MANWHORE

I don't think crave belittled you at all. You said the fluid was brown and sticky, he said it coolant isn't sticky. He answered your question.

Couldn't have said it better myself. Wasn't so simple for me

Also, for that line, you're not really 'hitting' hey. It's just touching. that one is insulated. Think about how much heat it gets when near the dump

awesome, let us knwo then. If not much coolant came out, then that means you MIGHT have air in the system. If it was me, i'd bleed it. Even after I drained the radiator, when I undid the bajo, about 4-4.5 L came out.

hey andi, can you tell me something. what rpm do you get 10 psi at if you start from stationary and launch it.

yeah, just cut them. Do you have a fuel problem atm? if not, then why bother changing?

I think it's safe to say that there's been enough arguing. Your tuner needs to tune it propelry, either that or your car's f**ked. either way is fine. I really don't understand where the issue is. Pinging, put more fuel, less timing. simple as that. who tuned it? have they tuned pfcs before?

I don't think it's really good if any line touches the dump/exhaust housing. Even the stock lines on my car, I made sure they weren't touching. They were in the beginning, but I massaged them out a bit. It's fairly easily possible to install the braided line without touching the housing/dump. Insulating is a possibility, but i find it easier to just get the right length, and position them well.

check something for me. It's brown is it? go and have a look at the coolant in your radiator and tell me what colour it is. Then get on the floor and have a look up into the dash where the heater core is and where it would leak from. see anything leaking? lastly, are you using the plastic guard liners? water can come in if it's quite wet outside without those Worst practical joke ever - I knew this drunk guy that thought it would be funny if he pissed in someone's car. I tell you, no one was laughing at all. that guy was dead big time. Do you have friends like that?

In regards to the silicon touching the block - who knows. I suppose it's safe to say that no sort of plastic/rubber/silicon likes heat. It's all a matter of how much. I'd try and keep it off the block (if possible). Even though it doesn't get crazy hot, it still gets too hot to touch - try touching your cam cover after a long drive (don't, i'm just saying). I'd try and keep it off if possible, but if you really can't, then hey, gaskets touch heat, but they do die after like 5-10 years. I mean, I know the turbo catridge gets hot and everything, but I just don't see the need to have an additional line sitting on a glowing exhaust housing/dump. The stock setup wasn't like that, so I try and keep everything off the hot stuff. It's nice and neat anyways. I'm sure your braids are probably a bit longer. They usually are, since people prefer that then making them short. You should still be able to work with it. Hope that helps

yep, I've got one. Provided you've installed it preoperly, and it's not rattling, that's how they are. No softer when in a gtr. All big pumps are loud. Tomei/nismo is no different. I've installed them both, and it sounds identical

Nope, it's perfectly normal to smell. it's burning oil. You're bound to have a touch of oil when installing it. Think about how hot the exhaust gets. First time I saw that I shat myself, but nah, you're right, as long as if there are no leaks etc. Not good for lines to sit on the exhaust housing or dump. I always make sure that they clear.

I love that purple. I painted my coil cover with that. Supercheap export purple When I installed the last atmo bov, all I did was bung the return pipe, that's it.

I know someone who's had a 2530 highflowed/rebuilt by GCG, so they should be able to do them. Fairly honest people GCG, give them a buzz

That's a rip off. Turbo light is semi synth oil for a start. I'm now using a new oil, but my last bottle of motul 8100 5w40 (fully synthetic) bought about 1 month ago was $52. I now buy ELF excellium for $45. The prices I said are normal rrp prices just from various auto shops around sydney.

Hahaha, alright, i'll type sometghing quickly The gtr turbos are smaller than the gtst turbos. Nor are they direct bolt on. The best turbo for your car under 600, unless if you snap up some ultra super mega bargain would be an rb25 turbo. around $400 for a good one. Flows about 25% more than stock turbo at the same boost. Anything bigger and you need to start looking at injectors, afm, ecu, clutch, suspensions, wheels, tyres etc

You're imagining it.

That's gold about you pouring the fuel back into the tank. When I did the fuel filter on my mate's car, we were trying to think of good ideas of what to do with the fuel. When doing the filter, it drops a fair bit of fuel. My friend thought the most effective way of not wasting it was to light it on fire (not near car)

this question was just asked a month or two ago. jeez. turbo under 600 - rb25 turbo. have a search.

All cars were designed to transport people some way or another Even aussie cars were designed to. Whether they actually do in real life, as oppossed to just break down is another story. Bogan power =/ winnah

I did my banjos up tight, but not give yourself a hernia tight. Nowhere near the maximum I could tighten them - they seem pretty soft, so it looks like it's possible to turn the head right off them if you go max tightness. The way that a wiseman described it to me is the washers are just like your sump washers. Do it up as tight as you'd do that. What I found, is that there's plenty of room to check and tighten after if needs be anyways. No part number - just tell them what you need, they'll look it up.

oil drain gasket - nissan. only a few dollars. I'd prefer a genuine one then making one out of crap gasket paper that mgiht seep - save the hassle of taking it off later.

no need for teflon tape - that's what the washer is for. the washer is the gasket. Just tighten it correctly and it won't leak.

I thought egt sensors are normally 1/8 npt? who knows.

Hey greg where do you buy that style of stud remover from? I have ever only seen the easy out style of very thin tapered remover - they'er brittle. What is your type called? are they reuseable? like can you get that broken stud off the end of it afterwards? or do you need to buy one for each broken stud