Rekin

A lot of pointless woffle in this thread I got a prosport boost gauge. Works fine in day and night. Annoying thing is the beep on the intro start. You can turn it off but then you also lose the warning beep. Also if you have multiple gauges the intro sync will be off but that will be the same for any gauge with no central controller (unlike defi)

My 6 pack got wet in the rain and one fell through. Now im stuck with 5

was lol. I dont see a thread on ns.com about it though? Saw a couple of them wearing the ns.com hoodie

oh man thats so bad haha Nitro-meth is another level. Instead of using water-meth blend, you do a water-nitrometh blend. Moar powar

thanks for the tip. Will look into it. Havent seen the issue since posted, just found it odd...

hmm sounds a bit risky to play with it when you dont know the history of it. The idea is to blend 50:50 water and methanol and add to the container which the system is connected to. Normal setups come with a dedicated tank and do not use the window washer bottle. Depends if the previous owner did a dodgy or removed the system? You will need to find a supplier of methanol (methylated spirits is ethanol with a bit of methanol put in to stop people drinking it, so that wont work) Most race fuel suppliers can supply methanol in 20Ltr or drums etc Methonal is very dangerous and you dont want to smell/touch it etc. An option is to run just 100% water instead. That will reduce the air temperature but will not give more octane (methanol is like 120ron). A blend gets the best of water and methanol but having 100% water is easier to manage.

i purchased a kit but never got around to installing it. http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2158

hmmm fitted the speakers and spacers to the front doors. The spacers touch the door skin and cause buzzing/vibration sound. Kinda defeats the whole dynamat installation haha Im thinking of shifting the speaker/spacer lower so it doesnt touch the door skin (where the arm rest is) Is there anything else i could do? Should i cover the wooden spacer with some foam or something? Not happy

double post

friend had birthday party in one of the bars. No chap laps for me

haha holy thread revival! cheers for the comments 5yrs after completion, it is still in the car! Review: - The carpet fabric has come off, as in if i put my hand on the carpet it will be covered in strands. Probably the sun has caused it to fail? - My vents didnt stick to the carpet, they have lifted. Stronger glue would have to be used next time. - I didnt put any foam underneath the shelf, might cause rattling issue once a sub is in the boot Hopefully this DIY will serve for another 5 years

the article is talking about educating the local joe that when their mechanic says to change oil every 3000miles in their corolla it isnt actually required... Irrelevent to all of us as we agree to change our oil and arent pressured by mechanics to do so... In the end it means more oil for us if the general public understands that 3000miles service is no longer the norm. Motul 300v for everyone!!!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/392384-rare-r33-nismo-lcd-screen-dash-with-ej1-computer/ lol so cool

Torrents?

sorry i forgot this was a bike forum

yeah can shift up/down without clutch. Just have to make sure you are in the right rev range for the next gear. I havnt tried in my car because i dont want to hear a loud crunch haha Gearbox Birds should be able to provide a better answer

good kebabs on brunswick st.

haha, do it once do it right. I had no plans of building such a system but i got both subs brand new for $30 and it all sorta snow balled from there. I had plans for a simple system... haha thanks for the detailed information. Triple checked that I wired it correctly haha The plan is to slide the center box to the ideal position and then screw/seal it in place. It is already hard to slide the centre box due to the air not having anywhere to go. I made sure i didnt build a dodgy box haha Box weigh's 30kg i think, 3/4mdf and two 12" subs arent light! I have test fitted, it just fits. Need to remove the spare as its a bit too tall (r32 boot's are very shallow). Length wise its fine. In the end, if im not happy, i'll use it at home as a coffee table haha Nice info about the bass waves, will need to listen out for it once it's in. Will update thread once it's in the car! cheers. front stage, again picked up some splits from Blaupunkt. Only 60w RMS. Not sure what to expect however if it doesnt work its easy enough to swap them out. Hardest part is the sound deadening and mdf spacer.

Hello all, Thought i might share my r32 car audio build. First time installing sound system in car. If you see anything incorrect, please let me know so i can fix. Hopefully this thread will give me the motivation to continue working at it Okay, first things first... =================================== Subwoofer Picked up 2x brand new Blaupunkt Velocity VXS12 from a Blaupunkt liquidation sale as they are moving away from aftermarket setup. No idea if they are any good, but picked them up for a bargain. specs: http://www.bluespot.co.uk/car-audio.aspx/vxs12-subwoofer 2 x 4Ω dual coil design - 500w RMS Subwoofer Box Decided to build a Decware Deathbox II - http://www.decware.com/dbk12.htm I believe its a 4th order bandpass with an adjustable insert. I'm sure the pro's can provide more info The two sub's are mounted, clamshell style and on a box which slides up/down the main box for fine tuning. Pics of my build so far; Doors Time to start on the door. Following the tutorials on this forum, started first with applying the sound deadening. Speaker wires fed through door. Before: Inside: Outside: Wiring As i'll be running 1000w RMS subs and 2x60w RMS splits, i'll be going down the 2 amp setup and hence will require some beefy cables and connectors. Bought and wired in some Knu Koncept Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 - 5100 strands! Very flexible and full of copper! Made the installation very easy as it could bend around the panels of the car to get to the boot. Connectors Okay, went all out with the connectors. Picture below shows how it will work; Negative: - Knu Koncept Battery Terminal (3x 0ga) - Distribution Block (0 gauge -> 2/4/8ga) - Run 0ga wiring to block (replace existing ground wire) Positive: - Knu Koncept Battery Terminal (3x 0ga) - Fused Distribution block (1x0ga -> 2x0ga) - One for the amp wiring - One to alternator(replace existing alternator wire. Bypass fusebox fuse and use distribution block fuse for simpler wiring) - Distribution block (to split to 2 amp's) - Distribution block (to ground amp's to one wire) - Ground block I think thats it for now. Next step will involve fitting splits into doors and then replacing the negative/positive wiring in the engine bay etc Got all the parts, just need good weather and time Thanks for reading - Patrick

i can do the roof in carbon fibre? haha

lol hard choice cause at some angles it doesnt look nice. I do have a gtr bootlid + spoiler sitting in the garage though same car as before. I want a r32 gtr, but my r32 gtst not worth selling Ive dug too big of a hole now, stuck with this car for life haha first world problems

lolburn