ToF

Sorry to dig up an old thread, figured it's better than posting a whole new topic. Today I just put in a new headunit, very simple process, but I didn't have enough cabling for my speakers so I decided to just wire them up to the stock speaker wires. The problem now is I don't know if I have the stock amp you mention of. Is it actually round or is it more of a box with wires going in and out of it? If it is can anyone give me any tips on how to bypass this, ie. a wiremap of the amp so I can just join the input to output? Thanks guys BTW: Thanks to everyone who posted here, very helpful!

How is $160 (for non-members) for a full day of drifting on a fun track expensive? Maybe Calder's cheaper? LOL

Check your Throttle Position Sensor. A TPS not adjusted correctly will make the transition between 0 throttle to any throttle rough and vice versa. Although your problem sounds like there could be more to the story.

Hey, I might be getting some new rims but the problem is they have brand new Wanlis on the front. I just want to know if anyone on here has had any experience with them. I have some on my drift rims as RWC tyres on the back but that's about all they are good for + drift. But seriously I highly doubt these tyres would rate highly in grip??? Front grip is kind of important to me, I think everyone on here would agree. Thanks

That is so stupid and fkn retarded. This generation is seriously f**ked.

Dayco (www.dayco.com.au) is the brand that manufactures OEM replacement belts and other components. Your local Repco/Bursons/Autobarn/Supercheap should have them in stock. Get the belt numbers off your old belts and go look in those stores, you can get any brand of belt, they are all the same.

Yes search, but... 1) If you want your motor to last for your wastegate fluddarz yes, you should run 98 octane fuel. 2+3) If you're running stock boost, you should stick to the stock BOV.

I believe the authorities, ie RTA/VicRoads, go by the engine number/model. Hence removing anything from the motor won't change the situation. They still see it as a turbo motor, they couldn't care less what you've "modified". As Jimbo2000 has suggested, you are probably best off to go and buy a GTS and rice that up. (Really pains me to say that but I guess everyone has different tastes )

Read here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=133036 ...more specifically GTST's and other knowledgable members' posts. I guess you can just skip the rice vs. performance bitching and search for "GTST".

LOL Wow, I'm glad GTST put it all out in the open, I could never be bothered or cared to vent THE EXACT same thought's he did. FYI: I bought my car with a pod, but I actually went out and bought a stock airbox and panel filter to replace it. All I can say is state your priorities before you post and if you won't take any advice why post asking for help? If you don't agree with the advice the least you can do is appreciate the fact that someone offered advice! omg br0 listen to me sik wastegate intake fluddarz induction suktion n0ise...

Did you follow it to where it leads to? It's just a vacuum hose, wouldn't know what for but.

Go to a good Nissan dealer that looks after you!

OK, I'll make an educated guess it's the input shaft bearings... can anyone tell me if leaving it rattling will cause any further damage to other parts of the box? Thanks

No such thing as "M Spec" on any models before the R34. There was a Type M dealer option but. TYPE M

Good idea, but would it still be them if the whine is intermittent?

Yes Delvac must be extremely hard to find if no one has answered my question as to where I can find it in Melbourne that was asked twice LOL

Anyone have any more detailed information... "Trans bearing" is kind of too broad for my liking, there are hundreds of bearings in the box, which one is it and will it cause further damage? Thanks guys

You don't get flamed. Redline Shockproof is designed for gearboxes in bad condition that are just about to die. It will fix all your problems for a short amount of time until your gearbox dies. (Trades functionality for life) Apparently Shockproof kills syncros and hence should not be used on new, rebuilt boxes or any boxes that are still in good working condition.

Nah this isn't air related. The whine is directly related to motor speed (RPM). Anyone have any other ideas?

It should be 10psi from the factory but adding a pod/exhaust will increase the boost by 1-2psi due to less restriction. About the power, as per the other thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=131153 110rwkw isn't that low for a stock tired motor, you've got to remember the drivetrain loss as well.

I doubt anything will ever be the same once it's been smashed.

Errr that doesn't sound good.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. 1. It isn't the gearbox, I know this for sure because I just put a new one in and regardless of the input shaft speed (clutch in or out) the whine is still there. So that can be ruled out. 2. I was also thinking it may be coming from the timing belt but as you said you can't check that with the cover over it. Having said this, my timing belt and bearings have only been replaced less than 8 months ago so I highly doubt that would be it. But I really should check to be sure! 3. Clutch fan, not sure if it matters if it's cold or hot but while it was hot I spun the fan and it felt normal, spun freely as usual with no grinding noises. I might check the cold start "roar" tomorrow. What do you think given this new information?

Yes when the clutch is in there is no rattle.

Hey all, Last weekend my mate and I installed a 2nd hand RB20 box. That went all good but once we started it there was a rattle. This rattle is present anytime the input shaft is spinning. ie Any gear while the clutch is out. Can't really tell if it rattles in 4th due to road noise but it definitely rattles in Neutral, 1st and 2nd according to RPM. Other than that it seems there is no whining or that loud bearing (forgot which one) noise with the clutch out which is common for all Skylines. Does anyone know what could be making the rattling noise and if it will cause further damage the more I drive it? Put it simply, is my box f!@#ed? Thanks