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PB the karnt, then lost an IC clamp. Was also warned about go sideways 😂 He said he understands the track is hot and tyres let go in the heat. Called it a day 4th session, came on the throttle on Lap 2 and lost boost. No idea where the passenger side IC Bluetoothed to, and it was getting quite hot so called it quits. Waited for the other boys then we ended up at the pub for 3 hours lol. My mate in the R33 shit box managed a 59s on his first track experience at Luddenham.

I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well

I went back in today (I just wander into the body shop on a 2 week interval now). Hmmm. Slowly but surely! Various other parts around the place done/half done/inside done but outside yet to do, etc. Still have no real idea as to what colour this car is, just like all the BMW's I saw online (and in person). Just looks a different shade of colour from any angle at any picture taken of it. The differing levels of dust obviously do not help.

Been needing a new clutch for a while, but holding off because of life tingz and adulting. But... Being of Asian descent, I can't pass on a good sale, especially everyone else is selling it for $2k+ (JJR has it for $1799). Really on the fence on this one, because the unsprung version of this is $1281 via Shitbox (Sparesbox) and the sprung version is quite a bit more (no idea why Shitbox doesn't offer them). Ending up just sending it and getting the twin sprung organic. Mainly because I wanted the car to be nice to drive and didn't want to make it more of a shitbox than it already is.

Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on. The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.

Update time! The JZX110 had some maintenance needing to be done, so a lot of the seals with replaced to fix some oil leaks. Also used this opportunity to whack on a front mount that I'd bought some time ago. I also finally got the rear lip painted and fitted. I then got the exhaust done. It's just a catback for now. Custom made 3" stainless with a turn down. I could have a tip coming out, but it will require cutting the rear lip and possibly the bumper itself. So far I do like and it's made the car a little more zippy. Close out with some nice pictures of the cars and a sneak peek of what's next.

The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p

And my some what great lap, well great in a sense I beat my old time Enjoy the dose.

Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising But now, because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪

Hi everyone, I've found some free time to write up my "build thread" which is 10% 'build' and 90% fixing problems of a skyline that has endured a lifetime of abuse. I will start with the backstory & get everyone up to speed. Ever since I was just a teenager in high school I have had a spot in my heart for the shape of an R32 rivaled only by the look of an S13, my mates & I all having overly ambitious dreams as one does about having the sickest car in the school carpark. Unfortunately I started my journey of cars down the path of the Silvia and after spending years of putting up with the underwhelming SR20 life I dipped my toes into the 1J Toyota pool for a small moment until my true compass brought me back to that incomplete dream of an R32. At this point the trawl through marketplace, gumtree, carsales etc. starts looking Aus wide for an affordable example in the current economy which was extremely barebones compared to the good old days of sub 10k cars everywhere. Out of the handful of cars in the budget at the time I settled on a 1992 R32 GTS-T that was located in Adelaide. It had caught my eyes as it was similar price to the others on the east coast and had been RB25DET NEO converted and an open door respray in a custom colour based off TH1. It was also a stand out to me because it already had some NSW registration left which saved me the hassle of getting it on the road in my state. As for mods I was told it was pretty stock other than the motor swap, a nistune to run it, and an unknown fuel pump. My first mistake was trusting the seller blindly that the car was in good condition in all aspects and decided to purchase the car unseen other than some walkaround videos & pictures as the flights down there were very expensive at the time. The price of getting it transported to my door from Adelaide from Sydney was surprisingly cheaper than the flights at the time. I was told the few issues it apparently had was only 1 speaker not working, some cracked or missing trims, and it had been rear ended at some point but had been all professionally repaired (this is all foreshadowing at this point). I paid for the car, and then booked the interstate transport. Now at this point save your criticism as I already know how stupid I sound in hindsight, this was a major lapse of judgement and I accept the problems that followed. I spent the next 2 weeks in a crazed excitement knowing I am finally the owner of an R32 & that it was on its way. I started preparing as when negotiating with the seller I opted out of the Lenso wheels as they aren't really my style & I wanted a set of genuine wheels, and the bucket seats in the car as I am 6ft5 and not the skinniest guy so I had my predictions that I wouldn't fit in them anyway. Due to this the car was put on a set of R33 stockies and some average condition R33 seats that he had laying around. While I waited for the car to arrive I went and picked up a pair of R32 seats and some R32 GTR wheels to fit nicely on it once it had arrived. Being the first time I had done anything like this or had a car transported interstate I had no clue how the logistics of it were, I chose my work as the delivery address assuming it would arrive at some point in the middle of the day. You can imagine my surprise when I wake up to a call from the truck at 5:30am telling me his about 20 minutes away. When I tell you that was the fastest drive to work I have ever done, I managed to catch up to the truck before it even got there. Spent the hours before work taking in the car and living my first experience with one, I had never even been inside one so I spent some time getting familiar with the interior before doing the seat swap. Here is my first proper photo of it as the sun rose in the background. I also noticed it had the switch for the electronic front lip which was a pleasant surprised but sadly upon looking it didn't actually have the lip or the motors or even any wiring behind the switch. As I swapped the seats, the extremely questionable history of the car started to show itself starting with some really dodgy seatbelt buckles that had been extended for some reason with horrendous welds. This was followed by me noticing the drivers side front was quite bent up to which the owner then decided to let me know it had been hit in the front at the same time as the rear end. It also had a pretty leaky power steering rack and the pump was screaming for its life. By now I was a little on edge but I had to get to work for the day, I sent the car down to my mechanic to get the fluids changed and a general check over as I started to question what I had got myself into. I packed the GTR wheels into the car to get put on while it was there as I ran out of time which was a struggle because the handle to release the fuel door/boot was non-existent and just had the end of the cable tied to a bolt. It wasn't much of a surprise when I got a call saying that it looked like the fluids hadn't been done in quite some time. Although that didn't come as a shock, it did catch me off guard when I was told he couldn't open the boot which had the wheels in which I just had open not long before. Mission #1 was to squeeze through the back panel and open the boot from the latch while loaded with a set of wheels which to my amazement he pulled off after a bit of a struggle to reveal there was nothing holding the cable mechanism in place where it sits at the fuel cap. After that dilemma was solved the mechanic did an inspection over the car while on the hoist with nothing too interesting being found other than the expected crushed frame rails. It seems to have had some bilstein shocks installed at some point and judging by the AWD sump that has been sealed up I suspect the NEO is out of a stagea. By the time I got the car back and was ready to have my first drive home in it I was still excited but now quite anxious with the car already. First stop was to the servo to get a nice fresh tank of fuel as I had no idea how long it may have been sitting around for before I bought it. It sat quite nicely on the GTR stockies I must say. Now my drive home from work is short only being a 15-20 minute commute so the chances of anything going wrong is quite small right? WRONG. As I go over a speed bump only 100m from home I start to smell the dreaded smell of electrical burning and my lights drop out and shortly after the car dies. I am in extreme panic at this point thinking the car is going to burn down on its first drive before I have even had a chance to insure it. I move to the bonnet as quick as I can and lift it up, and as I go to grab the bonnet prop my brain is in such a frenzy that it takes me a second to realise my hand is being burnt to a crisp. This is where I notice that there is no plastic clip for the bonnet stay and when I have gone over the speed bump it has knocked the stay onto the positive terminal of the battery welding itself there. Levering it off with a nearby stick I sat there for a few minutes making sure nothing was going to burn down while waiting for a mate to come jump start me. My main stress was that I could've absolutely cooked the ECU or any other electrics. I was relieved when the car started fine with jumper leads on it but it would die as soon as the headlights were turned on so I carefully limped it home with no lights and decided it was a tomorrow task. You can see here where the stand sat on the positive terminal. Thankfully with a new battery the car behaved and seemed healthy. It was pretty smooth sailing for a little while getting to enjoy dailying the car. Interior wise it was pretty much as the seller described except for the the lack of working speakers, the digital controls had no power, and the headunit would randomly turn off & on. I installed a quick release I had laying around from an old car to help with getting in & out of the car and a nice momo wheel. I bought some oem side skirts to match the rear pods that were on the car already, who said a skyline can't be a practical parts mover. Test fit looks good! Found a good deal on a GTR wing & boot that I couldn't turn down. At this point the skyline was being too good to me and had to throw the spanner in the works again. First incident was as I was coming off the motorway and heard a bang and an awful grinding noise. As I pull over down a side street to investigate I notice my whole exhaust has basically fallen off and is dragging on the ground. After waiting around to let it cool to the touch I managed to get it back on its hangers. Thinking it was a weird 1-off instance I didn't think much of it until it happened to me again a few days later to which I see this time the middle hanger has snapped in half and the rear hangers have snapped at the welds. I manage to get the car in to a shop to get the hangers welded and while there I notice that my intercooler has broken its brackets and was being held up only by the piping. Quickly got that sorted and got some thicker brackets out of steel plate to support it all. Just when you thought at this point the car might give me a break, I fill the car up on my way home from the fabricators shop and after I pay I walk back to a good portion of my liquid gold on the floor. I just shrug it off at this point in exhaustion and call it a job for another day. The car had other plans for me though as the next morning on my commute to work, I am halfway there when I notice I am struggling to shift gears. I get lucky with a run of no red lights to work and find some time on my lunch break to investigate the problem. The slave wasn't leaking and the master still had fluid so I was left confused until I contorted myself under the dash and noticed the whole pedal moving loosely side to side when pushed in. Upon pulling it out of the car I found it to be multiple snapped spot welds on the clutch pedal bracket and the actual face of the pedal that sits against the firewall had snapped in half. I jerry rigged it with nuts & bolts at the spot welds but I will need to come back to this in the future and replace with one of the strengthened nismo brackets available. I then got to enjoy the car for another 2 months of cruising and dailying it, peep the obnoxious fireballs it would shoot every shift on the dodgy tune that was on there. On a sunday drive in that period of working car, I was on my way home on the motorway when I heard a slapping noise on my front left to which I pulled over to find my indicator had ejected itself from the car. Nothing a bit of tape can fix lol. I then bought some smoked indicators but after I realised I didn't like the look I found some damaged series 1 indicators. I repaired the tabs with some cut up cards and they looked good to me. My next venture was the hunt for some wheels, I test fit my mates Work Equip Spinning that were tiny 15" and I wasn't sold on the small wheel look. I ended up finding a killer deal on some Rays Volk Racing Group C in 17x8.5 & 17x9 that had been rebuilt many years ago and not ran on a car. I am still yet to get these on the car as they require some specific adapters and shank style lug nuts but I think they will look awesome. At this point my 2 months of reliability had ran out and on a cruise with some friends I suddenly lost the ability to shift gears again and thankfully could get it home by taking main roads and not having to stop. This time my master cylinder was bone dry and the culprit was the clutch slave that had decided to let go. It was a quick and fairly easy fix, but in my luck bad things always come in waves. Only a few weeks later I am on my way home from World Time Attack when the car completely shuts off while coasting down a hill, I try crank it while I still have momentum but no luck. Thinking I might have killed the fuel pump from running it low or maybe killed a CAS because the symptoms seemed to line up somewhat, I opt to get the car towed to a workshop to get fixed up on the Monday. When it gets there they get stuck into diagnosis and the CAS wasn't sending a signal to the ECU, and the fuel pump was also dead so it was comical for a small moment there. They replace the dead fuel pump when one of them notices some smoke coming from the passenger kick panel. Boy oh boy this is where it gets very bad and very expensive. I am not sure who wired the car when the NEO swap was done originally but I hope they never attempt auto electrical again as I am lucky that this handywork only managed to short and kill the ecu and engine loom and not do more damage. This is the point where you could say the 'build' started but not by choice. After some deliberation with my bank account I opted for a Haltech Elite 2500, RB terminated loom, and WB1. While I wish I stopped there and did the minimum of get the car running and leave it at that, I slipped into the rabbithole and decided I wanted to make the most of getting a retune and throw some bolt ons at it and see what it would do. I then threw together a bit of a mix n match build of marketplace deals starting with a GCG GTX3076R, a turbosmart FPR6, 980cc injectors, walbro 460, jackspanian ffp, throttle & fuel rail. At this point it was coming along nicely, the shop was making quick work of it and the bay was looking a lot nicer without the stock crossover intake. I also got them to replace the noisy centre bearing while it was off the road. Then we couldn't get an OEM CAS to talk to the haltech so ended up getting a PRP Street Trigger Kit for it. While the car wasn't playing nice it decided to kill the stock alternator too so went with an LS1 alternator conversion kit. By now the car was pretty much done and ready to go but come tune day the car kept throwing the timing out every time it would warm up. Upon further investigation it seemed to be warping the PRP trigger bracket when the metal would get hot and expand which would cause the sensor to lose timing as it moves. Herman advised that they have seen the issue a few times now and don't know what the cause is. At this point I decided to switch to the PRP Pro kit with the crank trigger and considering the whole timing belt would have to come off I decided to get a new timing belt kit with water pump fitted. The car would now run fine with no issues and it was finally tune time. It ran up a healthy 275kw but ran out of boost due at 17psi to the rear housing being undersized. At this point the clutch also started slipping and due to it still being a weak RB20 box the tuner set it up to ramp from 8psi up to 17psi with the revs so that it wouldn't load up the clutch and box as hard. Car drives like a dream now. With the car back on the road I could return my focus to the smaller details, starting with getting a set of badges for the hood and quarters. I was struggling to drive with shoes on and I noticed that my accelerator pedal sits higher than my brake and clutch, if someone could confirm how it should sit that would be great. Next little changes was a killallwipers rear windscreen wiper delete, I also got some interior bits I was missing such as parcel shelf speaker covers, wiper trim cover, and boot floor and trims. Finally made it to a SAU NSW event which was awesome to cruise with a bunch of likeminded individuals. Another creature comfort I decided to look into was my lack of A/C. Since the Haltech got wired up the digital climate would power up now, and would blow but no cold air. First issue noticed was the lack of belt on the A/C compressor. After sorting that to no avail, it also had no A/C gas in it, but turns out the condenser has a huge leak. We are almost caught up on the story so far, but at the start of this month while coming into a driveway I heard a huge clunk in the front end to which I got out to witness whatever dodgy camber arms someone installed in this at some point decided to snap in half and I feel very lucky that it didn't happen at speed. Managed to get the car fixed the next day with some replacement GKtech arms. Next problem to address was the leaking gas tank from months ago. Checked the pump hanger seal first but that was fine, stuck my camera up after filling up to try scope out the leak which looked like the breather hose. Got the car up on a hoist prepared to drop the tank when I reached up to feel with my hand and I could feel that the hose clamp was missing and soon after felt that there was a gaping hole in the top of the hose. Replaced and tested and the car holds its liquid now and doesn't give me a fume headache whenever I drive it now. Finally have caught up and now onto fixing my latest issue which is the lack of dash light when driving at night, checked fuses first, then when searching I found the common problem of the headlight switch burning out but mine looks fine. Next test will be plugging a known working headlight switch into my car to tell if my switch is dead. Sorry for the long read but I wanted to be thorough, so if anyone made it this far I salute you soldier. Enjoy the rest of your day and I will keep this updated with issues I find/solve and any cool mods I can do inbetween. Merry Xmas!

I bought the 1/18 scale celica and nsx from Justin and they are very detailed and good quality. I will definitely be interested in others in the series as they come out

How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!

NSX. Nobody can really argue any other and not be ridiculed. Come on. Get serious. I vote the R Chassis as the most 'distinctive' or 'iconic' or what have you.

From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm). Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer. 20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get. Make sure they're zinc plated. If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971. Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price. New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama). Same thread but 16mm long.

Thread is a bit old but figured id give my input anyway just incase. Have had lots of water problems in my R32 and was getting sick of wet tools in the boot and water filling up half my taillights. I ended up finding that whenever my car had been repainted they didn't reseal the taillights to the body of the car so water was just flowing straight into the boot, this is amplified by all the water around the bootlid being directed down to the taillights so would get pretty wet whenever I washed the car or it rained. You could probably use silicone to seal them to the body but I think from factory they use a roll of automotive grade butyl rubber. Hopefully this helps you if that ends up being how the water is getting in on your car!

That’s racist

Right, so God, it's been nearly 12 months since my last confession.... The main confession is I'm a horrible car modifier (amongst other things). Obviously the pool was a massive distraction for the entirety of last year but really doesn't excuse me for doing nothing at all on the car for this year. To be honest this year was a mental break to get over the extreme mental torment and pressure I put myself through putting the pool in! It really was a slog. The pool is still not completely finished but it might never be.... The kids love it and the wifey and I love it so mission success! I have spent a grand total of 30 minutes working on the car since when I commenced on the pool. I just have not had a spare brain cell to be able to focus on it. The thought of working on it just seems abhorrent to be honest. My heart is just not into it. Yet..... What I have done is decide that I'm a clown to not paint ALL of the underside of the car while I'm at it. Originally I was stopping at the start of the rear subframe to then "get back to it later on once I'm ready". Let's be honest, later on might never happen so may as well keep diving in! I'm already balls deep so may as well go a bit deeper! So...... I've just purchased a hydraulic scissor lift table to be able to take the rear subframe out as a whole unit without having to dick around with jack stands rolling around on the ground. Us 6' 8" blokes don't operate well at ground level! One of these- Anyway, will the investment in an expensive tool that I'll probably only ever use for one job motivate me to crack on? Only time will tell..... Wish me luck!

I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁

We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc. We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning.

I would again like too thank Matt for his help in me sourcing the detachable hard top for the little red car, without Matt's assistance in inspecting it and locking it down, I can guarantee it would have sold before I could get up to see it, and as that was the only available NC hardtop in Australia, I consider myself extremely lucky on multiple levels To say I'm more that happy would be an understatement And, it is 100% water tight, I drove through torrential rain coming back south, and by torrential, they type of rain that doing 40kph in a 110kph zone was a real thing, and even then, the standing water on the Hwy was deep enough to throw waves I'm also more than happy that the huge "BEASTS" that Matt calls dogs didn't eat me for lunch, I'm sure the sniffs and licks were more to "taste test" me, over being to friendly Now to work out what colour to get it painted, panel match, or gloss black........first world problems are real

You mean the Skyline?

at the very least you could use it as a mobile diving platform at the pool

Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON. I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years. I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway. Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it. At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.

I daily mine, have done so for 25 years. But I do not participate in the "car scene" outside of here. I don't like hanging out with the "car scene" very much. Too much yobbo, too much exposure (to yobbos, cops, etc).

I would say that 1200s are only good for about 500rwkW (at close to 100% DC). That's with a standard (for Australia, braked roller dyno) discount of 25% from engine power. Dose's 1480 should be good for a bit less than 650 rwkW, which aligns very very nicely with his ~70% duty at 437rwkW. I get within about +/-5rwkW of 635 approaching the calc from either end.

Last one.

Even more.

Some more.

Some snaps from the cruise.

Car would be very knock limited on pump 98 fuel, this is also why lots of old school turbos has such a massive turbine end to drive a small compressor. Overall a decent result for pump fuel,

In the US the EPA has been going after shops that sold aftermarket ECU tuning software that allowed you to disable CELs for things like EGR, DPF, SCR, or TWC failure. They also went after shops for selling emissions delete equipment. Their logic is that all cars built for street use have this emissions equipment and you cannot do an after the fact conversion to an off-road vehicle not intended for street use. Cobb, Hondata, and similar companies have basically all revised their tuning software such that going forward you cannot suppress DTCs for emissions-critical systems, nor can you toggle systems on and off in the tune like EGR. You also cannot adjust OBD emissions monitoring logic. You can still tune these cars. But you have to do things the hard way, basically. For example Subaru FA20DITs used to delete the TGV system to get spare analog IO for a flex fuel sensor. EGR also has to be dramatically pared back because without the TGVs the stock EGR map causes bad misfires. Now instead they have to implement the flex fuel system as a CAN bus sensor instead. IMO, this is heavy-handed but the EPA in the US gave so much leeway for so long and the aftermarket relentlessly abused that leeway to the point that they could actually see the effects of all these emissions-deleted work trucks on their air quality monitoring for cities that haven't met Clean Air Act standards. It's one thing to have a few people deleting emissions on their weekend car that spends 9 months out of the year on jack stands. It's another thing entirely for entire fleets of tradies driving around 8 hours a day on deleted diesels that emit 1000x the emissions per mile of a compliant vehicle.

Thanks @GTSBoy & @Duncan you legends! I got it back on. Moving the bolt out of the j arm which allowed me to swing it gave heaps of room to put the strut in. Unbolted the sway bar to and put it on last.

Brother, nope, I've watched a "documentary" that proves otherwise

Spotted a Lancia Fulvia Sport Zagato Competizione on the street today

Give Fabian from Level Up Audio a call. He can sort you out. They are based in Bibra Lake.

So....I managed to fix the belt coming off problem, but unfortunately i destroyed my oil pump. While testing and hitting my rev limiter a bunch, my oil pump took a shit. I actually heard it break. In my great wisdom i decided to hit redline 5 times (original plan). Lowered it to 7500 for the soft limiter. Normally it would come off on the first go. The 6th time I hit the limiter the pump broke and as i began accelerating again and hit it the 7th time, oil pressure dropped and the protection kicked in. It actually made a "tink" as if i dropped something hollow. The motor is pulled and should be rebuilt and put back in 3 weeks. No bearings were spun and i could have gotten away with simply replacing the pump, but since i had to pull the motor....might as well build it I made a billet tensioner and the belt stayed on without getting frayed. I also made one for a friends R33, but I was thinking of using a hydraulic unit to keep constant pressure on it when the belt stretches.

2 legitimate street and one carpark with some variety.

Fark this... mental health day it is tomorrow. Booked Luddenham lol Is the clutch fked? yep Do I need to fix that in tank venturi? yep Will I do any of the above? No

I found the same with Subaru’s. I own and love the SG9 Forester, after that model 2008+, Subaru threw the ugly stick at all their line up and somehow managed to make them look worse with every succeeding year. lol

It's something we all have to consider as time marches on. Also consider lifted rally MX5 conversion at that point.

I should be fine for a few more years, whilst I do have arthritis I also exercise and do mobility training every day to keep as fit and healthy as I can, military life, which is the actual cause of most of my joint issues, has set daily regimes, which I weirdly enjoy I also train alot smarter now, not really focusing on lots strength or puffy muscles, I'm more focused on maintaining what I have for my future older self, I actually train as much mobility now as I do exercising Check out this "simple" drill I have been doing daily prior to training now for a while now, this has worked wonders in my all round mobility

I get into huffs with people when I suggest the MX5 looks so much better as a coupe than it does as convertible. Pretty sure I don't prefer the convertible version of anything. Good job on the hardtop! The next buyer will appreciate.

ITS ALL LIES FROM BIG OIL!

Ok I thought my allow had a flat back but it does have grooves for the spacer nut/ no cutting needed bolt and nut sticking out from the spacer around 12mm and the groove is around 24mm so all good appreciate the help chaps

Brilliant. Thanks. I'd hate to ruin my rugged good looks.

Start by replacing the bushing and shifter cup. Two plastic pieces in the OEM shift mechanism that can wear out and cause these problems. It's like 15 USD from Amayama before shipping. You can replace with aftermarket brass bushings but personally I was fine with OEM. The stock shifter working properly doesn't feel like there's any real problems with it.

Take it from a Chemical Engineer. It will be just fine.

A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!

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