Wobbz

Firstly, f**k you. Your car looks f**king mint, and now I don't want to sell my silver 32 4-door.... -_- As for the rims, go the penny... or personally, I'd paint the centres black... much easier to maintain... cleaning brake dust out of spokes is a real pain in the arse. Oh, and surely you can rip that 20 out? everyone knows the best cheap upgrade for a 20 is a 25 I'll be following your build, keep up the good work mate.

Hey mate, can you find out the specs of the cams for me? Interested... PS. you're not the Drew that sold me a red 32 GT-r rolling shell a few years back are you? if so, they're actually for that car haha Cheers, Christian

Cheers for the advice mate, worked out what it was though! The diaphragm in the fuel pressure reg must be split, as fuel is making it's way down the vacuum line, which connects to the manifold near cylinders 1 & 2... so i'll be changing that out in the morning, should be right then! Obviously during off-boost it's under vacuum, drawing fuel into the manifold, then while it's pressurised under boost, it's keeping most of the fuel out!

Hey peoples... Long story short, bought a GTR a while back, missing an engine. Got that sorted, with a rebuilt 26 (basic rebuild... head cleaned with new stem seals, re-honed bores, new bearings, rings etc etc.). Anyhow, that's gone in, but now some nasty problem seems to have reared it's head... the damn thing misfires at low/medium throttle, at revs below about 3 grand. Now, the last owner must have had some type of nasty race gas in the tank, or some additive, as it sat in the driveway for about a year and half before the new engine just recently went in. Basically, whatever was in the tank, completely f*cked the bosch 044 that was in there (it was seized, and covered in yellow flakes... almost looked like sulphur?), and turned most of the rubber lines into a gooey mess. Needless to say, the tank copped a clean out, and a new pump (small Walbro) and rubber lines were installed, along with trying to flush any possible crap out of the steel lines, if it was in there. So, now i'm stuck with the missfiring issue... after installing fresh plugs, it'll start missfiring shortly after on one or two cylinders at low rpm (ie. idle till about 3 thousand revs). The missfiring seems to disappear as the car comes onto boost (~2800-3000rpm), and it'll pull hard to redline with no real issues at all. We've been pulling off the new fuel filter, and cleaning it out with air compressor, and sometimes *really really* fine black particles will come out, almost like fine bits of vaporised rubber which may have been still left in the tank/steel lines? Anyhow, after going through a couple sets of plugs today, I've found that it's cylinders 1 & 2 that are running pig rich, coming out completely sooted up after only 5 minutes of going for a spin... so this leads me to believe it's more likely to be an ignition issue, with plugs not being the answer. I've tried cleaning the original platinum's that were in there (NGK, 7's), tried my mates NGK iridiums (5's), and then tried the current NGK coppers (BCPR7ES). All were gapped to 0.7mm. So, I'm guessing its one of the following: Knock Sensors Coils Crank angle sensor Ignitor module I'm going to test the coils, CAS, and ignitor tommorow, as I've got a spare set in my 32 GTS-t to play with... but does anyone else have any ideas?! I've had coils die in the past, but it appears that usually when they die, they missfire under boost/higher RPM? This is basically the inverse of that... Oh, and I can rule out the airflow meters, well, at least for now... I borrowed a set of very good condition ones, which are known to work flawlessly. While they made the car run *slightly* better, it didn't fix the issue... i guess they're just slightly better condition Another mechanic suggested i try running this green fuel additive called "Fuel Set" to try and clear any shit out of my tank/lines? anyone have any experience with this? Sorry for the long read peoples, cheers in advance for any suggestions...

I remember reading quite some time ago that the atessa AWD system in the R33 GTS4's is *NOT* the same as that in a GTR... from what I remember reading it was slightly more simplistic in nature... ie. didn't have the full feature set that the GTR's did (sensors and what not). I may be wrong, but I do remember reading a fairly in depth article on it. In contrast, I know the R32 GTS4's is the same as the 32 GTR's...

Item: Tilton OT-II Triple plate clutch (7.25" or 185mm) Age: Couple years? I've had it for about 8 months, my mate had it for a few before that... Condition: Good (should have about 80% or more of its useable life, going by the plate wear specs from tilton Price: $550 ASKING... i am open to offers though, if it's reasonable I'll accept. To Fit: With current splins and diameter I have no idea (29 spline 1 1/4in diameter) Location: Perth Contact: Private message. Comments: Hey peoples, my clutch is up for sale... it was going to modified for use in my GTR, but having recently bought a house, the whole GTR project has gone down the crapper (or at least put on hold for a year or more). As such, I'm selling off bits and pieces which have just been sitting in the cupboard for 6+months... no point in keeping them around, for a project that may actually never see the light of day. So, my clutch is for sale. Got this off a mate about 6-8 months ago... it's *ultra* light, weighing in at 4.5kg, and is only 7.25" in diamter (185mm). Put simply, it's tiny, with a tiny rotating mass. The clutch uses sintered metallic discs (3x), and I have measured all disc thicknesses, with all coming in at 0.102" thick. Brand new these clutches are 0.104" thick. Taken from tilton's site: As you can see, the clutch is in great nick, having only worn 0.002" on each plate (which will wear quickly), and each plate has another 0.008" of useable wear (which will wear slowler than the previous 0.002"). Clutch plates are 29 spline, 1 1/4"... I was going to have it re-splined for GTR use, but as stated before, I've bought a house, and the interest rates (up until just lately) have been f**king me in the ass, put simply, and I can't afford to do the project right now. Brand new clutch plate packs can also be sourced from tilton quite cheaply in multiple spline/teeth and size, for chevy's, supra's etc. As an indication of cost, I asked a local aus dealer for tilton on a price quote for 3 brand new clutch plates, suit RB's / GTR (24x 1"). Total cost was $544.50 inc GST, that was from Earl's Australia (the fittings guys). Still waiting on a response from Xtreme clutch, they're also dealer for tilton here in aus... As for the exact torque holding capacity, I'm not 100% certain on. Minimum torque holding capacity for a Tilton OT-II triple plate is 612nm (450lb-ft), while maximum is 1713nm (1260lb-ft). Looking on the diaphragm,I can only see the stamping "G", of which they offer two models - HG and UG (H referring to high for the pressure plate ratio, and U for ultra-high). The specs on these are 1266nm and 1509nm respectively. Again, I can't be 100% on this, however, the person I did buy it off is running an identical clutch to this behind his rebuilt 1UZ-FE (turbo... t88-34D) powered supra... he was putting down in excess of 500rwhp on 12-13psi. His original OS Giken twin plate (from memory rated to "700hp") slipped horribly, to the extent that the clutch plates fused onto the floater plates. He's had no issue with the tilton so far... (no surprise there). The clutch uses UN-SPRUNG discs with a push-type release bearing, and is similar to drive like that of a HKS unsprung triple... These clutches are also individually balanced and marked from the factory. If there's anything else you want to know, just ask Asking $550, however this is negotiable, I need the money hey... If postage isn't too much, i'll throw it in for free. Cheers, Christian

I'm not exactly sure of R34 ecu's capabilities, but if you're giving it some stick, and it detects mild knock, the ECU might be dumping in more fuel... hence the worse consumption... (either that or retarding ign. timing).

This is interesting... Im in WA, and we've pretty much only had BP Ultimate as our source of 98 ron fuel... caltex vortex 98 and Peak 98 have only recently become available... I've pretty much always used BP 98 exclusively as a result... and I'm more than certain my ECU has a tuned rom (it runs quite lean!!! 12.7-12.9:1)... it's ok in most conditions, however, will ping slightly at high load/rpm in certain weather conditions. Anyways, after going for a bit of a drive the other night (minor pinging), I remembered there was vortex 98 nearby (needed to refill, refill warning light was intermitently coming on/off). So off I went, and put a good 25Litres or so of it in. Went for a drive for a good twenty to thirty mins to notice if it made any difference... i was actually expecting it to be worse than Ultimate, as everyone seems to praise that crap. To my suprise, the mild pinging I was having DISAPPEARED. Go figure. The car also seemed to rev/pull more freely at higher rpms ie. 6000rpm to 8000rpm. I was pretty shocked... Further to this, another guy I know had his silvia (GT30 based turbo) tuned on Peak 98. If he puts bp ultimate in it, it pings. Again, go figure. I do NOT use bp ultimate only from one place, so I can rule it out as not being a servo-specific issue. Furthermore, I've found what seems to be inconsitency between some servos selling ultimate... ie. I'd be low on juice, so i'd go and fill up, and find my car to be running like shit and/or ping shortly after filling up at some servos. Perhaps some servos are doing the dodgey (ie. selling contaminated fuel, or advertising 95 ron fuel as ultimate??? again this is speculation). This may just be a WA issue... maybe the refining process for making the fuel is different over here than in the other states? Who knows... all I can say is, Vortex 98 is now my fuel of choice. I've since flogged the crap out of it, to try and get it to ping, but it refuses to! To add further insult, vortex98 (where I fill up) is about 6-7 cents a litre CHEAPER than ultimate at my local... These are just my findings, I'm yet to try peak 98, but I will shortly...

Ahhh excellent, didn't realise the Pro Engines kit came with all the fasteners and oil pickup in the kit! that's pretty well priced for what it is then... I thought the original cost was just for the adapter plate - in which case you'd have to be smoking crack to pay $900 for it. Out of interest, how much for your plates shane? do they come with any fasteners ? Cheers guys, Christian

I understand everything that is involved I'm not clueless! I wouldn't buy an adaptor - i'd get one custom made myself... getting steel laser cut is cheap as hell... f**k paying $1000 for a glorified adapter plate. You could get your own made for < $300. I'm just tempted to build a 30/31 as the there is an equal chance that a rb26 will last as long as a $200 rb30 bottom end as stated above... hell, i'd be looking at putting in forgies at a minimum (cheap), and getting the factory rods prepped and checked... new bearings etc. Cams could always come later, they're easy to install... And yeah I understand all the ancillaries that are required are "extra" (ie. turbo, manifold)... If you build a motor yourself, a $10k long block will give you an rb30 that will handle 1000+hp... forged pistons, rods, oil pump, waterpump, springs, retainers etc...

Can I ask how much you sourced the bare head for? I'm still in the process of contemplating putting in a plain-jane 26 (ie. stock), or building an rb30 with neo25 or 26 head... the 26 is costing me $4k (it is in good condition, and has a guarentee)... I figure I can build an rb30 (which would be single turbo) for not much more... Don't get me wrong, I'm not planning to build a thousand HP competition motor... but I figure, even a rebuilt rb30 on "the cheap" (i'd be doing the build myself... so alot of labour is saved there) would be stronger than the majority of second hand (ie. r32 and 33 rb26's) floating around... Leaning towards the 30 build, as I've already got quite a bit of shit for a single conversion... bosch 044, greddy type r BOV, Tilton triple plate clutch/flywheel etc... Car has alot of goodies too... 17x9's all around... coil-overs (kei office), braided lines, new discs... too much to list!

I havent looked at the 26 plenums in detail... but couldn't you just plane off say 5mm from the first components that bolt to the head (do the throttles bolt directly up to the head on a 26?? I had a feeling they have a small manifold piece between the head and throts...), and get a 25 flange laser cut out of ally, and weld onto the planed off area? That would seem like the most simple, and cheapest method to me... mind you, i haven't looked at the 26 and 25 inlets in detail... Laser cutting ally is cheap as... hell, take the laser cutters a new gasket for a 25 and they'll be able to cut you an ally flange piece of piss... (ie. used as the stencil)... it might cost you what... $100-150? maybe less (for the flange)... welding it would be the more expensive part, but even that should only cost a couple hundred at most... (welding + grinding the inside ports clean) Maybe im heading off on the wrong track here, but I just haven't had time to look at the two inlets in detail...

Got any photos of the damage to cylinder 6 of the head?

Ok I'm wanting to revive this thread.... So sydneykid, if, for example someone were to build up an RB30DET (going full house, if you will), there would be more or less no benefit of using the 26 head over the neo25? wouldnt the neo therefore be a better option? variable cam timing... I mean, if you're changing out the valve springs, retainers, intake manifold etc... is it really worth forking out the extra money for the 26 head? I know the neo has solid lifters (and probably less worn than any 26 head you'll get your hands on, being from newer cars)... I ask this because im looking at the options for my 32 GTR... it needs an entirely new motor... no i don't have the old one anymore (therefore no 26 head) What about valve sizes? port sizes? head stud sizes? Cheers guys (and sydneykid !), Christian

This is an absolute f**king bargain, good luck with the sale mate!!! Most stockish GTR's go for 20-23k... (in decent condition)... so a fully built motor for $3k more? You can't even buy the turbos alone for that price! Good luck, Christian

Well i have my silver one up for sale... in perth, if you're interested make me an offer or whatever..! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t191496.html

Only if I can get a buyer for the brackets... Here is an update in paint of what i mean by you will need 4 extra bolts, and 4 washers! It's from a top-down view, I hope it makes sense... I've also included a few photos of the part on the hub/strut (where the factory caliper mounts to) which is the same width/thickness that the washers need to be! it's ~10mm... The brackets were made this way for strength reasons, you COULD run a skinnier bracket and have it running between the disc/strut, but personally I wasn't happy with that idea... (strength issues... personally, I don't want a caliper bracket that could potentially break off or crack! hence the extra thickness of these ones...). A few of these were made at the time, with one set being used on a sileighty track car pushing over 450rwhp, with no issues The part I'm pointing to below, is the part where the caliper mounts to the hub. A washer will need to be made approximately the same thickness as this! Another comparison shot against my r32 GTSt stock brakes: Anyways I'll reply to pm's tonight! (got work!)

Bump! I'll take of a rim/caliper and mock these up on my R32 GTSt to give you an indication of their size, and how the setup sits... If I get time, I'll also make up the mentioned washers to avoid any hassle/confusion for whoever buys this... Cheers guys, Christian

Bump! someone make me an offer...

Hmmm probably $420 posted.... allowing 15kg or so for weight, thats like ~$40 postage (regular, 4 days) once i take into account all the padding and boxes and all that... i'll confirm tommorow, taking a disc down to weigh it... provided postage isn't much more than that, $420 would be what im after (posted)... Let me know if you're interested still

Bump! Surely there is someone interested? Would make a good upgrade if your discs are wearing out (and hardly cost anymore than brand new replacement items)

Ok, discs are 324mm! here's the rest of the measurements... they were done with a measuring tape (not sure where my calipers went argh!), so bear with me if they're a mm off... but it should give u a general idea!

These are to suit the 32 GTS/t (and 300zx..? I'm positive they're 99% identical) calipers... as far as i know, GTR calipers *will not* fit. So that would make it the 280mm disc suiting calipers, i believe? Do you mean the depth? I'll take lots of measurements tonight and paint them onto one of the images...

Hey peoples... these were going to originally going to go on my R32 GTS-t (4door), but it is now for sale so i'm not going to bother... The kit consists of: 2x 324mm or 330mm JZA80 Supra discs, RDA slotted items... (can't remember exactly... it's one of those sizes... 330mm from memory) These discs are BRAND NEW, NEVER USED. They've been sitting in the cupboard for about a year... they still have the greasy film on them from the factory... Also included is 2x custom laser cut steel brackets... 10 or 12mm thick steel... i don't have a ruler so i can't measure... needless to say they're very thick and beefy. This kit will fit R32 GTSt's and the like, as well as silvias. Silvia's with 4 stud wheel patterns will need to drill 3 extra holes in the discs to suit (if you've got 4 stud)... The only thing you need to supply to fit is a few bolts for each side, and a few washers (ie. steel plate with a hole drilled in it), the same thickness as the brackets! (easy) These discs are huge... that's a 2L juice container for reference in the photo... YOU WILL NEED AT LEAST 17" RIMS TO FIT THESE DISCS (and some 17" rims will not work, due to caliper clearance) $400 for the lot, postage at your own expense. Pickup is fine. These costs me ~$450 for the discs alone a while back, and the brackets set me back about $80... As an idea of their size, 32 GTR discs are 297mm... and they're still a decent size.

Where are you located mate? Might want a few things...