MANWHORE

can i ask what year is it? then i'll be able to give you a rough idea, because i work with skylines regularly

it all depends on offset. You have to find a balance between scraping the brake caliper and the guard. Get one that fits properly, and 265 should fit easily. Like i said, i've got 10 " wheels. If i was not using stretched rubber, who knows what the recommended rubber is, 285? easily fits

i've heard people saying that they ping if the timing is set too advanced, or if they are running a to small a spark gap. I have also heard that it melts the pistons and/or the rings? is that correct? how do i know if it's pinging or detonating?

wreckedhead, those 20" wheels are pretty much rice wheels since they have 235 rubber. They are more show than go. I'd say stick with your old rims, or go the 19s. If you wanna go 20, get something decent. I'd say with at least 255 or 265 rubber. Also, keep in mind that you get what you pay for. 20s for cheap? must be poor quality and really heavy. Something typical of tempetyres wheels, cheap and nasty.

wreckedhead, those 20" wheels are pretty much rice wheels since they have 235 rubber. They are more show than go. I'd say stick with your old rims, or go the 19s. If you wanna go 20, get something decent. I'd say with at least 255 or 265 rubber. Also, keep in mind that you get what you pay for. 20s for cheap? must be poor quality and really heavy. Something typical of tempetyres wheels, cheap and nasty.

i've got 17x10 inch rims at the back and they definitely fit. 17 x 9 inch at the front, also fit no probs. The rear just misses the caliper and also misses the guards. My guards have not been rolled. As said above, 2xx is the tyre width, not the wheel width. I am currently running stretched 255 rubber at the back. Nice and firm tyre wall

mate, i've been through the process as well. hehehe, after that, all my friends swore to stay away from importing themselves. i hope it's not a 15 yr car? if you're not lucky, you could have lotsa problems

simple. It's not worth 3000. and those people who are selling plates for 10000, well, think about it. It's still for sale. They just have the plates, and hope that some rich idiot will buy it. bet they've been on sale for years.

absolute rubbish about it reducing your resale value. I have noticed those gts 25t stickers on most skylines have faded and become weathered, and as far as i'm concerned, they look very ugly when they are cracking. I peeled mine off. It did leave a residual mark, but that's better than having the sticker there. Just whack a small nismo sticker in it's place.

what is the heat rating of a spark plug? I pulled my cover plugs out, haven't been changed for 20000 ks. They are all dirty and gapped at 1.4 mm. I was thinking about just buying some new ngk plugs. How do i decide which heat rating to get, and what would be the difference between a 1.1m and a 0.8 m gap? stock boost, just zorst and airfilter

ok, i've got advice for all of you. I work in a workshop, and this is the one post to answer them all. As i have been through a lot of this before, i can tell you the dos and don'ts. Do not get cheap jacks. I started off with a jack from supercheap rated at 1850 kg. That was the 3rd smallest one (smallest was 1400kg). Everyone would think to themselves, oh yeah, i'm only lifting up half the car, the whole car only weighs 1400 kg. Wrong, those jacks are very flimsy and don't lift the car very high. When using it, i had a very bad feeling, as if the jack was going to break any moment. I continued, and when i reached the max height, it was not even high enough to put stands under. That jack was $85 Bargain buy. At supercheap atm, you can get a 2500kg jack for $150, absolute bargain. I work in a workshop and use so called high quality jacks, and i trust the one from supercheap. I have had many scraping problems with the front bar, so i've put my coilovers to stock height, and i find that i still cannot get any trolley jack under to the crossmember, even a slim one from work. Even when lowered, I was able to get the jack under the car by driving onto one 2x4. EASY. This jack is the same size and high quality build as those monster jacks. JACKING I've been reading the posts by you guys, and i've noticed that a lot of you seem to have confused the chassis rails with the sills. All this talk about ruining the structural integrity of your car. Sorry, but wrong. The sills, are the desinated jacking spot. That little metal flap on the sill that gets bent does not help structural integrity. Feel it, it's so flimsy. That gets bent, but the sill does not. The chassis rail is further in, and it does get bent, and i would not advice you to jack from there. The sills are the designated jacking position for the car, and can easily handle being jacked, as they do not get bent by a standard jack. It's just that little metal flap, which does nothing anyways. The recommended jacking position for a trolley jack is the rear diff, and the front cross member. However, as the sills can handle it, and are easier to reach, i find them quite fine. I've probably jacked it 100 times, and it has not bent, just that little flap. Hope this has helped you guys to close this thread for good.

18? doubt it, i'll give 16.5

i am offering $15000 as a serious offer. Seen many similar cars like that from japan landed for around that.

lol, 8000 for an 89 civic? suggestion, lower price. 89 r32s can be cheaper than that, with less milage. Will offer $2000 serious offer.

the car is alright, but too expensive, that's why people don't want it. 23000 for an r32? don't think so, above is being sold a 97 r33. Suggestion, lower price. Offering 12000 as a serious offer.

This is another manifestation of analness and stupid arguments with no evidence to back it up. Those of you who say you are wrekcing the structural integrity of the car - do you actually know what the sills do? the little thin metal flap will just get flattened onto the sill. The sill itself does not actually get damaged, just the little metal flap gets bent. Have you actually felt it? it is so thing and weak and it does almost nothing. I'm not saying jack up by the chassis rail, because that does get bent, and that is important. If the fatory jacking point it the sill, then it can take it. Does the standard jack bend the sill? NO! therefore by jacking it by the sill, the only thing you bend is that stupid flap that does nothing. Besides, like i said, a lot of car garages hoist the car by the sill, and that flap does get flattened. Skylines are not special in this sense. All cars have that little metal flap and it gets bent. If you went up to your parents and told them about that on their car would they care? NO

when i was dlding off manwhore i was getting around 600 kb/sec I dunno why other people keep hosting files temporarily. Just put it on a website like what manwhore did. Then you can dl it really fast

How can anyone possibly call themself the burnout champ or burnout king? Furthermore, how is a burnout comp judged? i'd say that most people would be able to do a massive burnout and smoke their tyres down to the radial.

ok, that gtr.org.uk site is and has been ****ed for ages. Don't bother trying. Manwhore is a champo. He gave me a copy of both manuals. It's also posted up on the internet on his site as well. Forget using bit torrent and all that. Manwhore i read your thread about the SYB (Start ya bastard). Any news?

rev head, you have taken what i said to the extreme. I'm not saying go off and flog it straight away when it's cold. I'm just saying that you should just drive it normal without being all anal about taking it ultra easy in the beginning. Let me give you an example. Driving it around the block a few times taking it ultra easy. Worrying about going 100 ks/hr after they said that it takes 5 minutes to get there. Thinking about going a longer route. The difference between driving it normal (say as your parents would) and being ultra anal is minimal.

if you pop into your local servo, some of the hoists lift the car by the sills. That thin rail on the sill will get bent, but who cares though? the same thing happens on any car. Do people look under your car? seriously fellars.

Come on fellars, as much as we like to think that a skyline is a super performance machine, at the end of the day, it is a car. In japan, they are our version of commondore. Well, not really, but almost. All this talk about warm idling and taking it easy. Just drive it. I let my car idle for about a minute. That is start up the car, put my stuff in the car, sit down, and go. Who in their right mind would even think about going a different path just to warm up their car? As a turbo car, it is important to let the oil circulate for a sec to lub the turbo. Then, just go. After the turb is lubed, it is the same as a normal car. Do you see commodore drivers warming up, or circling the block at 40 km/hr to warm it up, or driving on the freeway at 80? All this analness that you guys are doing will make minimal difference in the end. Might last a few more ks. If you think about it, most likely you may not even have the car in a few years time. Most commondores and other cars last 10-15 years and around 200 000ks. Isn't this enough? in 15 years time r33s will be an absolute shitbox. Would you even wanna be driving it around anymore?

so what do i have to do? just come along? or do i have to put my name down first? also, how much does it cost?

I've just moved to sydney and i'm interested in getting into the drags here. I don't know much about it yet, but from what i've read in this forumn, WSID is the place. I believe the street meets are on wednesday? i'd like to come down and watch you guys doing runs, and come meet you guys. Then i'll come down for a run later. My car's still on stock turbs and IC, but it's still fun anyways. what time do i get down there to spectate?

Shouldn't make any difference in terms of safety. But the 16s have a bigger tyre wall, and will help your car to squat better than 17s. Remember to let your tyres down a bit to increase the size of the contact patch. Will require a bitta trial and error. Some say 20 psi is the best, but it really depends on your tyres. let it down to 25 psi. Then do a run, and keep letting it down by 2 psi and see the difference in grip.