mickr33couple

I will deff be in contact with the engine builder to get measurements on the clearance

Yes I know to get the oil pressure set right but been a nitto oil pump its only a matter of removing a spring and shiming the other.... Nitto recommend not to remove a spring but been a 120psi unit everyone says its way too much... Ill find out what the clearance are, but if it helps its got acl race series bearings

The pistons skirts had cut outs on the bottom of the pistons already but coz the old motor destroyed the oil squirters (different engine builder) this engine builder has desided to grub screw them out, this will give more oil pressure I believe, Yes engine builder said that the 120 psi is way to high and that's why he removed one giving it 75psi plus the 1 shim

No idea why the squirters were removed, and can't really sack him as the engine is built already Any advise on why should sack him? The oil squirters are to cool the bottom of the pistons correct? But think he said using forged pistons wouldn't need the squirters

Hi all, I'm wanting to know from the people that have try or use a nitto pump, did you just use the oil pump how it came with both springs still in it? If so what sort of psi are you seeing on cold start, warm idle, and 7000rpm? If you have used a nitto oil pump but have removed 1 spring? How is the psi on cold start, warm idle, and 7000rpm My engine builder told me the 120psi is too much plus with my engine having the piston squirters blocked there will be more pressure in there, so he has removed 1 spring plus put 1 shim in the other Let me know how you have gone about your nitto pump Cheers

Hi as title says chasing a sump and pick up western Sydney area thanks

Few photos of the motor, sump getting built then she ready too go open to offers

Do you have a close up of it mate so I can see the shape of it?

Yep, coz I wanna buy a house next year at some stage so it's either the r33 that gets sold or my other show car, Just thought someone may want the car with only a few is on it before I start driving it as its gonna be my daily, I have all receipts for all the work and parts, If it doesn't sell I know I'm more then gonna be happy to daily it and love the power to not sell it after that lol

Motor is built and back together, waiting on 9l gated baffled sump then drop it back in in the new year

Hmmmm not sure how far the 9l is gonna hang down Just want this thing going, motor is bak together waiting for sump 2weeks

Hmmm now I'm thinking I should of just went the 7l sump and send the rest of the money on other stuff

Abr33 what kind of setup you have on your r33? Oil pump? Larger sump? Catch can? Drain to sump etc etc and restritors

Are you not emptying the stock sump running a high flow pump and with no restritors? Do you have any other oil control? I've been told a nitto pump would empty a 6.5l and I should get a 9l and mine is only a street car not drifter or track or anything

How is yours going for oil pressure with the inner removed? My engine builder has removed the inner spring and added a shim... My restritors are block centre, 1.5mm rear I believe!! The car is just a street daily driver will see street pulls and boost here and there So you have a nitto pump and have left the standard restritors in? And not having any oiling problems? I was gonna get a 9l sump made up as I was even told that in one case a guy had a nitto pump on standard sump and empty the sump in 40secs at full throttle... Was also told 6.5l wouldn't be enough

want these gone offers

Where abouts in Sydney? S1 grille still for sale and no clips broken?

If I bought a stock motor and drop it in and drove it it would of been less then 5k easy including buying the car that came with High mount manifold Plenum Hybrid turbo Hybrid FMIC Power fc with hand controller D2 coilovers Fuel reg 044 pump Plus what was in the motor, motor was rebuilt 2000kms ago before I got it, so what was still good Full serviced head with head studs Brand new water pump and tensions 256 cams and adjustable cam gear Je pistons So I think what I paid for it was good also has rego too And it was always gonna be built for Big power

Lol first of all mate, I bought the car off a mate, already knowing something was wrong with it, etc (head was already removed from car) no one new what could be wrong with it and on purchase I knew it could turn out to be a f**ked bottom end, and it doesn't bother me as I paid for the car at a low price (what some people would pay for rego and insurance) I only had to build the bottom end, but I've also gone with nitto rods nitto oil pump ho volume sump new garret gt3540 new plenum new throttle body

Hi all chasing a 8.5l hi volume sump and pick up ASAP got cash waiting

Nitto web site says you can remove the inner spring which will give a 75psi crack off pressure Do you reckon that would be the go? But nitto do not recommend to do it

Cheers man, builder is going with block one and 1x1.5 So running the nitto pump at 120psi will be ok? Not sure if that's at full noise or cold start, nitto site just says crack off pressure

Pretty much, everyone ops to go the tomei, greddy, nitto pumps for stronger materials that are used while building these pumps which are stronger then the n1 pumps that are always breaking, on idle and under heavy loads, I went straight to a nitto pump as I didn't wanna risk breaking a n1 pump and rebuilding my motor again

Items are in Sydney, penrith area

I believe it fits all man rb20 rb25 rb26