Rekin

R32 GTST - Most common model. (rwd turbo) GTS4 - awd turbo Every R32 GTST sold is a TypeM. (Have never seen a non typeM) Best power/responsive turbo for rb20det is HKS2530. Pick one up for $800-$1200AUD second hand. Will get you 210-230kw at the wheels depending on supporting mods. (full exhaust, cam gears, intercooler, tune, gtr injectors, z32 afm) Or R33 turbo ($300-$400AUD) which will get you 180-200kw depending on dyno/tune/supporting mods Cheapest engine management is to get a chip into factory ecu or Nistune www.nistune.com

was getting a pizza from Mario's (noble park, on princes hwy) last night. The amount of cops travelling up and down princes hwy at 12 was crazy. Although there was still hundreds of modded ford, commo's etc driving up and down. Saw like 3 cars get pulled over. One was a black monaro which sounded mental.

haha wonder what he was driving...

Can always try aldi http://aldi.com.au/au/html/offers/2827_9309.htm I got my M2R helmet for $120 from a suzuki bike dealer. Just go to any motorbike shop and they will have helmets for $100 mark.

only shows ignition timing degree value thats all. Also, the blitz r-vit only works on standard ecu's. If you have a powerFC it wont work. If you're using a standard ecu, they have knock protection anyways and will switch to safe map if anything goes wrong. The blitz r-vit also works with chipped standard ecu's such as nistune (where you can tune the knock map to protect car etc) Else the powerfc, i believe, shows knock reading and flashing light but thats all you get. No safe map switching as standard ecu

I got a Blitz r-vit TypeII in my r32 skyline. It plugs into the consult port near the fuses. It only shows ECU details. Doesnt have any external sensors, only reads ecu information. (no different to plugging a laptop with consult cable) Displays all sensors which the ecu reads; water temp, afm voltage, o2 voltage, injector duty cycle, ignition timing, battery voltage, speed, rpm In regards to question 4, you are after a single unit which can display external sensors for water temp, oil press, boost press etc. Only option ive found on the internet is Defi Link - http://www.nengun.com/defi/link-display Although after buying all the sensors etc, it will set you back close to $1k

If you are getting the car tuned at a workshop which has a nistune tuners license, then you do not need to buy the $200 license. You just buy the board and pay for the tuning at the workshop.

i had the tramlining issue with 235/45's on my +30 rims. Steering wheel would pull into any ruts in the road etc, was annoying to drive with. However after dropping to 225/45, adjustable camber bushes,adjustable castor bushes and a proper alignment, the tram lining disappeared and have no issues.

Rebuilding a turbo; http://www.rotomaster.com.au They rebuilt my hks2530 (new ball bearings and seals) for $800 They were the cheapest because they are a garett distributor and can source bearings by themselves etc To rebuild bush-bearing turbo's (standard turbo's and some highlows (if not converted to ball bearing)) the price is around $500 from quotes i got from other turbo shops

damn that sucks. Sounds dodgy as, cause you live in a court too, doesnt sound like a random hit to me....

saw a light blue r33, not baby blue a bit darker, on lower dandenong road. Also drove alongside a white r32 gtr on ftg road at about 5pm. Had rego plates SUP-XXX

9inch +30 with scrub on the rear (if lowered). Will need to roll the guards or have some negative camber. They will also scrub on the front depending on height. I had +30 8inch on the front with 235/45 tyres and it would scrub. Dropped to 225 and scrubbing went away. Yours are 1inch wider so would scrub much easier in my opinion. 9inch +30 is the same design as R33 GTR rims. So best to ask any r32 gtst owner with r33 gtr rims and they will tell you a deffinite answer on fitting.

the 180deg around the cone at start of video is the long wang track. I think that stays the same. Only the skidpan courses change?

This is my results for R32. R32 smic is smaller than R33, so dont expect as much gain as I got in my r32. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ts-t158811.html R34 Smic should handle about 200kw fine and is direct bolt-on for r33's. (r32's need outlet changed i think)

good idea! Phatboy I have a Hyundai Getz I will glady swap for the GTR for your snow trip Make sure you bring it back with a full tank of petrol cause Im doing a favour for you

http://tractiontyres.com.au/ 65 Kelletts Road, Rowville, Vic. 3178, Australia. PH. (03) 9764 2811, FAX. (03) 9764 8740. Give these guys a call, they deal a lot with track cars etc. Tell em Pat with the black r32 referred you

http://www.statustuning.com 63 Rodeo Drive South Dandenong

woo payment + email sent with application. Thanks

My friend who works at Holden and helped design the camaro, has told me that they will not be selling them here. Lets hope they change their minds

Yep thats the ASAA form. Fill that out and bring to deca. CAMS process is same, just need to find the form on their website and be part of sauvic.

wait wha? How does that work? Does it work for all autobarn? Never knew sauvic gets 10% discount? From my experience from last deca, you can submit an application for ASAA or Cams at Deca. Just make sure you bring the completed form to hand in on deca day. You can get the form off asaa website and cams website, depending which one you want to go.

dont be weak, just go for it. You will regret it once you are up there watching it. This event is nothing but a massive bit of concrete with witches hats around. Try your best to follow the course around the cones, if you stuff up no one cares as every rwd car usually ends up spinning out and thats half the fun. From my experience, the people who took the course slower ended with higher placement cause they dont end up wiping out all the cones Re; driverdynamics skidpan Ive done it before, two different scenario's as the driverdynamics one is covered in water/oil. You wont be holding any big slides anyway in the motorkhana courses.

Any idea of the time it will go up? Dont want to come back from work with it all booked out

pull out the rear seats and try and follow it to where it goes Pulling out rear seats takes 2 seconds. Two u-latches holding down the base one on each side. Shove a long screwdrive and pull up until the seat base pops out. Then you got access to the screws holding the vertical part of the seat, undo the 2 scews, and slide the seat up towards the ceiling to get it off the hooks. Then have a look around at where it goes