MANWHORE

Bass, silly question (not doubting you in anyway and still interested) is that $30 postage for each one from hong kong to us? or are they coming over in a batch and then $30 from your house to mine? I'm pretty tight on cash, and 30 from melbourne to sydney for 1kg seems a bit dear with normal aust post? No harm intended, just wondering

I'd love to do a carputer too for my daily driver. I dont' think that screen is touch screen - that's the main issue (correct me if i'm wrong). The liliput screens etc are touch screens.

I reckon on my car, it's the cold start/aac/aircon valve. I have never cleaned them, and i'm gonna give em a go in the holidays. I know you've done all those, but can't hurt to try doing the ones on my car. Strangely enough, mine hasn't been doing it either, and it's been crazily cold these past few weeks. so strange. I haven't changed anything.

Poncams and cam gears? he doesn't even have an a/m turbo, stock ecu. I reckon it'd probably go backwards in power. I'd personally spend the money on food, but that's what I like

25 turbo = 21 u

About 6 months ago, i got fairly interested in coating, and did a lot of research on it. What I found was that there are quantifiable gains, but it is quite expensive. Unless if you're chasing efficiency, spending money elsewhere seems to get much more noticeable gains. Another one of these examples is if you took your whole exhaust off, including the manifold. Got everything port matched, extrusion honed, die grinded all of the openings so that they matched etc, you'd notice power/response gains etc, but the expense outweighs the gain AT THAT POWER LEVEL. I found examples simialr to the one mentioned where they coated everything inside and outside the engine on race cars. Very very expensive, but they're chasing the last pooftenth of power.

what do you mean dildo gearknob? You mean like the nismo buttplug gearknob? or the gearstick extensions?

I can't beleive no one's said it yet, but from the top pic, theyr'e both rb20 turbos. nissan motor 16v. One of them may be the earlier bastardised vg30 with the nissan 16v comp cover, and non op6 rear housing. We'd need more pics of the back housing numbers, and the wheel up closer. edit: oops, you guys beat me to it. haha

I'd prefer no logos on mine - stealth look

bout 250 including bearings

Those crappy hid kits don't need any modding to fit. I wouldn't use em, but if you want to, it's up to you.

hulk, me too. I buy the genuine nissan one. everytime I hear the price, i'm like f**k. Makes me wonder whetehr it's any better. I buy the genuine oil fitler too. grrr, ryco fuel filters etc etc are so cheap.

Shelite is some real nasty shit. Had a nasty experience with shelite. I just don't get what makes that stuff so potent. I haven't researched the chemical structure etc, i'm not that desparate to know. haha. I mean sure, you can light petrol, kero etc on fire. They burn very easily, and they're dangerous. But shelite. Man. I had a friend try and start one of those wood barbies at the natio park using shelite. He thought it would be like petty. covered the wood in shelit, and lit it using a match. Man, wasn't pretty. So does shelite not leave residue? petrol must be ok, considering the car eats it normally. that's why I use it anyways.

dale fz1, you're the turbo guru. I'm just having exams atm, but i'd love to have a chat with you about some turbo tech after:) As the other guys have said above, yeah, there are definite benefits. What you'd more importantly do though, is change the rear wheel, which is your biggest limit. It's ceramic. So in essence, you'd change both i.e. highflow both

yeah, that plug is a real doozy. I was fixing another r33 once, and we checked the fuse, thought taht the contacts on the stalk might have been worn, but before we pulled the stalk out, I noticed taht the plugs werent' even on. the contacts were all corroded, so I cleaned it up wiht some emery paper, and plugged it back in

What I am about to say is what I do, up to you whether you agree or not. Colder deos not mean better. Colder means it's less likely to experience detonation, but going too cold has problems. On r33s, they use a 5 heat range plug. R34s may use a 6. Either 5 or 6 for a stockish car should not present any problems. I'm running a aftermarket turbo on my rb25, and making a fair bit of power. I'm still using 6. 7 heatrange fouls in my car driving on the street. 6 doesn't detonate. IMO, for my car, I would not use an 8. 7 possibly, if I was driving it hard every minute it's driven.

yeah, definitely monkey. that's spot on the money in regards to ecu, injectors, afm, cluch, tyres, suspensions etc to take advantage of the turbo. I think I might have been a bit unclear. what I was saying was, for someone with a working r34 turbo, it's not really worth the 'upgrade'. migth as well save up for the a/m turbo. but of course, they need the other parts, as you said above. but for someone with a busted turbo, they can either go cheap and get a 2nd hand one, where they might as well get a newer r33 one or r34 one (less ks). or, if they want more power, better to go a/m - refer to mods needed above

Getting it rebuilt and selling it? You said that you weren't thinking about making money off it, why else would you rebuild it to sell it? Like the other guys have said, there are a range of garrett turbos very similar to the 2530. Second hand ones can go for around 1k. If you rebuild it for yoursel fto use, then fine. But if you rebuild it, you might make a hundred or two, but all that effort just for a 1-2 hundred?

won't work. best way to check - run it on a consult diagnostic screen. best investment ever. if you don't wanna spend that much money, at least buy a consult cable.

if you could get em for an r33, i'd be in. yuuummm.. shiny plate

Oh yeah, also, black is good (don't need more cop attention). Try and get it as cheap as possible. please please please. cheaper = more money for other mods... yuuumm

Bass Junky, you're an absolute legend mate. Can I give you a hug? That afm to turbo pipe is the wonkiest piece of crap in the world. When I was doing my turbo install, a friend came over to cook me lunch and she goes what's that old thing - is that from your skyline? My wonky pipe doens't even fit as tightly as i'd like it to onto the turbo. silly wonky pipe

oh, also, for mounts, I lost the link, but I was reading this site where guys recommend filling the mount with this black silastic compound (works especially well with worn mounts). I think the compound was someothing like window sealant or something. really stiffens them up.

sid, the mounts look exactly like the stock ones. You wouldn't be able to tell the difference looking at what you've got on your car now (e.g. look at the mount under the gearbox). They just have a harder duro rubber in there. I think the issue with the engine damper for the r33, is the bracketing on both sides is no good. i've used engine dampers on sr20s, like the other guys say, they are noticeable. You feel more harshness etc. On the r33, wasn't noticeable. the problem is how the r33 has that flimsy bracket which mounts on the strut tower which looks like the harbour bridge. Also, like uras said, how it just mounts off the engine lifting bracket. If someone actually made a decent damper, it would work. In regards to the mounts, my car still has stock engine mounts. Even though they're a few years old, they're still OK compared to other cars out there. Drove another r33 with nismo mounts, and the difference was very noticeable. Harshness didn't really increase, but it really made a lot of difference to the gearstick wobble when you back the throttle and clutch in, the box move like crazy anymore.

hey ben, I get massive reversion on my car. After the 20th, if you like, we can try and see if we can reproduce it, then i suppose you could then say that it would be reversion. I've also got a gtr bov spare that's going into my car. I suppose after the 20th, suppose you could try wacking that onto your car to see if the bov is the issue. in addition, maybe blockign the bov off all together, just for testing, to see if it makes it worse. My car seems to have a small issue atm though. When I put the throttle down in neutral, then let go, my revs drop below normal idle. Only started happening around the time I put the pump in (which was 1 week after I put the turbo in). grrr, doing a few mods at once makes it hard to pinpoint issues.