ToF

I don't follow... : But think about this situation: 2 cars approach the roundabout at the same time... refer to pic Now say we follow the stupid law to give way to traffic ALREADY INSIDE the roundabout, well in that case no one is in there... cars A and B are legally allowed to rush into the roundabout at the SAME TIME in an attempt to be the first... now if you think about it, how safe is that? Let's make it a bit more real, add cars C and D respectively, now when you think about it, if they all go in at once and don't make contact I guess that saves everyone time but I seriously doubt if all 4 rushed in there would be no accident. OK, apply the age old logical rule to it, give way to the right. Well car A must give way to B, which means only 1 car goes through at a time in this example, which imo is safer. As much as we like to get to places quicker sometimes actually have to give way, everyone has to give way at least once in their daily drive... EDIT: I can see a situation you might ask about... OK say all 4 cars get to the roundabout at the same time, using the give way to the right would mean no one would go... the giving way would just keep getting looped around and around. I guess in that case one of the cars must make a move so the others can continue... But it is still a lot safer than all 4 rushing in imo.

Love the styling of 6 (Best out of the lot) alot but it seemed to simplistic and had no Australian theme. Tbh I really wanted to choose 6 but 2 was my second choice and it was just as great, lots of pics not over the top, blended in well... it also has the 32s on Bathurst.

According the Vehicle Standards document from VicRoads I gathered 2 requirements: 1. Must have sufficient padding. 2. Must not be reflective (ie. chrome) as it could impair your vision while driving. There probably is more if you read into it more.

Ok I had this problem... The solution was so easy I couldn't believe it when I found out. I had the exact same problem and one night I accidently tapped my reverse lamps only to find it flicker. So I took it out and found out the cable had been rubbing on the rear bar support bar and ate away the rubber so it was shorting to the body. Not sure where the reverse lights are on the 33 but if it is anything like the 32 it's worth a quick look.

I had this dilema a while back - needed to replace the PS reservoir to PS pump hose but no one had it obviously being an import. When I gave up I went to Nissan only to find out it was $140 just for that hose : So off to Enzed I went and got some decent hosing and some fittings. Probably ended up costing me 30 bucks total.

Or your could just buy a stock OEM replacement by Ryco/Wesfil. TBH it looks better quality than the Apexi panel filters which just look like a tissue with Apexi printed on it. The Ryco/Wesfil filter is the same as the VR/VS Commo one - part no. A360.

I go by giving way to the right... because it logically makes sense. Who ever made the law to give way to traffic already in the roundabout is stupid - all it causes is people trying to beat each other into the roundabout and hence causes more confusion and probably accidents. Makes absolutely no sense at all and if I were to follow this road law I think I would of pissed of so many people already because like I said I'd just rush through to claim I was first in.

Nah it stopped sounding like a WRX because for the most part it is running on all 6 but it just has that misfire randomly every second. I took it for test drive and it certainly goes fine if you know what I mean .

OK an update. So far I've glued up the coilpacks with Sikaflex and cut my coilpack cover so there's more ventilation. I've sanded/cleaned all the contacts on the ignitor module and coilpack cover to make the earth a bit better. I also have new copper plugs gapped at 0.8mm. Now it started all good for about a minute but then it changed. Now when idling it will misfire (not sure if that is the right term?). The car still runs alright but when I rev and hold it at 2000rpm and you can still hear it missing regularly (small pops in the exhaust - btw: this is not the pop from excess fuel). Basically it isn't fully dropping a cylinder but its sort of half misfiring it about once every second. Tomorrow I might check which coilpack is misfiring but for now does anyone have any other theories on what else could be at fault?

What you could do is simply go to all the manufacturer websites and get their logos in jpg or gifs and just trace it in Illustrator. Not that hard.

Yes

Yer I did get new plugs. And I am going to clean and glue my coilpacks tomorrow but as I said I already checked the resistance on all the coilpacks and it turned out 1.3ohms.

Not really, all similar condition - lots of carbon build up but not excessive amounts, I reckon they are OK. What do you think about my coilpacks? I mean 1.3 isn't impressive but would the fact that I got that value mean that my coilpacks are OK? I will glue my coilpacks and clean the contacts tomorrow and then see how it goes but if it still happens I guess I'm left with the ignitor module right?

I'm about to go get new spark plugs even though my old ones weren't cracked or anything but I decided to test resistance in my coilpacks and they all read 1.3 ohms : According the manual they should be 0.6-0.9... Anyone think 1.3 is still OK?

I was thinking the same thing but it's kind of hard to check with the cover there. I might chop it and then check it. Any idea how much a 2nd hand or new ignitor module would cost roughly (if it is the cause)?

Yer the current plugs I got are iridiums but they were from the previous owner and I don't know how old they are.... could be 100,000km old for all I know LOL (didn't bother to change them when I serviced it after I bought it). I was thinking about glueing the coilpacks as well as getting new spark plugs as well so I'll have a search for that thread... but won't the glue just melt under the heat? I'll be using Sikaflex 221 (I think?). Also to add more info, I just went to move my car so it's still cold, but it started on 6 then suddenly cut to 5 and then back to 6 and then 5, kept doing that a couple times for 10 seconds then just stayed on 5. This was while it was pretty cold... so yer. Bloody cars!!!

Thanks for confirming that. Also I checked the spark plug I thought wasn't firing yesterday and it wasn't cracked, but I'll try your suggestion first since it's the cheapest

WTF? Are you serious it's that simple? Because I don't want to get new plugs and then the same thing happens and I foul up the plugs again. :

Hey guys, Long story short, my car was running on 5 cylinders yesterday after driving for 30 minutes. It has done this a couple of times already but I want to fix it now. This morning I went to start it and it was running on 6 therefore its pretty clear that it is a heat problem! Now I know something is dieing once its hot but what could it be? a. Coilpacks b. Ignitor pack c. CAS?? (Would it have anything to do with this at all?? Maybe someone who is more knowledgable could enlighten me? ) I would replace one by one until it fixes it as everyone does but I don't have money . So could anyone please narrowdown the list for me? Thanks all

The chime unit should be located under the dash. After you've pulled the bottom plastic cover (near your leg) just listen where it's coming from or unplug one at a time until it stops.

The BOV law is there because venting to atmosphere changes your car's emissions. I cbf explaining properly but I'm sure you all know that if the AFM reads X cfm amount of air has gone into your motor and the ECU dumps in fuel for X cfm of air. Now if you have a BOV then the actual air in the intake is less than what is read by the AFM right since you've vented it? So that creates a rich mixture hence more emissions. Try to learn why the laws are in place before slagging it off. And the answer to the initial question of this thread is simple. Don't want to get defected? Then drive a RWC or non-defectable vehicle or don't drive your defectable vehicle. Simple!

From the Dayco site: Jan 1990 - Dec 1993, 2.0L, 6 cyl, 24V, DOHC, MPFI, Turbo, HR32, GTS-T, EngCode: RB20DET, Import Part number Application 4PK0855 Belt Alt 4PK0950 Belt P/S 4PK0925 Belt A/C DT19E Thermostat DTG18 Gasket (Paper Type) DTG45 Gasket (Rubber Type)

The search function doesnt bite you... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...109058&hl=reset http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=13711&hl=reset

Hmmm... my belt is squeeling on some cold starts but I can't be bothered to pull everything apart just to get to the adjuster bolt. Anyone know what's the worst that can happen with loose belts?

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