ToF

If the motor changes speed while driving then I'm pretty sure it won't have anything to do with the AAC valve or air regulator.

Could be as simple as the AAC valve or air regulator. I suggest you look into these simple things first before spending money on a mechanic to diagnose it.

Dayco make stock OEM replacement belts and other parts. You can check on their website under applications for the part numbers. http://www.dayco.com.au Any car retailer (Autobarn, Repco, Bursons etc) should have these in stock. I've already checked for you but there seems to be comflicting results: Skyline Aug 1993 - Mar 1998, 2.5L, 6 cyl, 24V, DOHC, MPFI, Turbo, R33, EngCode: RB25DET, Import Part number Application 4PK0850 Belt Alt 3PK0850 Belt P/S 4PK0810 Belt A/C 94988 Belt Cam DT19E Thermostat DTG18 Gasket (Paper Type) DTG45 Gasket (Rubber Type) Jan 1993 - Nov 1998, 2.5L, 6 cyl, 24V, DOHC, MPFI, Turbo, GTS-T, HR33, EngCode: RB25DET, Import Part number Application 4PK0855 Belt Alt 3PK0855 Belt P/S 4PK0915 Belt A/C DT19E Thermostat DTG18 Gasket (Paper Type) DTG45 Gasket (Rubber Type)

Exhaust stud being snapped may cause exhaust to leak and that might be the noise. I can't really describe the noise an exhaust leak is, but you should know what the sound is if you've driven a car with a broken turbo gasket before.

Mate, you have really cool parents!

Apparently the "Type M" was a dealership option which means each dealer would of offered different upgrades. But most common upgrades were the 4 pot calipers on the front, the Aero front bar, side skirts and rear pods. Also digital climate control units. I wish mine got it .

BTW: Even though it shouldn't concern you since you didn't even post the link.... "hicas_posse" was "Last Active: Yesterday, 06:52 PM". "anexiole's" post was at "Yesterday, 06:54 PM"

LOL, you didn't even post it??

Actually if I recall correctly from the Vehicale Standards document or such from VicRoads, you are only allowed to have white light emitted from the front of your vehicle (except for the indicators). So basically any light that isnt white is NOT permitted. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Direct link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=74022 BTW: Try not to type in caps next time

Why the different rim diametres? (18 and 17)

Mate, that picture is so painful to look at.

Go for it, just don't blame me if something goes wrong! Tip, when you take off the valve from the intake plenum, be careful, try to keep the gasket in one piece. Mine was stuck on the plenum in perfect condition so I didn't have to replace mine.

Mmmm, didn't make any difference to performance but idle correction was a bit more responsive after I readjusted the idle. It used to take a while for the valve to correct the idle after switching on the A/C or whatever, but after I readjusted the idle it seems to be more quicker so I guess the cleaning did do something? Either way, it's not a very hard task so it's just good to clean things out given that they are 15 years old.

Nah, I didn't clean it that thoroughly. I just took off the soleniod and then sprayed carby cleaner around everywhere to get the carbon deposits off. I managed to clean every hole pretty well without disassembling it more.

Hahaha! BTW if you don't mind me asking... Have you ever been defected by another cop?

So I guess 88 bucks for labor per caliper is reasonable?? Either way I will most likely get Dr Drift to check them out and deal with it because ABS seem a little dodgy.

IMO they don't look similar to LM-GT4s at all. I think these are just the common "Drift-Tek" or "D-Spec" rims going around.

As the topic suggests, I would like to know if you should machine your rotors when getting new brake pads and why. Thanks guys.

I have to say it's hard to believe a cop would have such a nice car, they usually hate our cars.

I believe you just have to pull the 4WD fuse out on the R32s.

If you put it in neutral that would use more fuel according to my understanding. When you put it in neutral the motor has to dump fuel in to stop the car from stalling. If you are rolling down a hill or rolling towards the lights in gear you are using less fuel because your motor is turning itself from the momentum of your wheels. I think most ECUs cut fuel on deacceleration. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Front springs should be harder due to the motor being in the front I believe.

Umm... I just went to get a quote by my local ABS centre today. They quoted me $300 + parts for the strip and over-haul of my 2 front calipers and flush and bleeding. That's drive in and drive out. I asked for the price if I just brought the calipers in, $88 + parts each. Just wondering if you guys think $88 is reasonable?

Just wondering how hard is it to replace the sender because in my R32 the guage is basically useless. It is very laggy, ie. you can take off from the lights and get to the speed limit, be sitting on 2,500rpm and then after a while you slowly see the needle move up, even then it doesn't move up to the right amount. My mate has an R31 and his stock oil pressure guage is very responsive, reacts to throttle instantly. Am I right to assume it's meant to operate like that? (And that my sender could be stuffed)