MANWHORE

Wogs is spot on the money regarding the standard ecu. I too have found similar during my ecu adventures.

it's an auto and it's not really losing oil to the extent that loses a lot of oil. It might just need topping up 50 ml every few months. So that means that if I ever end up doing the rear main, it's either: 1. the leak gets worse such that refilling is required more often. 2. I can't help myself but to fiddle with it

Hi sid I'll try and answer all of your questions. I'm located in st ives The ecus are from japanese tuning companies (but works with 98 octane petrol fine) of course you're able to test it first. I would prefer that you did - that way, we're all happy. I'm not here to sell stuff that isn't suited to people's car. It most definitely is suited to the stock, fmic or 34 sidemount. Refer to my post above. Once you increase airflow to a certain level, car will go rich and retard. the map on my ecu doesn't do this. Even with the stock sidemount, it'll make more power, torque etc, because it has more timing everywhere dyno graph is useless, because power is dependant on mods. I don't believe in dynos. I don't care about power figures. I much rather road testing with a wideband o2 sensor. Knock can be monitored by monitoring knock sensor voltage on a laptop sII manual - haven't tested it on an sII manual. Worked perfectly on an sI manual. You're most welcome to test it on a dyno. The ecu has a chip socket in it now, so if a tuner knows how to remap it again, sure, he can burn a chip and put it in. You sure can - unplug it and plug the other one back in

1 ecu has been sold to 'security'. Thanks matey. I've sent you a pm. The other ecu is still avaialble. better be quick guys.

Guys, just to remind you, this includes the ecu itself. After you install it, you can probably go off and sell your standard ecu for 100-150

too late. I sent him a pm this morning. It's mine

Pick up is most definitely possible. In fact, I would prefer pickup, so that I can make sure that you're 100% happy. I tested the ecus on a sI and they worked very well. Do you have a sI or 2?

of course you do.... in Australia. Enforceability of foreign contracts is another matter (unfortunately)

Rule 1: Never work on your own car yourself if it is your only car (i.e. if you can't borrow mum/dad's car etc). It is simply impossible. I take this to the next step, and I have a daily driver. Whenever I do anything on the car, I usually need something as the thing progresses. Cars are my most favourite thing in the whole world, so I practically have half a workshop worth of parts, but it's still not enough. e.g. I might need a washer or a clamp, or a belt, or hose or something. In light of this, I find that most of the time wiht the skylines (for other cars, it depends on where the fuel filter is located too), the hose is normally hardened onto the fuel filter. You can probably muck around and use a screwdriver to get it off, but it's still no good - the hose is perished. Doing so will probably spill blood. I normally just slit it, save the hassle. New bit of fuel line might cost you $5-10. Then you know for next time, it'll be easy too.

I think a lot of places think $$$ when they hear the word clutch, turbo or engine. 240 including oil, bearings and labour is fairer for a clutch I suppose. Some of the prices I hear are fairly up there.

Seriously, if you use some cheap piece of shit, it'll rust out the whole place, have acid spray everywhere, and make the car look and be a piece of crap. I've seen other cars where they had skimped on the battery - plain ugly. The group buy section has sealed batteries for 140. I bought one 2 years ago, and its still going strong.

PM Sent turbs

Yes, you guys heard correctly. I know that everyone says r33 ecus are impossible to remap, but I have two of them right here. I have for sale 2 remapped r33 ecus. As i'm sure you're all aware, when you up the boost on the stock ecu, timing is retarded severly, and the mixtures go really rich. Both of the remapped ecus eliminate rich and retard. Ignition timing is advanced quite significantly throughout the rev range too, so they should make more power, more torque, be more responsive and have faster turbo spool. I bought both of these ecus off the forums here, but I have had a change of plan for my car. They are both from famous japanese tuning companies. The ecus suit r33 rb25, with stock afm and stock injectors. Works to optimise the stock turbo, or aftermarket turbo (up to the power level that the stock injectors and afm support). Runs perfectly on 98 octane petrol (yes, they have been tested with a wideband air fuel ratio meter). Price: 500 each TO YOUR DOOR via express post . Contact: PM or call me on 0403 211 482 (Chris) Edit: forgot to say, speed limiter has also been removed (of course )

Whoa, 80 is heaps of money for oil. My daily driver is jealous. He only gets 2nd hand oil from my skyline

Thanks for that awesome detailed response Phil. She's an old girl - my daily driver wagon. It's a 91 model, so it's now 16 years old. Pretty much every seal is leaking. Cam covers were leaking quite significantly. I changed them, so there's no longer oil coming from the top of the engine. I cleaned off all the old oil, but now there's oil all over the sump, but nothing above it, so it appears that it's coming from the sump. I'm sure that the rear main is leaking too, because there's oil coming from out the back, but pulling the box out is probably a big job.

If you really need it tonight, check out sk's thread in the volvo section. I beleive he had the correct diagrams for plumbing, as well as the ecu pinouts etc

it sure is. have fun. They're a great unit. It'll give you the best possible boost build as wella s the best boost control compared to any other ebc. the other ones bleed, but this one blocks, so it's good shit

I got the paper copy. It's pretty simple man. Basically, you just follow the injector duty cycle, and set your boost solenoid duty cycle to an amount that gets your boost. you also can set up the rate and which it builds. e.g. you have a curve starting from full open to your level. You can have it over many load points, whcih will make the boost build slower, or have it steeper etc.

well, your car has a front pipe standard, so I don't see how it's bad?

The hks actuator is adjustible. As low or as high as you like Slide - forum sponsor sells em for $189

Hmmm, may not be the case with your gcg then. Some of them have, like there have been threads. See how you go with the bleeder, like I said before I have a new hks actuator that i'm not using

Make a reasonable offer and theyr'e yours

45L = 300ks

Thanks so much for your help guys. Will give it a go maybe this weekend and i'll let you all know how it goes. Yeah, I'm a perfectionist, so i'd want to be 110% sure it's perfect (not to mention i'd hate to have to take it off and scrape all of the gasket off again) On my subaru, the sump is fairly accessible. There are no swaybars and everything in the way, so i'll just take the sump off, clean it up well etc. Much easier.

Nah, i don't keep secrets (unless if the information is not mine and they won't let me say it). I get plenty of info from here, so I like to give it back. It really depends on the turbo. From seeing all the threads that say 'my wastegate actuator flap is rattling' with both GCG, precision turbo and slide highflows, there's a reason. I didn't think that GCGs did this, but there have been a few threads even with gcg highflows. All three of these highflows run a shorter cartridge. Nytsky off these forums got a precisoin turbo highflow. They cut his actuator rod and welded it shorter. Slide bent my actuator rod shorter so that it fits snuggly Even on a stock turbo, rb20 actuators run 11psi. I was using one before the highflow. If you think about it, since the catridge is shorter, there's less preload on the spring. My rb25 actuator which is on my turbo now is running 11psi, because it's got extra preload on it now because the rod has been shortened (that kink in the rod has been made a bit bigger. It was bent perfectly though so it doesn't look any different to the stock one). If you're going to be running 14-16psi, how is the boost controller holding up? any drop off or spiking? what controller is it?