Rekin

haha i would have just ripped out all the fuses. Pull out the fuel pump fuse and car will stop, easy. Here's a pic for any r32 auto's with cruise control to stop them ending up in frankston

its called the import car tax, they know we have money to spend on cars and hence can jack up the prices without us making a fuss Well thats my theory for all parts/repairs for import cars vs local corollas haha

the most improved award goes to the car which broke down?

haha no drama's. The tappet noise is only for a second, just signs the engine getting tired. Ill be leaving the car at the end of my fuel cycle (ie. low/empty tank) should I top it back up to full and leave it? Will the fuel after 3 weeks be useless? cheers

How does the owner know it needs new belts and gas? Is it because it isnt blowing cold air and thinks thats the case? It could be a rooted ac compressor. Any weird clanking noises when you turn it on? I suggest take it to an ac mechanic for a checkup before you buy. That way they can truly tell you the problem as it could be more than gas and belts.

I live on the base of the dandenongs and dont see what the hype is about it? The only good road I can think of is mountain hwy? Am i missing something? Reefton spur makes mountain hwy look like a straight road lol

Here is some info i found which sort of related to Bee-r rev limiter

If you still interested in sticking with smic, autospeed.com.au has done a lot of tutorials with improving efficiency of them. Have a look at this for an example http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_110214/article.html

lol what the hell? Who has a full titanium exhaust? You know how much one of those would set you back! Im guessing you were referring to stainless steel exhaust? There is no need for titanium on any street driven car. Depends on the brand i guess. Xforce catback stainless steel - $800 ; take off $300 for mild steel Hiflow cat - $200 Front/dump pipe - $200 Labour - $300 So around $1k for a mild steel system is reasonable, depending on brand and cost of installation.

Thanks for that, had a look through their website, real nice w2a intercoolers Its a R32 gtst with a factory option of drop down spoiler ( )Difference is Nissan moved it further behind the front bar so it takes up the space between the radiator and the front bar. The goal is to put the w2a inline barrel in the straight pipe just before it bends and enters the manifold, although having a look at it, its a big tight and would be a bit of mucking around to fit it in. Here's a pic of where i was thinking of fitting it (not my engine bay) Ill look into the smic fan and ducting, found a lot of info on autospeed website. Cheers for the fmic links, I did purchase a similar one but it was too long and still fat to fit in. Those ones are smaller and will see if i can shoe-horn one in. Ill be going back to my tuner this week to see if he can touch up the tune. Im running nistune which has a knock-map if knock is detected however it didnt feel like it switched maps. Will see if i can change the sensitivity. Ill deff look into the fan and water spray. Cheers all

Hey, Going for a long trip for 3 weeks and the car will be sitting unused. Should there be anything I should worry about? Ill probably just disconnect the battery but can the car comfortably sit for 3 weeks without being started? If i leave my car for 2 days the tappets make loud noise on start up until pressure builds up etc, so not sure what to expect after 3 weeks.. Cheers

Saw three ferraris on wellington road, they were all 1min apart from each other. Driving away from Lysterfield. I wonder if they knew each other? Was random to spot three of them on the same stretch of road at same time haha A red ferrari 430 scuderia, a red california and a red f430 i think. Ferrari overload haha

haha he only picked up his car on thursday, must have been shitting bricks when he got stopped

ah my mistake, thought all the r31's from japan had the drop down spoilers. Cheers for the offer, will prob have to go down there and get him to fix the stonechips on my month-old paint In regards to heatsoak issue, ive heard to overcome this is to put in a reservoir in the system (ie a medium sized catchcan) By having more water through the system, this means less chance of water becoming heatsoaked. However, I am still running the SMIC which takes a fair amount of heat out of the air so the w2a wont be exposed to large heat Was also thinking intercooler waterspray kit, but would constantly need to monitor water levels If anyone have any better ideas let me know!

The trusty smic has survived to 200kw it has done me well I blame aussie weather not the smic haha As mentioned before, even if i choose to go fmic and get around the chopping it will not fit with the drop down spoiler. The spoiler retracts under the front bar and has 2 large motors on both sides taking up a large amount of space (good luck trying to run a return pipe under the fmic) Interested to know how you did it in your GTS-R, as it also has the drop down spoiler. Although yours flips out flush with the frontbar where as the r32 is further behind (in front of the radiator but behind the front bar) I was thinking of buying a small dual-pass fmic from justjap and some custom piping but its barely larger than the ARC and is quite poor in design in terms of the tanks/fins/tubes etc. Another option is an Apexi return flow fmic for gtst but getting one of them from japan will cost $500 second hand and half of it is covered lol Hence why im leaning towards a w2a system to run inline with the smic...

haha yeah i was there to the very end. Good luck washing that out, similar thing happened to me another night haha

Hey all, Got an issue with my current setup and was wondering what would be the best way to get around it. Currently im running a rebuilt hks2530 tuned to 15psi putting out 210kw. My future goals is to put in some cam gears and tune it to 19psi to reach 230kw~ My problem is cooling side of things. At the moment im running an ARC sidemount pictured below. They are 50% larger than r34 smic, direct bolt-on and very stealth. Ive noticed that when sitting in traffic in a hot day and then finally moving off, the car was lightly detonating (rattling sound from the bonnet ) I believe it would be my smic heatsoaked and causing the problems. Now before everyone jumps on the fmic bro' bandwagon the reason why Im not keen on one is; - Dont want to cut up front bar/reo bar - Dont want attention from cops (yes i know you can paint it black) - Dont want to lose my factory drop down spoiler (this has 2 large motors where an fmic would go and there is no chance of fitting one in; For those who dont know here is a vid; )So to get around this problem, i was thinking of running a water to air intercooler system with my sidemount. The system would look similar to this; whereby the w2a barrell is placed inline with the intercooler piping and the radiator would be placed where a fmic would usually go. I was thinking of getting a 270hp water-to-air inline barrel and placing it in the piping just before the manifold. So the air will be cooled first by the SMIC, then travel through the w2a barrel and then into the manifold. Im hoping the extra cooling of the smic will allow me to push the power to 300hp. As water can absorb 4x as much heat as air can it is a great method of cooling but it retains heat for much longer, so a good radiator needs to be coupled with it. The water-to-air setup will cost about $700, so its similar pricing to a good quality front mount (Blitz return-flow) hence why im keen on trying it out. I was wondering if anyone would have any experience or valid knowledge about this setup im proposing? There's a lot of talk floating around the water getting heat soaked on daily/track driving but reading through american forums they say this is only myth. Would like to hear from someone who has credible information. The majority of people just go straight w2a setup or straight a2a setup, whereas i want to try a mix of both as it is the cheapest option. Another option I could do is place a larger w2a barrel in the space an fmic would go but would involve some custom piping to get around the drop-down spoiler etc If i do go through with this, ill probably hook up a temp sensor on the pipings so I could show the impact in temperature drops, but yeah interested to hear what people have to say. Cheers

very good turn out, thanks to Ray and the Recustoms team for hosting a well-organised dyno day.

*waits for sauvic heathcote drag day *

anyone planning on competing next time. Arrive there at 3pm! I showed up at 4:30pm (5:00pm gates open according to their website) and they were full

white r33 gtst with black bonnet. Lowered and had stock r33 rims. Also had sauvic sticker and was parked near the 711 at Waverly gardens around 10pm

Awesome car. I see this parked at the shopping complex everyday in ferntree gully as I drive past

Useless photo but look at the bend!

The ballast resistor is the GTR resistor pack. Which has 1 voltage input and 6 injector outputs. The red wire (12v power) also provides power to other parts in the engine (from what i remember?) so thats why you have to find the actual 12v wire for each injector. As shown in the picture, a wire splits off the red line which then powers three injectors. If you are going down the resistor path, I believe you just wire the resistor inline with each 12v injector wire. The tricky bit is determining which one is the 12v from the 2 wires running to each injector connector. My method is to use a multimeter to find the 12v instead of stripping the whole loom to find it. There is another thread on this forum which explains which resistors are needed from jaycar. Hope the above makes sense? haha

Have a read through here on how I installed the resistor pack. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...l=gtr+injectors