NIZ180

there was alot of things upgraded over the life of the 180sx. The edition of ABS and hicas as standard in some models as well as leather and the above mentioned tail lights and interior. Also the black top SR was released to replace the red top.

best to use dry type filters anyway as the oiled ones will mess with your AFM over time.

is this one of those stainless mesh type??? also how big is the inlet?? email some pics [email protected]

I have heard alot about the RE711. they have layers apparently so even when the tyre is worn it still grips like 5hit to a blanket. Next tyre change I will be giving these a go.

the S14/15, rear hubs are straight bolt on. As for the fronts you have a couple of choices - you can use the entire S14 stub axle inc lower control arms and bolt them straight on, this wheel give you 10mm more track at the front. Or you can go aftermarket hubs which bolt stgraight on, Tokyo toys manufacture replacement hubs for the S13's. If you have any more questions let me know.

Dude nearly everyone who deals in bodykits have them. Try the following local guys - Ares Speed Blits Motorsport DMD AutoBarn - yes thats right Auto Barn, they sell genuine I know a few more but just can't think at the moment, hope this helps. Just thought I'd mention to make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing when you get it fitted.

I have a set of FM901's on the 180sx and they are about 9 months old still heaps of tread left on them and should last a year easy. I highly recommend them. Also checkout Bridgestone RE711, Falken FK451 which are around about the same price range.

Just a little side note you can download a full version of systran pro premium off winmx

I can tell you that the a tomei 2.2L SR is 1,200,000 yen not sure about the RB25DET Here you go found it Rb25det Phase 3 [ 2556 CC] Main body price: 1,250,000 (taking guaranty money engine: 300,000 under other way) Conformity model:EC R33 Phase The engine which uses the piston, the crank and the connecting rod for the R B26 for 2, furthermore assures torque rise -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Main tuning part * standard setting Piston Xdph 87.0 for tomei rb26 Camshaft IN Tomei 260 - 10.25 (Solid) EX Tomei 260 - 10.25 (Solid) Connecting rod Tomei H section Crankshaft NISSAN genuine R B26 Head gasket Tomei Valve spring Tomei B-TYPE Valve guide Tomei pbb Metal Crank Nismo Connecting rod Tomei Adjustment pulley Tomei aluminum Solid lifter Tomei Oil gallery orifice Tomei Timing belt Tomei strengthening Plug Denso iridium Thermostat Nismo Water pump NISSAN genuine R B26 N1 Oil pump NISSAN genuine R B26 N1 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Principal tuning Skid base disassembly & assembly Dummy head equipped boring horning/honing Head balancing plane research Port step attaching correction Block appearance correction grinding Crank warping correction Crank balance Crank lapping Connecting rod weight adjusting Valve grinding Seat cutting Valve set long adjusting Valve guide exchange Valve timing adjustment Valve clearance adjustment Combustion room capacity adjustment N1 water pump installation processing Block paint Head cover paint -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Attachment Owners books (specification) Name plate (serial No. Carving) Sticker x 2

If you want an awesome clutch without paying the hefty price tag go see Nicks Clutch in Coopers Plains. He will also take time to explain the different options so that you can make an informed decision. He recently done my mates silvia so I can vouch for the work.

correct me if i'm wrong but i believe the RB20 ones are top feed and the RB25 ones are side feed.

i just did a service and i used castrol syntrax 75w-90 full synthetic gearbox oil and a tube of nulon G70. the syntrax is a ****loads better than the vmx80 and cost about triple the price. Not as expensive as redline which was way too dear $140 for 1 gallon/ 3.7L. I must say that the box is sooo much smoother now even in the morning. Give it a go you will not regret it.

a kevlar button or full face clutch would be good. Not as harsh as a brass button but still hooks up nice and last longer than an organic. Just make sure you don't have any oil leaks as kevlar don't like oil at all.

hahaha you crazy mofo. I know the road well and have had a few scary moments there aswell in my younger days. I actually crashed my 4wd down the bottom near the factories a long long time ago.

Please tell me more about what happened as I work for them as the IT Support Tech and can try and find out what the hell happened and get something done for you. PM me if you prefer and i will see what i can do.

hell yeh!!!! please do tell which car was yours at drag combat. Saw some really nasty GTR's there.

full face organic just means that it is like the stock clutch plate, i.e full face and made from organic material. You should specify a higher pressure plate like 2400lbs or such and maybe even steel backing on the clutch plate. As for driving the car with a slipping clutch, I did it and was shocked when we pulled it out. The actual clutch/friction plate was fine and had heaps of meat left but the pressure plate and flywheel where toast. It is not a good idea to ride a button clutch.

you can adjust offset with spacers. If you can get the mags with the right offset that would be a better option and legal i might add. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/nissans13/fi...les/offset1.jpg a 35mm offset would be fine.

these are the specs you should be going by, taken from the takakaira site. Just try and get wheels that are of similar size and you should be right. 5 hole 114.3mm PCD Front - 8.0x17, 31 offset Rear - 9.0x17, 38 offset Front - 8.5x18, 37 offset Rear - 9.5x18, 42 offset

I got rid of my axle tramp by softening up my TEINs in the rear. Its not really a good idea to have them on the hardest setting

car is now in the hands of Carb'n'Ject at underwood who are authorised autronic dealers. Engine is also going in at JHH performance engineering for a rebuild, nothing to spectacular just head gasket, pistons, mild head work. Can't remember what els my friend said but it is going to be built for a reliable 250rwkw. thanks for the offer boostmeister but my freind is after someone close to his work so he can drop in and check how things are going.

my friend got a AVC-R landed at his door for a grand total of $850 from takakaira. There are many ways to avoid paying all those charges. I'm pretty sure nengun has a few up his sleeve. also Nengun i have shot you over a pm on some parts i am after thanks.

GTR blue with a metalic flake thru it. There is a silvia running around brissy at the mo with the same paint job, looks very nice. I think Arespeed did the work not to sure.

Merli, It says on the box 0.6mm the Iridium IX say 0.8mm

I'm running NGK iriway 7's and they are awesome. I paid $18 each. They are not like the normal iridiums IX they come gapped at 0.6mm and come in colder heat ranges 7,8,9. NGK state that you shouldn't regap iridiums. If anyone wants a set of NGK IRIWAY, IRITOP, IRIMAC spark plugs drop me an email and i will hook you guys up. BTW I am not selling them i just know a guy who imports them. Also www.onautos.com.au sell the iridium IX plugs for $14.50 each anyone who pays more than that is getting ripped.