3 points
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For that influx of Spammers we had I made no pic posting and no PM's for first ten posts. This is group based and I've manually updated @Beanie to the Members group which will open up the images and PM's.3 points
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There are a few variables here, some are relevant but not critical (IMHO) to help answer your question. The two major things: 1) Ignoring anything to do with forced induction - all engines have their own natural torque curve, and it will ALWAYS roll over higher in the rpm. There is a fixed relationship between power and torque. When dealing with kw and nm, the relationship between them is roughly: kw = (rpm * nm) / 9549 nm = (kw / rpm) * 9549 The peak torque of an engine (without boost) will typically climb until somewhere nearish the middle of it's operating rev range, give or take a bit - then start dropping again. The nearer the minimum and maximum rpm of the engine the steeper that drop off tends to be. 2) Boost simply increases the density of the air going into the engine, which inflates the torque at that point. The ramp up in the torque curve you see on a turbo engine is due to the boost rising, but it's essentially just multiplying the torque you'd see if it was naturally aspirated. The roll over you see at the end will typically be what would have always happened with the engine, whether it was naturally aspirated or turbocharged. If the torque never started dropping then power would climb infinitely. The cool thing about this is you absolutely can tune the power delivery to suit the needs of the owner and/or the limitations of the car, and I regularly do this. With modern turbos we've got to the point where a setup that someone may run well over 20psi of boost with could actually reach target boost well under 4000rpm if the tuner/owner WANTED to - and a lot of people seem to do this when there is actually no realistic benefit, generally it just adds a massive amount of strain to the engine and drivetrain and often actually makes the car harder to drive. As a general rule I tend to tune the boost curves for cars I tune to reach a "useful" torque level through the rev range and will often end up with a curve that ramps hard to a point, then creeps for the rest of the rev range - not to make the boost curve "soft" as such, but more to make sure its neither laggy nor pointlessly violent in it's delivery. There have been cars I've tuned to be almost like a centrifugal supercharger (or naturally-aspirated-ish) where they actually only hit like 8psi of boost before opening the gate, then ramp up the next 10psi over the rev range... if the car is "loose enough" to drive. On the flip side I've tuned a car that had stock cams and the engine's natural torque curve fell over HARD in the higher rpm and resulted in a slightly awkward power curve to work with, in that case I actually started ramping up boost to boost torque in a way to offset the engines "NA" torque drop off... at peak rpm actually running a good 5psi+ more boost that what the "flat curve" would have defined. This gave the owner an extra 500rpm or so of useable rev range, and had a fairly solid impact on times he was running at motorsport events due to being able to hold gears a bit longer and also falling into a more useful part of the rev range in the following gears. Here's an example of an RB in a GTSt I've done the "softened" boost curve to not pointlessly ramp straight to the max boost target early in the rpm, but still made sure it builds useful boost. If you went in the car you'd not guess at all that the boost curve was doing anything "weird", it feels like it spools immediately and accelerates relentlessly (traction dependent) and holds to max rpm. I don't know if you'd guess what the boost curve was doing by driving the car, or even looking at the dyno plot... but imho it suits the combination.3 points
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3 points
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My 6 Point FIA harness have arrived (kinda). There was a mix up from the supplier and I ended up with 3" set rather than the 2" set. I contacted them and their customer service was top notch. It is being resolved and 2" ones will be on their way to be soon but in the mean time I was able to at least mock them up in the car to see the vibes. Need to organise some fixed back seats so i can actually use them as a 6 point. I am leaning towards the Velo Podium II XLs as I like the look of the bolstering compared to the GP90 XL or GPT2. The side and thigh bolstering on the GP90/GPT feels less that my existing Bride Digo R recliner. Velo Podium II XL Velo GP90 XL Velo GPT23 points
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Tow hooks fit neatly in the factory holders front and rear, easier than bodging something up myself. Hopefully I'll never have to test if they can hold the whole car's weight like Mark did on his 32 back in the day...3 points
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Wheels: Work VS-XX F: 18x8.5 +28 r-disc 235/40/18 R: 18x9.5 +32 a-disc 255/40/18 Regarding the fronts: I'm not sure if I needed to get r-disc since there's about 1/2inch 2/3inch gap between the R34 GTT brakes and the wheel. Fitment: I would say it is almost perfect. The fronts could be a bit more aggressive though. No camber adjustment, just lowered.3 points
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Wow its been a while since Ive signed in for sure. Time gets away... Good question. So much was different between the two designs. The RB315 was a test to see if I could do it. Limitations were for the most part due to local machining capability. Tolerances were an issue. The 3.15 used a single OD dry sleeve, and was almost the same as a kakimoto spacer plate engine, except I used a plate design similar to the OS Giken plate. I did not make the top flanges thick enough either. I can't be sure if it was machining tolerances, or thermal distortion of the sleeves, but the engine did produce quite a bit of blow by. The modified 87mm RB30 crank was also an issue, and was no where near as nicely balanced as the forged 90mm crank in the 3.4. The 34 was a next level build. The sleeves were stepped for max thickness, and were a semi-wet design breaking though into coolant completely in the block. Minimum thickness was 3.75mm and max was 5mm with the 90mm bore, and the new spacer plate also fully supported the tops of the sleeves closed deck style. This combined with far superior CNC machining, and a cylinder hone finish that the machinist does on 3000hp pro stock cars resulted in no noticeable blow by at all. In the end the 3.15 was removed to swap in the 3.4. I discovered the modified RB30 crank had partially sheared the woodruff key on the balancer. That was all that was wrong with it, but it did make the engine a paperweight at that stage. $1100 to make another crank for an engine with blow by issues was not worth it, considering I'd started playing with all Nitto forged internals instead. I hope you found this interesting. Cheers, Ian3 points
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Christmas came early this year … titanium piping ready for installation … IMG_5349.mov2 points
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Damn, it's at night. Should do a morning Royal National Park Sunday cruise one day. I'll take the shit box out and take my son for a drive. He likes hearing dose, suuuututuuturuuuututu lol.2 points
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Maybe, but HKS' laughably expensive advanced heritage intake system (1.5M yen, listed by USA dealers at 15k USD) was sold out almost immediately and I'm not sure they ever re-opened orders for it. That's the kind of money that gets you a new block and head these days and people are spending it on benefits that boil down to "the twin turbos aren't quite as garbage as before".2 points
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I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)2 points
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Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛2 points
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49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.2 points
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It may not be relevant to your situation, but when I had the issue of air getting into the system on my GTT, I found there was a tiny hole in the aluminium cooling pipe. Enough for air to be drawn in, just not enough to cause a significant leak. Looked like the previous owner had chosen a bad place to attach the earth clamp of his welder and tried to mask this with a piece of mesh sleeving 🙄2 points
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I go back to, skip the concrete, we just need smooth dirt/grass... You weld us up one of those huge take like things you buy at Bunnings for spreading dirt nicely, except we'll tow it behind a car instead of push by hand. 😛2 points
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Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).2 points
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Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.2 points
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2 points
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Broken actuator rod. Could be one of a couple of them broken. Or, it's locked and the central locking actuator is broken/stuck or the actuator rods between it, the lock and the key barrel are jammed or broken similarly. You'll probably need a locksmith/mechanic who is experienced with using slim tools to reach down next to the window glass to manipulate the mechanism. That's assuming that it is not so severely jammed/broken that nothing useful will move.2 points
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Only took me 2.5 months to respond to the password reset email.. Haven't been regular on here since I sold the R34 GTT and bought a 370Z. Also added a GU Patrol (CRD ZD30) 18 months ago to go places that would upset the 370Z. They're both great fun, I certainly do miss having an RB though.2 points
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I know a few guys that buy/sell through USS auctions here in Tokyo, well Chiba. Not that hard actually. Be happy to help if anyone needs.2 points
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Heres more pics!! Notice the Yellow AutoSelect R34!!! Another massive highlight!! If anyone watched the old High Octane videos, then you will know. IMG_0099.mov IMG_0095.mov IMG_0099.mov IMG_0103.mov IMG_0109.mov IMG_0148.mov IMG_0170.mov IMG_0169.mov IMG_0213.mov IMG_0212.mov IMG_0227.mov IMG_0225.mov2 points
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For sale is my 2002 VX SS LS1 Commodore $30,000 ono 160k km Located at Holsworthy 2173, NSW Extremely clean car and well maintained I have receipts for all work done, and I've had alot of work done, and more money spent than I care to remember on the build Car makes around 500hp at 7 psi Harrop 2300 supercharger with FI induction interchiller installed and tuned by Autotech Engineering Mild cams, and PAC valve springs Automatic 4l60e transmission was built by Craig's Automatics Harrop Truetrac LSD with 3.46 gears Ceramic coated 4: headers, 4" exhaust with Varex rear box RaceTCS traction control Engine serviced every 5k km, transmission serviced yearly, diff serviced every 10k km Some spares and parts will be included There's lots of other stuff done over the years I've owned it, like new brakes, coilovers, starter motor, sound proofing, head unit with reverse camera, alarm, just check out the "Bogan Cruise Ship" build thread for everything that has been done and specs of parts used, apologies for all the other random stuff in the build thread, there's a few cars, and a bike in there, but, if you scroll past the non relevant stuff there's all the work done Car is currently stored undercover at my work, you will need to have a current driver's licence to get signed onto site to view the car as it is a secured site and I will need to sign you in through security Any test drives will be within this site I'll post up more pictures next week after I service it and detail the car 20231108_170005.mp4.7b8746d1a41f6d4a6fe0b64232f506ab.mp4 No I don't want to swap it for anything If your serious about looking for one of these, check out the others available, then come look at this, then we can negotiate PM me for further details and timings2 points
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You need to visit Ipswich. Plenty of clapped out R32 and R33s running around here as daily drivers. And when I say clapped out, they're how you'd look at a VN, when it's the year 2010...2 points
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After a long gtr break and trying to buy back my original th1 gtr with no luck I had put dreams of owning another behind me. On Monday a guy walks into my workshop asking if Scott was there as I had sold him car years ago. As I was a car dealer for a few years I thought "here we go..." . We both didn't recognise each other (as it's been 10 years) I asked which car ? It was the th1 gtr! Anyway guy was in financial trouble and it's stretch for me but it's back home...he found me as he remembered I said I was going to buy a workshop in macarthur area and my Facebook page for my business looked like cars I might build. He drove from Bankstown to appin on a hunch ... glad he did. Anyway I'm back 20240308_104731.heic20240308_104731.heic 20240308_104952.mp4 20240308_104731.heic 20240308_105047.heic2 points
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My apologies @Harley80 I forgot about what @GTSBoysaid. I have fixed this for your account now so you can upload images.2 points
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"Rattle rattle shriek crunch", could really be RB26 Engines though...2 points
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I'm a frustrated audiophile. My "listening room" is also the big TV/movie room. So the stereo speakers are also the front pair for the surround. They are Ascension Summoners, by Adelaide Speakers. The guy who runs Adelaide Speakers designed and built for a couple of the renowned speaker manufacturers that were based in SA back in the day. The centre channel ends up looking a lot like yours. It's the same driver setup as this type But I got him to put them into a sideways oriented cab the same size as the side/rears I got. The fronts are flat down to ~20Hz, so I don't have a sub. This is all driven by a very high end Pioneer receiver - so nice but nothing special. And worse, because the fronts can draw so much power at high volume levels, the bloody amp goes into self protection and shuts down if you turn it up too high. 8 ohm nominal can easily mean 6 and modern consumer oriented amplifiers are not as well reinforced on the supply side as they could be. I keep meaning to do something about it, but somewhat like my earlier obsession with DSLRs and Lenvy, I actively resisted dropping more money in there until the urge decreased. If I keep listening to music at really high volume levels I'll just cut more notches in my hearing anyway. They one at 6kHz is bad enough - I need to behave myself now.2 points
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