DAN-33

Yeap thats how i have the pump wired up already, thanks

Hey there, Been having a on going problem with the mostly stock R33 GTST Quick run down, 95 R33 S1.5, 3" dump, hi flow cat, 3.5" cat back, rest of mechanical's are stock Issue im having is its way down on power, issue first started few years back when it started to lack power under boost. Found out shortly after the 12v relay mod to the fuel pump that the pump was a goner. Replaced with a Walbro Intank pump and the car immediately felt better... for a week. Power died off instantly and month or so later pump died all together. Fast forward a little while and i went with a Bosch intank pump (044? 040?) and a Adjustable FPR with gauge (turbosmart i believe it is) Set the Psi to 43psi with vacuum hose off and motor warmed up., felt a tad better but not to where it was with the walbro when first put in. over the following months i had to adjust the FPR as the pressure kept dropping till the pump decided to not turn on at all. At this point i was fed up and threw a Cheap pump from autobahn in (aeromotive or something like that) its been in since, bout 2 years now but have lucky to put 10k on it and im still down on power, no throttle response, car feels doughy and im back to having dropping fuel pressure. Have recently replaced the exhaust gasket and studs nuts bolts turbo gaskets dump gasket copper washers ect all with genuine parts. was expecting the Car to feel better seeing as i had 5 broken studs and the gasket was missing pieces. Nope... its worse now then what it was before i swapped gasket. Boost gauge is showing 8psi, spool seems to be quick, but im just not feeling that oommph it used to have. Car shows 192k, not sure if motor has ever been replaced, doesnt knock, ping, tick ect, feels smooth, idles well ect. Anything i should be checking before once again changing fuel pump? Thanks

Replaced the alarm module with a new one, same brand so plug and play. seemed good for a week. Battery was flat again this morning. Getting a 0.02 that flutters to 0.03 and 0.04 reading on multimeter for the battery draw. Should that number be solid? and not flutter? Im about ready to drop it off at a auto electrician, its near doing my head in.

Just a heads up, family member is selling his R33, ive put what i know has been done to engine, but there is alot missed out.. Here is a link to the gumtree add http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/trevallyn/cars-vans-utes/1995-r33-rb30-25-e85-400rwkw/1018190089 Price is very negotiable, unsure on what its worth in the current car market so any input be good Dan

Try to replace or borrow so know working Coil packs, from what i gather and own experience they fail over time and cause all sorts of weird shit..

Yeah i got a charger, just trying to pin point the problem so i can get it fixed, anyway of testing the back up battery in the siren? maybe its cactus and pulling power from battery?

yeah alarm is all disconnected and has no power to it, im hoping anyway. Battery is new, 330cca, unsure of the other numbers though, bigger then the previous battery i know that much. Im guessing the alarm spikes every few minutes when connected and slowly drains battery, as starter just clicks after 2 days

yeah this alarm is shit house, even with all the fuses out i can still start car, but i still have to press button on key chain. I got a feeling there is another power source for it somewhere.

yeah thats what causes most of the drain Mate, 2 posts up i said i removed the 4 fuses for the alarm, guess i should have put its a immobiliser as well haha. My other R33 reads 0.03 drain and it never goes flat, even after no start in 2 weeks. so in theory the 0.01 from this 33 should mean it shouldnt go flat.... "shouldnt" Odd thing is i had removed the fuses to alarm/imm over the weekend and it was still flat.. hmm.

been connected for 30 mins now, solid at 0.01 for battery drain, unsure if thats normal or not though

Battery tests at 12.65V fully charged When engine running its 14.22V, Drops to 9.57V on crank then bumps up to 14.22. With lights on, AC on, stereo on, and anything else i can put on, and sitting at 2000rpm its 14.17V after car is off, battery reads 12.57v test for battery drain it was fluctuating at 0.05 to 0.07 and every 10 seconds or so it would bash up to 7.00, this is testing on a 20amp setting on multimeter with the multimeter between earth cable and earth terminal on battery. Disconnected the 4 fuses for the Alarm, it sat at a steady 0.03, Removing the what i believe is the power window fuse from under bonnet it drops to 0.01-0.02 Removing the fuse labeled "electrics" going buy a engine translated picture it drops to 0.00 which im assuming is no battery drain what so ever. If anyone can shed some light on this, then great stuff

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/?hl=%20acc%20%20clean

Search the DIY section, think there is a Right up with pics showing how to clean the ACC, its at the back of inlet manifold. 4 bolts i think, few hoses and clips. Pull down, clean, put back on. easy. took me hour going slow.

I know they Chick that owns that, is mega tuff, low and loud. If its the same car that is

nope didnt fix my Issue Alex, Its under the plenum, 2 x 10mm bolts i think, and 2 hoses and a plug. Mine was gunked up, it somewhat helped, but the car wont start without touching throttle unless its already warm, or been sitting in sun half day. GTSboy, cleaned all that, that helped the idle alot as it was on 500rpm when warm, fixed all that, reset TPS position etc etc.

Fun manual turbo import for under 4k, really cant go wrong imo. if its a car you plan on flipping for a profit later on, wont happen sadly, not sure what car sales are like where you are, but hardly anything sells where i am. its all swaps. Seen 2or 3 R33's sell for under 4500 here with your average mods, exhaust, FMIC, pod, hecktic skidders on rear. its one of those "you get what you pay for" things.

i got same problem, have to feather the throttle for 4-5 seconds before the auto chock kicks in and sits at 1600rpm. Ive cleaned out the cold start valve under the inlet manifold, unsure where to go next

Inboxed ya Bud

Any Left?

Have read something to do with the ECU relays, ECU stays grounded or something and thinks its still on. so flattens battery. I have bought a Multi meter, so will check battery and Alternator ASAP.

Thank you, one down Yes will get alt tested asap, still dont understand whats causing battery to go flat though when im not driving.

Still doesnt explain why i freshly charged brand new battery went flat after 2 days of no driving. i literally put it in, turned key, it fired up. i shut it down and left it. 2 days later, wouldnt crank, just couple starter clicks. stereo worked for a second or 2 and then wouldnt turn back on. connect jump pack and it fires up like its a fresh battery,

First up, not sure if this belongs in this section, so bare with me. i got a 95 R33 manual turbo rah rah rah, bone stock engine wise and body, just has some coilovers and swaybars, braces etc. Im having issues with the Battery going flat after 2 days of no use. Ive replaced the battery, battery leads and terminals, disconnected the stereo, disconnected the key hole light around ignition as it would stay on when door closed and locked. boot light disconnect as ive read they can go faulty. removed the turbo timer as the screen shit itself and stopped working (was working great intill electrical gremlins came in) i had to removed a lot of unused wiring from a car pc install, was wires taped into the cluster, and fuse box, random shit here and there. from what i gather now its all bone stock wiring wise minus the alarm and boost gauge. just seems everything electrical is playing up, is it normal for all the dash lights, and clock and stereo to Dim when light puts on? I havnt tested the alternator to see if its charging, but i put a brand new fresh charged battery in and it was flat in 2 days. Any idea's on what to check, how to do it would be great, worse case is ill drop it off at a auto electrician, but would rather try fix it myself if possible. Thanks

Sell passenger indicator? PM me if so

that black bit is a GFB boost controller, should have a allen key screw in top. screw it all way in till it just bottoms out, then wind out 3 turns, go for drive, adjust for desired boost. i got one running 10psi, goes fine. cheap, but so was the car and its a weekend hack.