MANWHORE

sorry, if you don't mind me asking, what are muti grips? i'm interested in doing the same hting as well. i've just bought some spring compressors from supercheap for like $40. Can you trust these do you reckon? it's basically like hooks to grab the spring. any chance of them snapping if shit supercheap quality?

ok, i'll give you a definative answer. BTW, i have a skyline, so i'm not knocking em or anything. Looks wise, i think outside looks a lot better, because it's got those side airvents, with a nice kit, looks juicy. Interior also looks more interesting. Skyline looks like a standard family car inside. Comparing to gtr Performance wise, apart from the awd of the gtr, supra seems to put out more power with stock internals, has a stronger box, and is also lighter than a gtr, therefore more nimble around twisties. Comparing to gtst heaps more power. only a little bit heavier - gtst - 1370, supra, 1440. Handling wise is very similar for both. As most supras and skliynes have aftermarket susp bits, the handling is determined by these. A nice set of coilovers will do very nicely for both, so they are in similar boats. Value for money gtst is value for money around 20 000 will get you a decent 96 gtst. you'd only get a 93 supra probably for that price, and it will be getting tired. you'd be looking at least 25-30 for a newer one. ALso consider this though. Internals are forged. Handle big power. Gtst are not that strong inside. Also, gtst turbos are weak - ceramic turbine. Just stick an ebc into the supra, and fmic, ecu, you'd be pushing low 12s, high 11s with stock turbs. Isn't this what we do with our gtsts and only manage low 13s high 12s. All other mods cost the same as for skylines. e.g. a new turbo is not going to cost anymore - just different flanges, manifold. I've got a gtst, and i'd say the supra would be an upgrade over getting a gtr

what it comes down to, is it seems, most, if not all skyline gearboxes seem to be notchy. If someone more knowledgeable is willing to comment, i believe the synchros get worn very quickly. I get basically the same thing, and i've asked a person who rebuilds gboxes, and he reckons it'll just be like that again after like 20000ks or so. HE also says that r33 gtst boxes are very strong, and if i keep driving it like that, it should still last forever, almost - normal driving that is, not hamfisted drag shifting. I've tried the redline shockproof and motul gear 300. I reckon imo, that gear oil is gear oil, and neither seemed to make any difference.

can you tell me if just one of them would work on a gtst? also, is it the complete kit - that is, includes everything you need for straight bolt on for gts-t?

got a question. Not sure if you're willing to separate the turbs, but can you tell me if i can just take one of them and run it on my gtst? like is it a straight swap like those 2530s that other people have been running?

I pulled out the plugs out of my car. a SII gtst with 60000 ks on the clock. They were iriways gapped at 0.65!!! I do'nt think that anyone on the stock turbo would need to get down to a gap that small at any boosted levels. Before I changed the plugs, i was getting about 250 ks to the whole tank. I'm not sure what the cause of that is, but i've just changed to a set of bcpr5es-11. running stock boost only exhaust and pod. Please advice whether my bad fuel economy was due to that really small gap. I would also get popping before I changed.

don't think that it is so impossible. i've heard it happen to a few people. wrx hoon i believe is one of them. that's why he had to have his engine rebuilt. basically, if you drain the oil through filter paper, you find gritty ceramic. and i'm not familiar with engine internals, but basiclaly, it's ****ed.

"it's missing something shocking" Then buy another one and put it back in???

you can scream, hit your head on the wall. realistically, go to your local locksmith. they can make you a new key from the lock. I've had it done before. worked well. costs about $100 i think from memory. Cheers

trust me dude, it's one screw on either side. can anyone else with a digi cam show this poor fellar. sorry, i don't have camera. I just went and checked again to be sure, and it is a screw. I have a sII gtst

My friend, you've panicked too much. hehehe, it's just simply one screw on either side. about where your back rest is. Cost ya $2 over at mitre 10 etc. hope I was helpful

Hi MANWHOR3 Nice name btw. :wassup: Like I said, I'm not the one selling them. I have just happened to find a supplier willing to do them near cost price. I was told that the extra is really only for his cost to go get them and the fact that he has to buy them in boxes of 50 pairs. I don't have any pics atm, but will try to get some tomorrow (my car is stuck at a carpark after some @#$#@%^ at the carpark decided to let my tyres down) You're welcome to come have a look if you want.

Looking for: R33 Gtr wing, including the boot piece with light. Has to be black and in immaculate condition. That means it does not have to be resprayed. Willing to pay the going price for it. R33 type m rear spats. THat is the piece just behind the rear wheels. ALso preferrably in black, but will take other colours. No damage. Thanks fellars If anyone has these, please text me on 0403 912 122 or pm me, and i'll get back to you

come on fellars...someone must know I need to know which is the odometre wire!

ok, thanks for the info. I'm just thinking what would be the best option for a mates car that has had the front end smashed in. I knew that most front cuts did not come with panels, but i was thinking that if one did, then that would be a simple way to get all the needed parts. YOu know how prices go, like panels are so ****ing expensive from justjap etc. I thought, for about 3000ish, might as well get a whole front with panels then you get an engine + box+turbo+ecu, instead of just panels for $1500-2000 as well as you get the chassis to weld on new pieces in place of busted bits.

when you buy a half cut, do they normally come with panels (bonnet etc for a front cut)? because most people on the forumns do not get panels with their cuts. In that case, why would it be worth buying a front cut? would it be better value to just buy an engine, ecu and gbox? Just wondering because i might be in need of one very soon.

I've got the speedo unit out of my sII gtst. I'm trying to fit a new speedo in. Would anyone be able to post a picture or tell me exactly what each of the coloured wires do? I'm trying to fit a digital speedo, therefore i need to solder the speedo as well as odometre. I've got the speedo working, just don't know which ones are the odometre wire.

pentae...hahaha, you say the r33 and s14 look ugly...um...a silvia? now that is ugly. That's a bloody square box. I have no idea where you get your figues from, but i'll quote you my figures, very little difference: r32 gtst 1290kg 160kW 263Nm 15.0 r32 gtr 1480kg, 353Nm, 13.0 r33 gtst 1370kg 184Kw 294NM 14.4 r33gtr 1530kg 206Kw 368NM 13.2 r34 gtt 1410kg 206Kw 343NM 15.0 r34 gtr 1540kg 206Kw 393NM 13.1 Before you go criticising, considering the gts25, the r33 is the best one. the extra weight is due to larger motor, brakes, etc, wider wheel base, better gbox. All in all, better and faster. The r34 gtt has more power and torque, but is once again faster, and is slower than the r33. All in all, the r33 gts-t is the best. In terms of gtr, have you noticed that the difference in weight comes with an increase in power and torque? The difference in speed that we are talking is minimal. Just .1 or .2 on the 1/4. how consistent are you anyway? less than .1 difference every time? you'd hardly notice it. The r32 is a POS with that gay slow attessa, unless you get the v spec. I had one and i don't like it. I much rather the r33 gtr. much better driving as well as looks

will it fit sII?

I've recently spoken to a supplier who can get us a really good price on headlight globes. I've used the PIAA globes, and although they look blue, they are not very bright (the bluer, the less light). These globes that i've found are 4200 k globes, which is a perfect white. Not yellow at all. These are very bright. When compared to plain old globes, the 55 watt seems to be twice as bright, and much nicer. the 100 watt is crazy bright, and i have not had any problems with heat. The BEST part is the price: The 55 watt H1 is only $35! 100 watt H1 is $45. The brand is a generic brand, but for that price, you can't go wrong. I've been using them for about 5 months, and they're still going bright and white. For the price of PIAA(which is not as bright), you can buy 4 sets of the 55w or 3 of the 100. PM me if interested. This price is available for sydney people who are close by for pic up. Or for interstate provided there are enough to make it worth postage. Or unless if you want to pay post. Note, supplier is doing these at near cost price.

I have just done the dual headlight mod, and in my opinion, it is one of the best value mods that can and should be done to our cars. For those of you who don't know about it, normally when you switch to high beam, low beam is swtched off. Therefore the light up close is not so bright. The mod keeps both HB and LB on when you switch on HB making it much brighter. I have compiled a list of the cost for those of you who want to do it: 5m cable 15 fuses 1.5 2 fuse holder 3 2 relays 14 female blade crimps 3 blade plastic covers 5 lugs 5 inline cable joiners 5 cable ties 2 lug crimper tool 13 electrical tape 2 68.50 I found it quite tricky to contemplate how to wire it together. Since this site has been so helpful, I'm willing to help out fellow Skyliners. If anyone is in sydney, I can do this mod for you if you bring your car to me. Hehehehe, i've got too much time atm (not working or going to uni). Just $75. The extra $5 just covers my cost to go buy parts. PM Me.

fellars, why are you doing these slow arse dls? MANWHOR3 posted it up on his site a while ago, i was getting 500 k a sec.

viscount - i know stuff like that pisses you off especially when your car is new. At least that your wheels are just the stockers.HAppened to me with my avs rims. ****ing pissed me off. I got so pissed off that i drove back in there with my falcon, and guess what? it was not possible to drive out without scraping the kerb. I guess unless if you have a mini or something, everyone scrapes it.**** those carpark designers But sierously dude, i've tried to keep my car in immac condition, but i know that it just cannot and will not happen. ****ing dickheads with shopping trolleys, jealous people with keys etc... Good to know about the speed cameras though, i've always wondered what happens if someone drives past me fast in the other lane.

wrong section

hahaha, it's funny how some people fully knock the look of the 350z. The 350z looks like a real sports car. Nice interior, aggressive exterior, 2 door 2 seater. Skylines are a piece of shit. Just a plain looking car that looks like a sedan. It's just a sedan with a better motor in it. Even the new maxima looks more sporty than a skyline. The maxima looks much closer to the 350z. So many people think, oh, skylines are the king. They drive alright, but not the best either. Anyone ever driven a 350z in stock form? let alone with new susp setup? it'd kill a skyline anyday in the bendies. And need i remind you, that it is also capable of putting out more power too with the extra 1L displacement. All in all, it's a better car. Much more modern, looks modern, drives modern. I hear you say, oh but the gtr is all wheel drive? so what? that's only useful for drags, because most drivers would and couldn't ever push it to the stage that it needs awd on cornering. Remember the Mc Claren Road car was made in rwd.