MANWHORE

The gtr pump noise is tough

My opinion is that the rt615 tyres are not shabby at all (especially how you only drive in the dry - they're not bad in the wet either) and their life is reasonable because it's not like a true R compound tyre.

Temp guage is not an accurate indicator of engine coolant temp. My experience has been that it tends to read 3 modes: So hot the engine is about to explode Normal temp Car is off - cold If your clutch fan is busted, it is a pretty urgent thing to repair. It WILL explode and most likely chop your bonnet, cam cover and radiator up if the bearing is gone. It's not if, it's a matter of when. I've actually seen a car when this has happened and it is not fun at all. the owner was heartbroken that something so cheap to fix could do so much damage - you can get one off a wrecked car for almost nothing

I like the way you think matey. I've done similar installs to what you've done. One trick that has saved my daily driver is the good old second crappy alarm. I installed my alarm properly in a hidden place. Then, grabbed a rubbish alarm off ebay for like $30. I then installed that second alarm in the really obvious way with splices at the key barrel, etc etc. I installed the siren for the good alarm inside the car, but all the way hidden e.g. I took my dash out and it is all the way up above the air con vents.

I couldn't agree more. People rave on about the importance of black wired alarms when I've seen installs where the installer has just spliced the alarm into the ignition loom right near the key barrel, spliced the door sensor down at the skyline kick panel and spliced the indicators at the back of the fuse box and shoved the alarm unit under the dash. The colour of wiring doesn't matter here, because the thief doesn't care about your alarm - in fact, it has now become easier to steal, because the thief has now exposed the wires on the ignition loom and they don't even have to be cut anymore. They can just slice off the electrical tape with a razor and use aligator clips.

Stock dump/front As to what size, the easiest way to tell would be to use a set of venier calipers and measure it.

A few years ago, Greddy was the only feasible aftermarket plenum option for the rb25. Then suddenly someone copied it and flogged them off cheap. I have no experience with this particular jjr product and as such I am not commenting on that product, but some people have noticed flow inconsistencies between the cylinders with the copies I referred to.

I don't like chopping and brazing the stock line, but some do it. Hell, some even just use an olive fitting screwed on. Some even more ghetto people just use a piece of rubber hose to join it. The way I like to do it is to take the stock line off, wraps around the back of the block, and have a braided line made up for the whole way. Behind the block on the stock line is a little rubber hose joiner - being 10+ years old, it is likely perished or about to leak. If you do it right now, it will save having to take the line out later.

Sounds about the same power as what I've achieved in the past with OP6 ceramic wheeled turbo. The weakest link in your chain is probably the turbo - I don't like running the stock turbos at that high psi - some people's have even let go at 10 psi. I suppose if it blows you can always just get it highflowed. Just be careful though, sometimes when they let go, it can cause damage.

The standard bumper hole on the r33s and r34s (not sure about the 32s) fit the number plate when you space it out by about 1/2 cm. To fit my plate cover, I modified the cover by using a bench angle grinder and grinding the black side edges about 1/2 cm narrower on each side. Looks like I bought it like that - and that is how I like it (Took about 1 hour of my time but imo, it was well worth it).

Come on kuma, have a heart mate!

This sounds very similar to the OP6 highflow setup I referred to above (power and response). The car honestly scared the bejezus out of me the first time I drove it after tuning. It was that responsive that it felt like a standard turbo. In the dry with 255 rear tyres, it was like going for a skid in the wet The car was tuned with a bit of toluene added so it made more power and torque than other cars running this turbo with standard 98 octane. E85 should be even better again.

The speed camera one is freaky. It happens to me all the time. Everytime, I get worried that I might have forgotten to check my speed before passing through.

Sounds very much like my 2 door r33. Tank is plastic. Opening to the tank is under the parcel shelf. The Cradle that everyone refers to is inside the tank, not attached to the tank lid. I had to reach inside the tank and pull it out. My tank was full of fuel, so I had to reach under the fuel to get it.

+ 1 on checking the cat.

Also, Worp3D, I would also add cams to the list + of course the usual things required to handle the power: clutch tyres suspension etc etc

280 rwkw is a tricky figure. Is there a reason why you have selected 280 rwkw as opposed to 250rwkw or 300 rwkw? The reason I ask is while it is definitely possible to make more than 250 rwkw on a stock motor (I've done it as have numerous other forum members), I would not want to do it for an extended period of time on a stock motor for reliability purposes. 280rwkw is tricky because it is more than I'd be comfortable running on the stock motor and probably not quite enough to justify building a motor. E.g. if I was going to build a motor, I'd whack a slightly bigger turbo on and aim for 300+. If you tune the car to run on E85 (high octane), you should be able to get 280 rwkw using a highflow rb25 turbo with the larger OP6 rear housing from the VG30 turbo. A car that I helped build managed more than 280 rwkw with the highflow I mentioned using tolulene added to standard 98 BP ultimate. E85 should be able to produce even more power.

I would put my money that a Court would find against you if you attempted this and award costs to the other side.

We are not allowed to put negative comments about suppliers on SAU. This should be sufficient to allow you to make your decision.

Well said. I could not agree more! All of this talk about whether your mate should contribute to the repairs because he was illegally parked across your driveway is wrong. If you really want to be technical about it, ok, so he was illegally parked. So he could theoretically get a parking fine - what are they - $75-80 these days? You still owe him the full amount of the repairs. You hit a stationary car. We've all done stupid things in our life - cop it on the chin, move on and keep the friendship.

If you need an r34 (vg30/r34 is the same with the larger exhaust housing) turbo to highflow, I've got 2, look below.

My experience has been that special software like partion magic format drives in a special way that may or may not be readable by certain headunits. Afterall, correct me if I'm wrong (I can't remember the exact specifics of partition magic) but doens't it let you partition drives after you have already partitioned and installed windows etc - the headunit might not recognise this. Some headunits that I've installed didn't liek these specially partitioned drives. Try deleting all partitions on the drive with fdisk - comes with windows - use it via the command prompt. Then just format it standard using windows. Try that before you do the power, and if it still doens't work, then it might be the power.

I wouldn't personally consider moving to aftermarkets cams on a motor putting out 150kw.... You could probably pick up a cheap standard cam off the forums here from someone who has upgraded. It is a bit of a dilemna though, because paying a mechanic to install a standard cam might be a bit of a waste of money (I'm guessing that you won't be doing it yourself). I suppose the question is how far do you want to go - if you will eventually upgrade your turbo, might as well just do the cams first then?

I do feel for ya matey and I understand that you'd probably be feeling angry/upset and probably some combination inbetween. I definitely get what you are saying about cops being more strick with modified cars. I mean the cops are definitely about 10 times more strict with performance car owners and 'standard' cars will get away with doing a lot more. But you get what I was trying to say about trying to at least minimise the reasons they have to target you. There is a reasonable possibility that you wouldn't have been pulled over if you didn't have your fogs on. I'm sure you were being polite. i've been pulled over and defected for everything under the sun before while being probably more polite than i've ever been in my life. All you can do is try and minimise the number of reasons that a cop has to target you and you will be done a lot less and enjoy your car more. On the plus side, you weren't defected. I personally feel that it is worth owning a performance car for me. For me, I enjoy cars - I will probably keep driving a modified car - possibly the car I have now for a long long time. One of the best things i've done so far is gotten a daily driver. It's made me appreciate my car so much more - when I get into my car on the weekend, I feel like i'm driving a supercar. it's suprisingly not really any more expensive. What ever money rego and insurance costs, is most likely saved in less fuel consumption in the daily. Plus, it's just good driving that to work and to the shops knowing that I'm not going to get door dented by some granny or keyed, or broken into, or more importantly, defected if i'm in the city on a weekend night.

I have heard MANY MANY good things about State Roads. I've been suprised at the detail of things that they pick up. Sure they pick up obvious things like - the standard radio has been replaced with non standard, tyres are bald, wiper blades need replacing etc. BUT they pick up important things that you might miss yourself. e.g. on 2 occassions (out of about 20 inspections that i've seen) the State Roads Guy pointed out that the chassis rail had been restitched. Sure, in my opinion, it was more likely that the chassis rail was replaced because it had been busted or hit or crushed by a forklift in Japan. This is because upon passing this message onto the owners, the interior was removed and carpet lifted and inside the car was untouched. Their opinion was that there was the possibility that the car was a cut and shut - But it is still somethign that is nice to have pointed out BEFORE you buy the car, not after. Having said that, I've never actually bought a car in Australia (always imported my own). But I have seen many inspections of performance cars by State Roads (I've gone along to give opinions on the reports).