MANWHORE

I've pmed kezza before, no reply. Tried calling his mobile, but it seems disconnected. He has been active on the site though, just not responding. He's been active july this year. Shoot him a pm for us mate, just in case if mine didn't go through. He's still got my bezel and dial.

t3/t4 turbos are not a bad thing. Just like rb25 highflow turbos, if you get a good one if you get a good one, they're awesome. If you get a shit one, they're shit. Send GT-Shortie a pm about the r3/t4 turbos. He had one on his car until he had a stronger motor built - wanted more power etc. His t3/t4 is for sale. Had better response than the rb25 highflow and made great power. It's in almost brand new condition too. Edit: Forgot to mention, if you get a good one (like his), it is striaght bolt on - comes with evertyhing you need.

That is the insulator over the wire. If the wire isn't snapped, it should still work.

From my experience, using the stock r33 actuator alone, even with mods, the boost was around 6 psi. With the solenoid, it went up to around 8.5/9. It is straight swap and a great way to make the car a bit safer while he's learning. It won't make it too slow either if that makes sense. It'll still be faster than most things out there.

Oil drain pipe on the turbo has a gasket with no gasket goo. It is an oil resistant paper. You can either make your own or buy one from nissan for a couple bucks (no point making your own). Throttle bodies - different manufacturers recommend different products. My ford uses gasket goo (loctite black max). I used thickish gasket paper instead - worked the treat and much neater. Cam covers - nissan gasket. No gasket goo required. Gasket goo is required on the bottom of the half moons.

Its amazing that they managed to machine an anti reversion groove into the already significiantly machined housing. Where the groove is, there is almost no meat left. On my slide turbo, you can squeeze the snout on the comp housing and it moves.

Just like how you contact any other business. Use google and type in GCG or look up the phone book.

Dale, my thoughts exactly. My initial thought was to replace the rb25 exhaust housinng with a vg/gtt housing. This is not an expensive thing to 'try' at all, since most engineering places/machine shops/turbo places with a lathe can machine the snout to whatever spec you want. That is in comparison to the price that gcg charge to repair/renew highflow turbos. This should shift the power/airflow up a few hundred rpm (the op6 housing is significantly larger - 0.8ar as opposed to 0.6). The engine should be able to ingest the air at that rpm. It's not really a waste even if it still surges, because it gives you the ability to make more power. I believe that if a turbo is to be upgraded, it shoudl be a worthwhile one

I've found that in the past, gcg haven't been very helpful in regards to discussing turbo tech. It may be that they are being protective of the wheels that they use etc. Really knowledgeable bloke to speak to on here would be Dale FZ1. He knows his turbos.

In terms of fuel spray pattern, the rotory injectors essentially just squirt the fuel in a line. Speak to red drifter after tuning issues associated with running 13b injectors. There was a thread a while back about modifying the tip of the stock injectors - removing the tip (forgot the technical term - too tired). It will give you a similar outcome, without the troubles of chopping and changing plugs etc

Just in case if you need help getting off the exhaust housing, here's some info on that: http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.p...p;topic=13035.0 I'm hoping that being a highflow, it won't have had TOO much use, so hopefully it shouldn't have rusted on too badly.

oops, I probably shoudl have used the word 'should' instead of 'would'

Ah ok, makes sense now. Well, I can tell for sure that the rb20 comp housing is smaller. It is smaller inside too - evident by the fact that people need to get an rb25 elbow. In regards to the rb25/20 exhaust housing, the housing is supposedly larger. I didn't measure the 20 housing when I had one, but my friend did, and he said it is larger. It could be an internal area difference (e.g. like inside the rb20 comp housing - smaller than the 25 comp housing). They might appear to be similar outside, but inside it might be different. There definitely would be a difference, otherwise nissan wouldn't have used a different number housing

Bit confused here matey So is this 04u one the one on your car? or have you sourced another GCG highflow? If the one on your car has the 04u housing, that could explain the compressor surge issue - too small exhaust housing. Its hard to tell from the pictures, but does that turbo you posted pics of have a leaking oil seal?

what does it say on the comp housing?

I've done it. What happens is normally the r33 actuator is 4.5-6 psi without the bleed solenoid. with the solenoid, it goes 7-9 psi (after 4500 rpm). The reason why I gave a range is because mods affect the boost. I've found the r32 actuator to be around 9-11psi without bleed solenoid with the solenoid, it is around 12-12.5 psi (after 4500 rpm)

This has to be the nicest r34 gauge install I've ever seen. I love the work. Personally, the install price is a fair bit of money to spend (not everyone would spend that much), but they did the job well, so no complaints there.

If you have mufflers, remove both mufflers. If you hvae them replaced with straight pipe, it should be louder and sound meaner. Cat - same deal Bigger dump/front pipe makes a bit of difference but nothing like changing mufflers. Bigger turbo makes a huge difference to the exhaust note and volume. - after all, this is essentially the only difference between what you used to have and what you have now - think of it as a big butt plug in the exhaust (literally)

Skybarge, I agrew itht he removal of the parts you said, but I found almost all of your figures to be extremely inflated e.g. seats are around 20 kg each including rails. The seats you'd replace them with weigh more than 7kg with heavy steel rails hicas is no where near 25-30 kg including line removal etc - 20 at max bonnet weighs nowhere near 30 kg. I don't have the figure on the top of my head, but its around 20 sound deadening is not 50kg etc etc Good guide there, but a little optimistic

I'm not sure where the head office is, but I know there is an office between St Ives/Terrey Hills in the industrial area near Bunnings. I doubt anything it dislodges will affect the new hoses. With the old hoses, for lack of a better word, they just become crap. Crap stuck on them, brittle rubber etc. New hoses are nice and luscious. I put new hoses onto my daily driver wagon and ran a flush about a year ago. The mechanics who had worked on it previously had neglected it (as usual - charge you for stuff and not do it). Came up mint and is still clean (radiator and old hoses had this thick white crap and the water was brown). Now, the radiator is still spotless and the coolant is still green. For the price, you can't go wrong (the old ones would probably eventually split anyways). Hoses for main stream cars are only like $20 each or something.

Hey Ben Prevention is always better than cure. I always change the coolant frequently so that the rust inhibitors prevent this from happening in the first place. Then they wont' have corrosion and there is no need to flush it (e.g. my car). Of course, this doesn't help you in any way. I have used radiator flushes in the past on many cars with great success. I stick by the nulon brand. I have personally played golf with the owner of Nulon. They have used their engine additive product, dumped it, and driven interstate with no oil in the sump at all. I trust their products. When I have used the nulon radiator in the flush, it does remove a lot of the rust and scale. When you dump the water out, it is quite dirty. My advice for you would be (if you are going to use it), to use it for the recommended time. I believe that the products are acid based, so using them for too long might eat lead solder joints etc. PS: in response to the brown water keep coming out. I've found that after running the flush, the system is then clean. I use coolant with good rust inhibitors and it stays clean

Well matey, the reason why I said check it is because the o2 sensor is by far not the only thing that contributes to fuel economy. I'll list a few things... temperature sensor dirty injectors blocked fuel pressure regulator blocked fuel filter dirty air filter wrong oil tyre pressure If you were to change everything, you'd end up buying a new car What I did, is bought one of those diagnostic screens for $200. Pplug it into the consult port and see every sensor, see every fault code. While it didn't help my car (nothing wrong with it), I have diagnosed many problems for friends. While I didn't charge them anything, it was very rewarding and I know it was money well spent.

Far out, what is going on is this thread!!! Xenon = the gas used in HID Bulbs. People use the terms interchangeably. Yes, technically, they are HID lamps. Yes, technically, they are also xenon lamps (just like halogen lamps are called halogen lamps). HID/xenon bulbs produce light because of an arc that runs inside not a filament. There was a mention above about xenon being bulb only. I believe you are referring to the addition of a small percentage of xenon gas into the atmosphere of a stadnard halogen filament bulb. This allows the filament to burn hotter and more efficient, therefore producing more light. They are not lieing when they advertise that the halogen bulb contains Xenon gas. However, these bulbs are not discharge bulbs that operate using an arc, they have a filament.

Test your sensor first. Don't just go off and spend money if it's working. It could be something else

I said that above in my first reply. I always do that even if the power is where I expect it to be. Every exhaust IS a restriction. What matters is whether it is a restriction at that power level. e.g. your quite 3" exhaust shoudl flow more than the standard exhaust. At standard pwoer levels, it is most likely that it won't pose much restriction at all. But then, at 200 rwkw, 250 rwkw, or 300 rwkw, the restriction will become evident That's why I always take it off and do a back to back run just to see how much restriction there is.