r33fred

R33 - series 2 - GTST coupe in Darwin- Unusual blue-purple colour. Built 1996. Imported 2004 via Svi. . Genuine only 29,000 k. Stock when it arrived. 4 speed auto. Factory electric sunroof and ampflier. Stock mags with new Falken 235 tyres. Window tint. Lightly modified with 'turbo smart' boost controller only boosted to 9 psi. Has large 'PWR' intercooler made specifically for skylines with inlet and outlet on same side so stock engine bay piping is retained. Turbo timer. Use castrol R synthetic 10/30 oil. Immaculate car, genuine reason for sale . $21,000 ono - Darwin 0438 866728.

What boost are u running? Have a larger FMIC or standard? Better intercooler from standard and/or running your boost down lower for a bit may do the trick. Premium fuel, good engine oil and some decent runs should get and keep off most of the carbon in the combustion chamber and piston crowns.

17" look better....

Oops sorry... didn't mean anything with the head noise bit.

Naturally you test for resistance or voltage, or carry out the self diagnostic just saying that if it rattles then its obviously U.S

Yeah he reakons he hears grinding or bearing noise, I couldn't hear it, maybe has noises in the head

Yeah exactly the same. Will bolt straight on.

Remove it from the dump pipe and then shake it, if it rattles inside then its obviously stuffed. The O2 sensor on my mates stagea 4cefed @ 64,000k rattled inside and I replaced it.. I replaced one before and economy improved by about 100k per tank. I got the 02 sensor from Automotive Service Solutions in Brisbane.. ph 07 3857 9500.... part number 23009 3 wire uni fit. @ $130 total includes freight. Has two whites and a black wire which u connect to the original 2 browns and 1 white... so two white wires connect to two brown wires and the black wire to the singular white wire. Use a 22mm ring or open ender... short open ender is easier. Not hard to remove..

Check your o2 sensor... There only good for about 60,000k... replacement is about $80... Shake the sensor, if it rattles inside then its stuffed. A non working o2 sensor can cost you about 100km per tank. Should the ECU not register readings from the sensor then its goes into a bit oif a failsafe situation where it enriches the mixture and I think also maybe even retards the ignition timing slightly. .

Thought I'd try this in the NT thread.. In Darwin - Need to sell my beloved skyline, usual story - need the money.. Appreciate if you might know if anyone is interested. At least the car is available here in Darwin and one can save money on transportation. R33 coupe GTST turbo . series 2. 1996, imported in 2004 for myself via SVI. Genuine 29.000k. Immaculate condition and really is. Unusual purple/blue colour. Window tinted . Factory amp, factory electric sunroof , 4 speed auto. Arrived stock. Now has manual boost controller only ever boosted to 9 psi. Spent a grand on a new PWR FM intercooler Invite any inspection. Now asking $ 20,000 ono. Fred on 0438 866728 Thanks Guys..

Guys.. Gotta sell my series 2 as I am getting transferred to Gove, need to buy a 4x4.. Late 1996 series 2 - GTST coupe. Imported march 2004 28,000 genuine ks. auto passenger and driver airbag. factory sunroof. climate control. genuine excellent condition. dark blue with a hint of purple in it. Totally standard condition when bought. Mods Large Pwr FMIC. with 63 mm alloy piping. Turbosmart boost controller, only boosted to 9 psi. GTR finer filter in standard airbox. Free flow muffler, standard exhaust piping. Invite any inspection or check. $23,500 ono. Ph Fred on 0438866728 or pm me on this site.

I can understand coolant running through the injector rail to heat up the fuel so it atomises better but can't understand why you would want to heat up the air intake, unless the idea is to actually cool the plenum.

Same time... if one of those bearing go you'll be in a lot of hurt.

Considering the kays the white line on the belt would be a lot more faded if its the original, its been replaced by the look. Replace the belt anyway... Be careful as he exhaust cam does not like much advance or your midrange power goes to crap. Keep the exhaust cam wheel mark right on or as close to it as you can.

Been making mods to get coolest air charge possible on a series 2 - R33. Big FMIC from PWR , insulated turbo, cooler and intake pipes with Flashtac to reduce heat soak. But notice on the throttle body and plenum, coolant piping routing hot water through both. I'm puzzled, would that not simply heat up the plenum and throttle body? Sure feels hot after a run. Nissan engineers would know what they are doing and probably have reason for doing this. I guess the coolant is designed to cool down the plenum which would get very hot being bolted to the head. Anyone disconnected these pipe or re routed them?

R33 auto will handle it easily. I have a series 2, has small oil cooler out front.. They use the same auto box in the 4 x 4 patrols so they are plenty strong. Need good full synethic fluid though.

I use Valvoline full synethic 10 w 50... Cold weight is 10 so is thin and runs freely on cold start up but more importantly the hot index rating of 50 is important for heat protection as turbo engines tend to run hotter than non turbo. Although Nissan reccomend a hot weight of 30 which to me seems far too thin.

Keep the stock box. Get a GTR foam re usable 'Finer Filter' they have very good flow and do a good job cleaning the intake charge. As an addition to the stock cold air intake I cut another hole nearby and routed short piece of flex pipe to just behind the headlight to assist with air flow. Car really seems to accelerate and breathe better, and you're not sucking in hot air, that kills performance.

Go one better, full synethic like castrol trans z.. about $60 for five litres. better protection and better shifts cold and hot.

Yeah mate the throttle position sensor is the one on the image.. Let us know how you go and if that sorted the problem.

Had the same problem in my s 2. r33 auto, she'd go to top gear and with very little throttle kept changing down. Driven me mad - kept changing all the time without any change to my throttle position.. Turns out the a/t computer was in limp mode... Turned out that the throttle positioning sensor mounted on the throttle body needed adjustment. Had to turn it to the left slightly. Best way to test it is to disconnect the plug to it - the revs will lift and drop down. Re plug it. rotate the sensor it left and right, what you'll find is that rotate right the revs will pick up at idle, keep rotating it left until the revs at idle drops and is at correct revs and set it there. Unplug the connectors and re plug to ensure that revs are still right at idle. then test drive it. That fixed my problem. No further trouble with auto box.. Run good synethic trans fluid hey.. like castrol tans z. See ya.

Yeah mate got one for my series 2 - gtst... well made and really solid and strong @ $880. The model I got had the inlet and outlet on the same side to reduce cooler piping length and not have that cooler pie crossover problem... tube and fin design and works really well on my car.

Car: R33 GTST series 2 Age 47 Race. Dutch/french Occupation Police Detective.

I've done up my 96 series 2 auto with min of cost so far ... Put a finer filter GTR panel foam filter. Cut an extra hole in the stock airbox and pipe to rear of headlight will increase intake airflow. A good FMIC I got one from Power Performance Products in Qld who make i/coolers. They make a good one specifically for skylines in that the inlet and outlets are on the same side so you'll need only a minimum of piping and can use all your standard engine bay turbo piping. A Turbosmart single stage manual adjust gated boost controller for about $95. That did wonders - the turbo spools up a lot more quickly. Gated to open @ 6psi. Have my max set at 8psi and runs great. The next job is a 3inch car back system. I got my car set up so I can run all the stock bits ECU, blow off valve mixture and the like. and for little cost.. hope this helps. Most important when you have everything set up a good dyno tune to have your cam belt and iginition timing including fuel mixtures re set with the turbo boost you want to run.

I bought a R33 series 2 - gtst - auto. few months back. Imported it through a broker in SVI in Brissie... They did the compliance for about $1,600... Car had 23k only on the clock...Nice and standard for all up handed to me for $19,000......... Really wrapped with the car..... lYou know where I saw this car and gave the broker the go ahead to buy I bought the f/en thing for 6000,000 yen converted to $7,700 Aust....thats all it cost over there. Thanks to protection for Ford and Hodlen they added about 10,500 in import tax. Still was a very good buy for 19g. I've since added a pwr FMICooler and turbo smart boost gauge.. to 9 psi only and a uni filter GTR foam filter in the stock air box.. See ya on the road guys, mine is blue/ purple colour plated with "series2"