Rekin

2004

No license, insurance or fuel/maintenance costs. Although $4k upfront I wouldn't think there would be much running costs after this. Just plug & play.

Cheaper to prepay @ $140/month Parking around docklands is $20/day

Good idea thanks. I'm 7km from city and was thinking how else to commute. $140/month Myki for a short trip isn't great value, neither is parking in city. Or maybe I join the vwl bandwagon and get a motorbike [emoji55]

You were right - disconnect the MAC valve & no more wastegate flutter sound. However at 4000rpm boosts to 15psi and then holds for a second and starts to creep towards 19psi. Doesnt seem to be wanting to hit 19psi with ease (actuator rating) Still looks similar to the the previous boost-graph above, just sitting a couple of psi higher now...will report back after a boost-leak check on the intercooler piping.

Good call, I'll bypass the Mac valve and run direct to actuator to see if wastegate flutter still there.

That's why it's a good opportunity to fleece a couple extra dollars. The customer is too preoccupied with the move.

Common scam by removalist mobs. ABC did an investigation on such tactics. When I moved to Perth, company paid for the move so wasn't fussed on how they did it. When I returned to Melb, I packed everything into moving boxes and they loaded into truck. Insurance is extra and you need to itemise majority of items. Arrival to Melb, couple of table tops & entertainment unit damaged. Excess chewed much of the insurance claim as I was claiming IKEA furniture. When I moved again, rented a budget truck and asked a couple mates to lend a hand. Hardest part was fitting all into one truck-load and strapping everything down so it didnt fly around.

minor update - new GFB Mach 2 blow-off valve fitted & set to hardest spring rate to prevent any leaks. What I think is happening now, is wastegate flutter as I build boost. A quick test-run shows I can boost to 21psi+ but as I build boost I start to hear wastegate flutter. I've adjusted the actuator another turn to tighten the preload but still hear it... Worth pre-loading anymore than the picture below? Ive been told half a hole is the recommendation & any more can lead to further dramas? Seeing as the above tune was for 16psi, and im now hitting 20psi+, I might lay-off the boost until I go back in for a touch-up after I sort out this wastegate flutter issue...

yeah you're right - I will start with a new bov & pressurize the system to hear for any leaks.

Thanks, i just bought a GFB Mach 2 - it states: "The Mach 2 solves all of these issues. It can effectively hold unlimited boost (unlimited in that no turbo could ever produce enough pressure to damage it), and the TMS technology ensures maximum throttle response."

ah awesome - im guessing this is it? https://www.efihardware.com/products/1593/submersible-pump-bulk-head-terminals

1000km run-in complete! Wired in a Fuel pump relay to provide a nice 13.5v to the Walbro pump. Tucked away behind the boot carpet & spliced into Fuel pump harness. Should suffice until I can work out how to directly replace the wires attached to the fuel tank lid. Reinstalled the radiator shroud, refit the undertray & fitted the Neo engine cover. Looking pretty standard with the airbox and all. Now back to the Tuner for a touch-up of the aborted E85 run & an e-flex tune on 98 petrol. Unfortunately ran into another issue where we weren't able to hold any boost beyond 16psi. Tried free-boosting and would only hit 19psi, no luck! Our assumption is the stock NEO bov is leaking? Any suggestions on a stealth/recirc option? GTR Bov able to handle 25psi? Or should I be looking at the Turbosmart Kompact? Chequered Tuning also managed to wire in a MAC valve to run off Nistune - providing rpm/tps boost control. Still in testing by Nistune themselves....exciting stuff. Unfortunately we werent able to complete the eflex tune as there was a Nistune firmware issue with the cold crank table. Parked until there is a fix... Managed to grab a couple screenshots of the latest dyno result - we are now up to 282kw @ 16psi // to be continued...

POTY

Was much easier to hide amongst a school of r33 whales

Updates! Car has completed its run-in tune but had more hiccups. Was hoping the Walbro 460Lph pump could operate with the standard FPCM wiring but unfortunately was unable to provide enough fuel pressure at high-revs. Unfortunately the power tune had to be stopped & will be retuned once my 1000km run-in is complete. Managed to half-attempt a 270kw @ 10psi with failing fuel pressure on e85. However signs are pointing to much more once fuel pump re-wired. So far, a lot more torque and power downlow in comparison to my old rb20 setup which was running 20psi So the next few weeks will be racking up 1000km and visiting Unitied for some sweet e85 juice. No boost & no revs beyond 4000rpm until the run-in is complete

Famous insurance wouldn't insure my car any more than $15k. Considering it has a rebuilt forged Neo, rebuilt gearbox & a $3k new turbo. Happy to pay more premium but not even an option Rusted r32 gtr's are worth 4x more Might have to try shannons or NRMA vintage/classic insurance

Yes - skybus to southern cross station and then train to Ringwood.

Should try a Neo

He got rid of his rb20 long ago. I was the last to drop the rb20. RIP

Effortless power in the Neo rb25. Can't wait to dial in 25psi

The fuel pump resistor was burning hot. We bypassed it but still can't provide enough current. I'm running in new engine below 4000rpm so no massive draw on fuel pump atm

Have an adjustable fpr which assumed would have kept pressure. Unfortunately with these walbro pumps they draw a lot of current which the standard fpcm can't handle.

Walbro 460Ltr - need to wire in the direct 12v with relay thingo. The standard fuel pump control module couldn't provide enough current.