MANWHORE

alright, from the looks of your car, it is a sII gtst. I also own one of these, and i'll tell you that you cannot install mesh due to that gay plastic behind the front bar. That needs to come off to install an fmic anyway. What you do, is you use a jigsaw and cut it off. Then sand it back. It has been covered how to take hte front bar off. Do something difficult. It's called search. Also, if you're gonna saw it, why put mesh and be a rice boy? put an fmic!

ok, sorry if i was confusing. What i'm saying, is that those batteries that are called maintenance free are not actually sealed even though they claim they are. I said, pull off the plastic lid, and you'll see caps. Gas is still released from a maintenance free batt. This builds up in your boot + spark = aftermarket boot retrimming in charcoal & a nice alteration in boot shape (boom). Adv of dry cell - no explosions, no spilt acid all over boot, no rust due to spilt acid, lots of power for the size. dis - slightly heavier

that's incorrect You arae allowed to have dry cell. In regards to batteries being sealed, that's also incorrect. These so called "sealed maintenance free batteries" are not sealed. They have a plastic lid. That can just be pulled straight off, and you will see caps underneath it. Hell, they're supposed to be maintenance free, but i just topped up the one in my other car the other day. It's not just mine, i popped down to autobarn and had a look too. Anyone with a sealed maintenance free batt - i'd be seriously worried, because i have experienced the explosion before. Let me put it this way. It reshaped my boot! Don't buy these dodgy sealed maintenance free batts. Go for a proper dry cell. Like an oddysey, or wrxhoon's batt.

i believe that accident repairs can be alright depending on how bad the acco was. When you say it was rooted, how bad is it? whole front end could mean whole engine crushed and the whole front ****ed all up to the front of the cabin. lol you have to be more specific.

i only ever see thes lip light come on, the a-lsd light never does. So when it says slip, does that mean the diff is locked?furthermore, does the fluid ever hace to be changed? is it that bottle in the right hand side of the boot? what is that fluiid btw, i've had mixed responses, some reckon it's hicas.

paul, i'm really sorry about the way that i wrote the post above. I've changed it now. It's just that in the past i've been given bad advice which has cost me lots of money to fix. Sorry.

if it's raining and i give it a little too much gas, the wheels will spin. The slip light comes on when this happens. So does this mean that the a-lsd is letting the diff slip? so slip is a function of that diff? not traction control is it? I thought it was like the traction controls that limit the torque to prevent wheel spin

Here is advice for you. Any batt that you can slide under the strut brace will be very small, and in my opinion, no good. Removing the strutbrace is a 3 minute job, and does not change the adjustment of the brace. Look on both sides and you should see a single large bolt. Just undo one side, and the brace should swing down. Pop your new bat in. Screw it back iun. Will not wreck alignment. Make sure you do the brace back up tiught.

check the group buys section. That's still a bit exxy though. I've seen a two light hid kit for $400 so to convert all 4 would be $800. Pretty reasonable i'd say.

hmmm...never checked for a wire running to the diff. But i do have a seperate a-lsd unit in the batt compartment that other gts-ts don't have.

btw, these are exactly the same as on the gtr, so can someone with a gtr please shed some light?

I dunno if i was lucky or unlucky, but i got a gtst wth the slip and a-lsd. Can I just confirm, that the a-lsd is the same diff as the gtr? what is it exactly? It definitely does not feel like a mechanical diff because it doesn't lock like crazy. Furthermore, i thought that slip was traction control. What is it meant to do? Because i can still do a burnout. The light comes on, but nothing changes. I have changed my suspensions. Is it meant to have anything to do with that? I know for a fact that on the soarers, traction control has a wire running into the susp tower.

i'd like to see a pod filter that gives you a 17.9 kw gain! i'll buy one straight away. Firstly, they won't make a 15% improvement in airflow and secondly, a 15% improvement does not mean 15% of the power output of the engine.

I have a set of 4 Hercules G3000V 225/50R16 for sale. They are brand new and NEVER been rolled used. Still have stickers. The tyres are very grippy. Check the following site and look at the tread pattern: http://www.herculestire.com/hercules/her_g3000v.htm Were purchased for $220 each. Like i said, they are brand spanking new. Willing to let them go for $180 each ono.

I used to have this problem when i first got my car. It is a combination of a few factors. Firsty, when most cars come from japan, the battery dies, because it is not used for months. The chirp and weak start is the battery. Get a booster pack and connect it up, and you'll notice the difference a stronger battery will make. No more chirp, and should start quicker. Secondly, the low idle. For me, it was my car not adjusted properly to our shit aussie fuel. I ran a few tanks of our shit 98 octane fuel, then reset ecu. Problem went away. Rough idle can also be caused by other factors such as broken afm, idle may also be set too low.

I'm trying to fit a kill switch for my car. Who knows where i can access the crank angle sensor from? I've been told that it can be accessed from the ecu loom, but i need to know the exact wire. I forgot to say my car is an r33 sII.

Hi all i've removed the one screw from behind the ash tray and pulled the plastic gear surround off. I was wondering how do i remove the cigarette lighter from that plastic? I've tried to undo little clips on the side, but they appear to be glued on

nice answer lwells. That's very true. A skyline isn't really good value nowadays anyway. Compliance prices have risen heaps. Compliance costed me 2000 for my first r33. Unfortunately, that one was written off. I used got one in.Compliance costed me 5000. 20 odd thousand for a 7 yr old car? not that good value. Skylines aren't cheap when new. Much better stuff available in aust for similar prices. A wrx would be cheaper, faster and 4wd compared to a gtst. take the r32 gtr as an example. Sold in aust for $110 000. I'd take a porsche boxster instead anyday. At the end of the day, a skyline still looks like a fairly ordinary 2 door sedan. I'd take a convertible porsche anyday. The boxster has a better resale value, drives better.

come on fellars. Someone must have it

ok, thanks guys for the response. I now have a rough idea of what it is. From what your responses, it seems that mild cases cannot be readily heard, and by the time you can hear it badly, it's too late. Damage is done.

Think about it this way. If anyone really wants your car, they'll tow it. But get a reality check. Your car is not a porsche, it's just a 20000 skyline. Most likely, they wouldn't bother with a towtruck. I do a fair bit of work installing alarms, and i'll tell you that no matter how you install the alarm, it's still fairly easy to remove the alarm. Think about it this way, how do you install it? you cut wires, and join in the alarm. What will stop someone from removing the alarm unit, and rejoining the original wires (join wires of the same colour) ? Shouldn't take long at all. 4-5 hours to install a good alarm, 10 minutes to "uninstall" it. Alarms are more of a deterent for kids, or inexperienced people who think "oh, i'll just break into that and hotwire it and get a skyline!"

I am looking for someone who has the mapping software. Anyone who has it please pm me.

keep in mind that those r33s for 15 g would be absolutely shithouse. For 15g, you'll probably get a 93 r33. but then again, the r32s are starting to get a bit old too. How about a late model 200sx or a 180? I mean, jeez, an 11 yr old r33 that has been thrashed for most of its life? The r32 would be worse.

There is no reason why an r32 gtr would be in a different category as an r33gtst. They are both roughly worth the same amount of money. I have no problems using my car as a daily driver, apart from the clutch and lightened flywheel. That makes it a real bitch of a car to drive. I try to do the same as ecenshu - that is, let it roll, and don't move up everytime there is an extra cm in front. Having a daily driver ends up costing you a lot more. I can tell you this because i used to have one. Ditched it now. Think about it, rego and 3rd party. Rego will be aorund 500 and 3rd party will be around 300 depending on what car it is. That's 800. Just spend that little bit extra on your skyline. At the end of the day, a skyline is just another car. What's the point of having a car that you cannot use for fear of vandalism etc? Just buy it and leave it in the garage?

2GU UP 2 No problems scraping even at 65 mm? That's really strange. Because I have an r33 with the AERO STYLE CHIN SPOILER from UAS. I have coilovers, and even when i set them at stock height, it scrapes to the shithouse. I guess it is a bit different to your car though. The lip sticks out a fair bit. That must be the diff. Because on r32s, the front bar sticks in a lot.