Rekin

haha awesome, thanks for clarifying that Ash Next time i should learn to trust you more Abu, but then again you do own a r33 <3

Hey, Ill be installing a GT2530 soon into my r32 but the turbo doesnt come with any water/oil lines or drain pipe. Is it possible to use the stock lines/drain pipe etc from the standard rb20 turbo? Is this advised, or should I get some new lines made up by Pirtek/Enzed? If its better to get new lines, how exactly do i order a set for my car and the turbo? Would they happen to have any information on the r32, and all i would need to bring is the 2530 for them to measure up the banjo bolts etc? I have no clue on how to do this, any help would be awesome Thanks Patrick

Hey, Posting up this info so it may help someone else in the future; my 1993 Series 2 R32 GTST has; Hitachi 80amp alternator Purchased a R33 GTST Alternator; 90amp alternator The R33 Alternator is a direct bolt-on for a r32 gtst. (physically the same) Only difference is the battery bolt connector. Auto Electrician charged me; $55 for remove, refit r33 alternator and change the battery bolt. End result; R33 90AMP alternator on a r32 gtst Hope this helps and removes any uncertainties. Thanks Patrick

Nothing special, just put in new globes Headlights: Phillips DiamondVision Parkers: Phillips SilverVision Foglights: same from japan

heh thats cool, didnt know they were free? They just allow any car to roll on and get a figure? Wouldnt mind knowing my car's weight

is your rego like pjz or tjz? cant remember but it was something similar to that haha

i have re-occurring acute appendicitis. Ive had 3 painful experiences of appendicities and each time surgeon turns me away as the inflammation always goes away. Although he says one day it will have to come out haha Least i know what to do when it comes round the 4th time haha

http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_107975/article.html

the ticking sounds are in every car. When metal gets hot it expands, when you turn off the car, the metal starts to cool down causing the ticking sound. Thats why the sound goes away once the car is cooled as the metal has stopped contracting. Double check this by taking another car out for a drive and listening to the engine bay, see if it sounds the same as on your car. If it is, then there are no problems

spotted yesterday a silver R33 with silver dish rims on Wellington rd waiting on intersection to turn right onto princes hwy. Had SAU-VIC stickers and was at 3:00pm~ I was the black r32 just a couple of cars behind you to your left.

you could try http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/ my friend has a 205 gti and gets plenty of help from there

yep, didnt your skyline come with a factory nissan shotgun? bl if not *note same flare, different jdm flare holder*

haha thats cool, i like the behind the scenes vid. Interesting how its all put together.

ill have to give it a shot one day. Ive got a temp sensor multi-meter but no way to read the numbers. Unless someone is willing to sit in the engine bay edit; Although, when thinking about it. The temp-prob may have heated up from the idling engine, and will take a while to cool it self down. Whereas in an airpod, it is sucking in air at high speeds, whereby the velocity is too quick for the surrounding heat to transfer any energy to the air. Same can be said as to why insulating the cross over pipe doesnt affect the air temp's as there is not enough time for the heat to transfer through the pipe to the air rushing into the manifold.

even so, when the car is travelling on the roads at 60,70,80km+ etc the whole engine bay is full of cold air, a pod would never suck in hot air whilst driving as the heat never stays around. The only issue with hot air would be when idling as the hot air is not pushed out by any flowing air from movement. Also, putting down the bonnet would be more off from real world results, as the dyno fan can only do so much which is usually aimed at the FMIC/Radiator

Ive been thinking about the same idea; buy one of these cig lighter extensions; http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PP...=&SUBCATID= Break up the connector, hardwire it behind the factory cig lighter and feed the new cig lighter into the glove box

r33 brake/rotor setup are only slighty larger than a r32 gtst setup. Just get a set of RDA slotted rotors (look in group buy section) and some QFM A1RM (also known as K750) brake pads and you'll have plenty of stopping power with the r32 calipers. However if you have money to spend, you can always try the r33 calipers, but then you will also need to buy proper rotors and brake pads too. - Patrick

the rb20det coilpacks are the same as the Series 1 R33 GTST according to my Splitfires which i purchased. The splitfire model: SF-DIS-001 works for r32, gtr and r33 series 1 The model number on my old r32 coilpacks is; 22433-60U02 Problem is, you could have series 2 nissan coilpacks I guess if you can confirm the model number to be series 1 coilpacks, then it should fit in your rb20? But dont take my word for it as its only an assumption

From GTR.co.uk; right at the top of the block under where the head meets the block, 8" apart. very difficult to get to and remove with engine in place..look under the plenum at the block as above. they have a black plug on them..

haha reminds me when i was at an intersection; my r32, commodore, riced up lancer. We all took off normally from the lights, until the commodore next to me turned on his lights and pulled over the lancer. Turned out it was a unmarked commodore cop car. Dodged a bullet there i reckon lol

Spotted a wrx and a rx7? parked at the Shell petrol station across road from Waverly Gardens. 12:30midnight friday. I remember reading about a sau member working at that shell station?

Thanks for the quick reply Would faulty knock sensors cause the car to splutter and erratic idle on idle? I read somewhere that the knock sensors switch the map to safemode to protect engine. If its switching between maps, this could be causing the spluttering?

Hey, My car has been playing up recently, where if i leave the car to idle for a while after driving. The revs drop and it starts to splutter, with the idle moving up and down and car acting all funny. Once i start moving and accelerating everything is fine. Connected a ecu diagnosis tool and an error came up; 34: Knock sensor signal I have a stock ecu, Where is the knock sensor located? How much it cost to replace? Is there a part number? Thanks all

Thanks for the heads up, its good to see car enthusiasts helping out each other Im impressed by the actual report the company produced. Measuring Paint thickness etc Seems like real good value when compared to what RACV tells you

Cant remember what i did, but you can do something similar to this; http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2007/11...h-splice-wires/