MANWHORE

Yeah, definitely. When I first got my skyline, I used motul dot 5.1. After a while, I was like why bother - needs to be changed more frequently even though it only costs $1 more than dot 4.1. I'm not too worried about the cost, since they're only around 10-13$ a bottle for motul dot 5.1, its just the hassle of changing it. I've never boiled super dot 4, even on the track, so its good enough for me

HID kits are generally very glary to on going drivers, have poor light output, and are a waste of money. I've done a fair bit of research in this area. If I was you, I would return the kit. Cheers

That's a h1 bulb in a holder. Simple The r ugly poos that used h1s used a holder that made the base look like a h4

Glad to hear that you got it sorted out. Hopefully the squeel doesn't come back

there are actually two oil and two water. The return oil line is the big one underneath. Oil feed is the one on the top. The ones on the side are water why?

Modifications are not really a part of doing a roadworthy pinkslip. Generally, if your tyres are good, all lights are fine, etc, you pass. If they annoy you, tell them to piss off, and go to the next bloke down the street. A pink slip is only 25-30$. Most places won't spend more than about 2 minutes doing it. They have better things to spend their time on

Instead of buying one with unknown history etc, pick up one of my housings, and get that highflowed. Then you have a brand new one that you know will work.

dave, let me use your old cas when you change it - need to see if mine is faulty or not

no

Far out man, what a question - shouldn't have any troubles putting one on an RB? you've listed changing every single thing related to the turbo. Couldn't possibly be anymore difficult could it? Manifold, dump, intercooler piping, oil feed and return, modification to water feed and return. Could it get any harder? Honestly, there are better options out there that are easier to fit and better priced

I've changed cas before. It's a piece of cake. Never tried the plastic one though. What cas is that plastic one? Is there something wrong with your old one? I want to try out a new cas on my car to see if the cas is affecting my timing issue. I'll help you out if you like - free next weekend.

There's no set number. You have to tweak it because it's different on every car.

The exhaust and intake will give you a little bit more power. Maybe around 10-15 rwkw. You won't really feel much though until you start upping the boost. The only reason it'll feel faster is because its louder To up the boost, you really need a front mount intercooler and a fuel pump. Then, one problem that you'll run into is you'll need an ecu + tune because it'll run into rich and retard because the stock ecu can't recognise the airflow

The track should be the last of your concerns right now. Going to the track is the easiest way to lose all your money. No matter how careful you are, there is alwlays the risk of you coming back with no car, or with a blown motor, shagged gearbox etc. Everytime I go to the track, i'm prepared to come back with nothing. But what you're doing now is perfectly ok. There's no problem how you spent time working on your car. The problem is spending money working on your car. e.g. If you have some parts at home, there's no problem installing them into your car. The problem is still spending money while you're majorly in debt. There's no point spending money, because the bank will just take your car off you anyways. PS: Its better that you come to the realisation, that although the car may be 'worth' 14k+ to you, it is not worth 14k to the bank. I just put your car into redbook and got these results: Average Private Price+ $8,250 - $11,250 Trade In Price Guide+ $6,550 - $9,000 The bank will not try and do a private sale and spend 12 months looking for an enthusiast. They will flog it off straight away. Keep in mind, this is for a working car. If they were to sell your car off now in its current condition, my guess is that you'd get less than the lowest trade in bracket (i.e. <6550). Sad but true. As I said above, even if they take your car, it won't help you. This has happened to many of my friends who have over borrowed or friends who have written off cars they've borrowed money for. They end up with NO CAR repaying money on SOMETHING THEY DON'T HAVE.

Yeah, no, that's not how its done. You relay the fuel pump. Essentially, the relay triggers when power comes via the fuel pump wires, then you run a power source from the battery, to the pump.

The question that comes to my mind is why is your loan 20k if you only have an r32? Lets say the car is worth 8k, half cut 4k, that's 12 k. You're not the first one to get into this situation. I've known of many of my friends who have taken out too big a loan. Don't borrow more than you can afford to pay back. At the moment, I suppose all you can do, is halt spending money on your car (you shouldn't have gotten into that much debt anyways), and put all your wages on repaying the car off Selling it isn't really an option for you either, because if you sell it, you'll get maybe 8 k for a non working r32with extra parts and still be 12k in debt

Oops, silly me. I didn't read the first post carefully. Just thoguht it was the usual wrong plumbing/faulty actuator

It is not an exhaust freeness problem. You either have a problem with vac hose plumbing or with your actuator. There is absolutely no need to dremel out anything. I've never had any problems, even using highflowed turbos pumping out 20+ psi. Standard size hole is fine.

There's a nice thread in the tutorial section by 'grigor'. Very comprehensive

Resetting the ecu doesn't do much really. The placebo effect is much greater than any real difference

cam cover? you mean the metal cam covers on top of the engine? or do you mean the timing belt cover? You should have both really...

Highflow is a word that is often too loosely thrown around. If you have a look at Ben|1981's troubles with his highflow, you'll know exactly what I mean. I've ripped out numerous highflows from various cars that have just been totally crap for lack of a better word. A highflow is not a highflow. I mean, hell, if you want a crap highflow, give me your turbo, i'll get it machined, and put a set of wheels on and balance it. What is important though is the research that goes into a combination which doesn't surge, makes good power, and has good response (wanting the world really). That is something that I believe that GCG and precision turbos have hit the nail on the head

Wah wah winge winge. I have never been much of a fan of people like that. I mean, if you were idling the car for 5 minutes or something, fair enough. At the end of the day, there is noise everywhere. E.g. I remember once I was mowing the lawn, and I got this hillbilly shouting over the fence quite, i'm trying to work .... PS: Dave, atm, the varex muffler is sold muffler only (well, at least it was based on my last enquiry). Therefore, essentially, you cut the muffler off your old one/make up new piping from the last flange.

too hard to read. GCG/Precision turbos - ball bearing. Great turbos.

You'll lost power quite significantly. It will be quieter though