skitzone80b
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Everything posted by skitzone80b
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I have to admit I went 20 before 25, only went 25 because the 20's electrics failed. I think theirs pros and cons with either of them. Power, 25. Torque 25, reliability 25. but as a 31 owner I do believe theirs a nostalgic f**k the cool kids about having a built 20 in one as it's what they were. And I think a Neo 20 would be awesome in a 31 but it's only a 1200ish kg car and they do alright with the old 20's in them anyhow. To me nothing beats the sound of a 20 with a gate on song but that might just be me...
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Thanks guys!
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I ended up just booking it in at C-red but thanks guys.
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Hey guys done some looking around I need a new piping kit as when I built my car I used the cooler n pipes out of a doner car n they weren't that great. I want one of those ones that deletes the j pipe and goes throttlebody slight curve then down to near the alternator. All the ebay ones don't show any pictures on car. Anyone know if theirs an off the shelf item for this?
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Need Help! R33 Gts-T With 90Kw
skitzone80b replied to famous33's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
If your timing light is jumping around like fark I wouldn't be swapping the afm i'd be swapping the cas dude. -
Hey guys I live down rockingham way and was looking for someone to tune my nistune rather then driving up to andrew is there anyone down here that can do them that you'd pay to have play with your car?
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I'm waiting to get it engineered yet shannons say if a crash happens and it doesn't have anything to do with the suspension or motor they'll cover it but I"m a little iffy. Car: 1990 skyline executive Insurance company: Shannons Cost: $900 age: 20 driving history: Still clean, not a single fine yet... gender: Male mods:Rb25 installed, hd clutch, custom tailshaft, sd, fmic, pod, 3" turbo back, aftermarket ecu, 16x7.5/16x9, stereo, coil overs, brakes. garage y/n: yes alarm: Basic immobilizer insured amount: $10000 market or agreed value: agreed insured in parents name? No alarm category: Some kind of basic immobilizer only. excess: $450
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Agh fair enough if you're prepared to part with cash, lets face it most of us aren't =P Get a hold of bev he likes his 18's and his mesh but he doesn't get ém cheap or sell em cheap either.
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fair enough is a nistune alright or wait til a pfc comes up? can get a nistune custom tune and fitted for same price as a second hand pfc n just reset it?
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But yeah in all honesty don't know don't care what loom it is. I know it's a s1 loom as it has the ignitor plug etc. and a blue ecu plug not grey. Had the same pinouts of course to match the 33 ecu but some of the wires were different colours for some of the things to the norm and it has an entire other plug which I'm thinking is for a TCU or a 4wd. I don't do my own wiring, the bloke who modified the loom has been doing Nissan looms for 10 years and is extremely high regarded in the 31 club for cashies and he bench wired it and did the off car test at home. When we plugged it in it wasn't getting coil signal or injector feed so he had to nut it all out with the multimeter. The loom that came with the motor is the one that I went retard on this loom was bought off a mate who got it with his motor and found out that it was series 1 loom series 2 motor.
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Yeah they went ages ago man I got a set of impul mesh's kicking around ones got a buckled lip so I wouldn't bother with the postage. If you want dope meshies smash up rollaclub.com no one wheel whores 15's like those ke boys.
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Nah man literally I think two pipes have the bead at the end to help the seal of the silicone and it does need some new joiners I think honestly I'd be better off spending the $170 on just a piping kit with a whole heaps of new bends new joiners and good clamps.
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And JJ I'm really surprised to hear that man everything else I got is carby n I always thought that if ya running a dead stock set up with the factory fuel injection system to run that set up it would be fairly accurate. Did the rb20's have this issue aswell or is it an s1 25 thing?
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Yeah thanks for that sky I understand the modifying the car will make it hit R&R I just assumed that 1 psi more , a catback exh and a front mount was still stock ya know . Plugs are gapped at 0.8 didn't realise that wasn't stock it's what they 20 plugs were set to and what the boys said they had there 25's set to. Soon you could slowly wind it on and it'd be fine I thought the afm might be pooey soon when you just stand on it and load it right up it only hits 4.67v. I'm just going to wait til next weekend and replace the cooler piping as it all came from a donor car n it was a little mismatched so I'll try rule out all vac leaks with that and remove the boost tee.
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No worries i'll just take the tee bleed off and run it straight to the manifold I thought 8 psi would be fine. This is the first stock stock ecu I've used the rb20 used to run a nistune so I guess I'll have to save up for a power fc.
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Yeah that's exactly what it looks like! But if you slowly bring it upto about 4 you can then gun it and it'll pull to 7.5
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This car sat in a shop for 4 months having all the electrics replaced brennan stay off my threads don't wanna hear it.
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Oh yeah, I thought you were talking about my car...
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Yeah man because it had no bov so when the turbo was coming off spool I'd say it was shooting the air out and then sucking it back in and getting a crappy reading. Instantly fixed it, few other bugs to iron out but I've put about 180kms on it today!
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I just don't understand how a factory built and tuned motor can't go full throttle over 5 it sounds fricking stupid to me, plus a mate has a s1 33 and before he went adaptronic it didn't seem to do it in his!
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My motor is completely stock I don't know who you're saying has a z32 afm and rb20 computer but not me, not anymore. The afm's hitting 4.67 volts if you just jump on the throttle hitting around 4700-5000 and it just takes for ever to rev as it is pulling timing. I have had the data logger on it and I know for a fact that it's pulling timing when this happens. If you take it to 4-4500 and slowly wind the pedal in she'll pull to 7 quiete easily. I have a boost bleed that is set at 8 pounds and is not creeping. And when it gets hot the idle got crappy and stalled a few times at lights on the way home today, I did like 180kms on it was fine til the halfway point when i stopped in at a mates when I left his it'd start catch stall til I gave it a little rev. I think it's the afm personally but I asked the question so I could get other peoples opinions.
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Oh yeah, another rich n retard thread.... Mate reckons it's pretty usual on a s1 25 with stock management if you gas it to hard. But I don't quiete believe him my coilpack or afm are gone aren't they? At full wrap it hits 5 grand and then feels like pushing it to keep it revving. I've heard a lot of people and there ideas on why it does n what's causing it. But so I don't spend to much money apart from throwing a brand new afm on ( I have 3 afm's and I'm running what one felt the best) or putting splitfires on it is there a way to actually test what's causing it to hit limp mode?
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Hellafunctional 31!!!! After checking EVERYTHING, didn't have a bend in the intake off of the turbo and it was stuffing up the afm readings
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Well the loom we're assuming now is s1 33 stagea automatic or 4wd having some loom issues sorted most of them out vct's playing up a little but what's happening is the tps isn't staying closed loop when you get off the throttle. So it idle but as soon as you start cracking the idle when you back off it'll drop below idle then raise back up. Checked afm, vacuum etc and had the lap top plugged into it and read that the icv's getting a mixed signal and the tps loops flickering. Lol Makes me leaugh hearing about 'the extra cubes" and talking about rb 25's hahahaha.
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Real offsets? Or is that another Rota dig that I've heard a million times? =P