MANWHORE

Mike, I'll come around and watch I live in st ives, so it's not far

100 is fairly expensive. in my cars and my parents cars, I haven't really had any radiator blockage problems. I change the coolant regularly (2-3 years) with nulon extra long life (4 year coolant). No problems at all. When they use gasket goo like on the waterpump etc, if the mechanic is good/normal, he'll use just the right amount of goo. Afterall, they don't exactly want to go squirting the whole tube in because it does cost money

Hey guys I'm after a really cheap sub and amp. Checking out strathfield's prices now, I can get: Sub and box for $62. amp for $88 for a 4 channel with sub control. This adds up to $150. This is not for my skyline, it's for my daily driver (old bomb). I can hear that you're thinking that the quality may not be tops for 150, but i'll give you the low down. Atm, I'm still using factory speakers. I have a $120 boss audio headunit, so sound quality is probably not tops anyways. I just want to add some bass. So basically, if anyone's got some stuff lying around that they're not using that is either: 1. same sort of quality as the strathfield one, but because it's second hand, will be a lot cheaper; or 2. better quality than what is on offer, and since it's second hand, can do it for around that price Help a brother out Chris (From team I have no cash racing)- 0403 211 482

hahaa

I know what you're talking about. You should put that back on. It holds the exhaust so it doesn't wobble around, otherwise, it might rattle bolts loose, and cause stress to components etc. It'll probably be alright without one (my friend's 32 doesn't have one), but i'm a perfectionist and I like things perfect.

motul gear 300 gear oil added

hey birns, no worries haha, didn't see your post for ages. Uni exams grrr.... exams are over now though

nope

You have to torque the the exhaust manifold. Doing them too tight is what makes them snap. there is a torque setting. I'm not at home so I don't have my files with me, but lsat manifold, I remember I had figures to use

why on earth would you want a powerfc, when the stock ecu can be tuned to do exactly the same as what the power fc can and more e.g. retain things that the powerfc doens't have. A powerfc tune will cost you 5-600. A remap will cost whatever around there. why pay 1k for a pfc and then pay for a tune, when you can skip paying the 1k?

I've never used those ds2500 pads, but was thinking about giving them a go. They're certainly not so cheap to just pick up a few different brands at the local store to give them a test. Guys, while changing brake fluid may or may not improve pedal feel, the idea is to change is as preventitative maintenance. If you don't, the moisture will rust components. I try and do it every 12 months (i'd prefer 6, but i'm lazy). I buy 3 bottles of castrol ersponse super dot 4. Costs about $24. That's cheaper than an oil change. Takes about 1-2 hours.

r33 gtsts don't have a fork at the bottom. They hvae a balljoint/rubber bush/whatever you wish to call it.

Kez, I want my money back. Sent you a pm. Been busy with uni exams, so I haven't had time to contact you since, but pming you now.

I'll also put some input in here that I feel has been missed. Yes, suspension, swaybars, alignment parts, bushes, strut braces etc do affect handling. But, have a think about a few other things too. Tyres make an absolutely huge difference. You could have two identical cars (take a skyline as an example). On one, if you have just commuter shitty tyres, about 50% tread (so the rubber is most likely not soft and grippy anymore). This skyline will probably handle fairly ordinary. Because i'm used to grip, if I was to drive it, i'd say it would feel like crap. Then, if you take the other identical skyline, and whack on a set of brand new grippy street rubber (e.g. bridgestone s03 or falken st115/fk451) or a set of semis, and it would feel like a different car. Tyre pressures make a huge difference too. Too hard = bad handling. too soft = bad handling. uneven = bad handling. Keep in mind, that if you've got stock suspensions, not only are they stock, they are most likely worn. Whack a set of brand new stockies in there, and it'll feel like a different car. Most older 33s and especially 32s (the ones that haven't had bushes and suspensions replaced) have worn suspensions and bushes, ball joints etc. All you need is one worn ball joint, and the car will handle like a one eyed billygoat. Wheel alignment speaks for itself - huge impact. As the others have said, i'd say that handling in the bentley would have been fairly ordinary. It may have felt fast, but whether it actually was, may be another story. Also, the components there are new, so theyr'e not worn out, whereas the ones in your car probably are worn or near worn. spending money on handling can be really rewarding. It can totally change the way the car handles. My car handled fairly ok on stock suspensions. But I bought the car from someone I knew in japan, when it was only a few years old, so everythign was in top nic.

yeah, and when you open it, it'll smack you on the chin.

pete, GT shortie and I are ordering together (live near each other). money should be coming within the next few days

My mechanic friend advised me when I needed some for my falcon to just get them from anywhere. They're all the same stuff pretty much. I bought some from repco/auto one. Still fine after 3+ years. Not expensive either, compared to nissan direct. there's not much to an o ring

sorry about the delay. Just finished exams today. Rb25 turbo comp housing is 45v, rb20 is 16v. Nah, they're different. It changes teh characteristics. If you're having surging issues, perhaps you need a bigger a/r exhaust housing like the nissan op6 housing. They're really rare though - my turbo is an op6 turbo.

hey joe, how did you know it was broken? haha, whenever I hear someone's thing is broken it makes me wanna check to make sure mine's not broken

I have never ever had this problem with an oil filter. I never destroy it by putting the sccrewdriver through it, because it just makes it hard to work with. I've had some mega tight ones. the best tool is your hands. What I do, is I clean the filter off really well with brake cleaner, so ti's not slippery. I then use one of those sticky matts - the ones from the supermarket that you use when a jar is hard to open for weak mums. I use two hands on the filter. Never fails.

PS: last guy that did my clutch charged me $140 including bearings. He had never done a skyline box before. Took his time, took a bit over an hour, but it was on a hoist.

dif, did it only take you 1 hour to do it on the ground really? I've got a clutch to go into mine, just building up the confidence to do it atm. I've got all the equipo, just need confidence. Hahaha, you know like when you start a job, and it's like hmmm, that's impossible. then you look at it, do a bit more, and next thing you know, it's done.

It won't seal. Your tank cap seals against the filler restrictor - correct? yes Therefore, the restrictor's cap opening is the same size as the original - yes. I know because I watched the pricks comply my car. They used this air tool that expands the opening. They use a little bit of that squishy metal stuff. the metal glue that you squish in your hand until it becomes warm, then it sticks.

yep, 33 turbo, straight fit. s15 turbo, not straight fit. Probably not much more power either.

Ok, compliance pisses me off. They stretch your fuel filler neck to fit that spastic brass thing in. This means that your petrol cap won't seal properly against the filler neck anymore without it. Downright pisses me off, because those stupid restrictors always come lose after time. If mine ever comes lose, i'm going to source a filler neck which hasn't been 'complianced' and replace it.