ToF

Sorry I can't help with the part numbers but are you sure they charged $110 for the exhaust manifold to engine gasket. I've got an RB20 but mine only cost 85 bucks and the manifold to turbo gasket cost 30 bucks. And generally if they have competent staff then they will check it up on FAST for you if you just ask for the parts. I never go in with part numbers because when I used to, they had updated their numbers so mine were always useless. If you live near Frankston go to Gary Lechte Nissan, they are very helpful despite the fact you own an import and I'm assuming they don't charge full RRP.

Thanks blind_elk

Yep, Nissan will have them in stock!

You can get them from anywhere (obviously not Autobarn or Supercheap, etc), but I got mine from Nengun because they were considerably cheaper.

Thanks for the replies guys. I just wasn't sure because the instructions Endless gave said otherwise. For anyone looking for bedding instructions I found them here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=32849

Haha, I usually tell that to others with common questions like my own, but I have tried searching and couldn't find anything relevant... or maybe my searching skills just suck.

My idle in my 32 has been a bit wierd at times so I've decided I want to clean out the AAC valve. I haven't take it off yet but while I'm here I thought I might ask for some info. I just want to know what I should expect when I take it off the plenum and how to actually clean it properly. Also, after I clean it and put it back on, is there an idle screw or something I can adjust my base idle with. Thanks

I'm sure my oil department is fine, the stock oil pressure guage/sender unit is a common problem with R32s. Anyone else have any other ideas or explaination for this?

I haven't put my pads in yet but when I do am I suppose to bed them in? I'm not sure because on the instructions it says: What do you guys reckon?

Didn't you find the answer yourself in: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=104460

Does this place do the whole job or do we have to take off the caliper ourselfs and drop it off to them? Either way could you let me know their contact details. Thanks

May I ask what the other issues are? Because my gearbox seems to be on the way out, not sure if it's related but. My gearbox makes a metal rubbing noise (really hard to describe) when I back off the throttle in 2nd or 3rd. Also when I changed my gearbox oil there were huge metal parts attached to the drain plug. :lol:

Yer I just saw the promo... It looks like they are recycling the story they did last year.

My clutch in my 32 is starting to slip slightly as boost hits in 3rd and really badly in 4th now. Just wondering how long I can keep driving it before it becomes undrivable because I'm not ready to fork out money for the job yet. Is there any way of getting the clutch to last as long as possible? (Also anyone know how much a workshop generally charges to change the clutch? Also can you change your rear main seal at the same time?) Thanks guys.

My oil level is perfect and my stock oil pressure guage doesnt work properly so no point looking at that.

Nah mate, I just started it then, the weather wasn't too hot or cold. But it was a "cold start". The car isnt blowing any smoke (at least I don't think) and isnt lacking any power. And the coolant is very clear, definately not contaminated!

Hey guys, Today I had the car started and idling for a while and I noticed condensation in the pipes to the oil catch can (I have clear hoses). I am a little worried as it has never happened before. I opened the oil cap on the rocker cover and had a look but the oil was fine, doesn't seem to be any coolant or milky oil from what I can see. I also checked oil on the dipstick which was also fine. So does anyone know what it means when there's condensation in your oil catch can hoses?

Well, I ended up getting my front pads . I must say their service is still good, when I sent an email to explain the situation I got a reply back on the same day! They kept me up to date while they tracked down my part and so fourth. A bit annoyed at the whole thing, but then again everyone can make mistakes and I was very satisfied with the way they handled it. Not sure if I'd order through them again if it was for something urgent though, but their prices are pretty good.

No it is definitely 114.3.

...and also look like a tool. :lol:

Damn, thats really lucky!

Opposite in VIC. U-Turns are permitted unless otherwise posted in most cases I believe.

Is it really that hard to decide between those two??? <_<

Actually according to the R32 manual, the RB20DET's factory value is 170psi and actual limit value is 128psi. The allowed variance between cylinders is 14.2psi.... I doubt anyone with a 15 year old engine is going to get 170psi.

I don't really understand what you did but when I wanted to try it, I got a sheet of metal and cut it up in the same shape as the gasket between the BOV and hotpipe and placed it there. When you do this, don't think you can remove all lines and hoses from the BOV otherwise you will create a vacuum leak since the big pipe goes right back to the intake pipe. Anyway, thats how I did it, but tbh the BOV is there from the factory for a reason, not for "hektic fludddar", but it's your car so it's your choice.