MANWHORE

defintiely material removed for balancing. The thing that interests me, is the stock turbos never have that. Are they not balanced?

Another idea - just undo any one of those m6 nuts or bolts near where you need, get a small 90 degree bracket from bunnings, and mount the sensor onto that. Drill the hole in the bracket to the right size for the bolt, and put the bolt back in

birns, just take the standard boost solenoid off and use that bracket Either that, or on the strut tower, there are some pre threaded holes with a plug in it for an m6 bolt you can either mount the sensor usign one of those holes, or get a little bit of metal bracket from bunnings, and use the bolt hole a bolt the plate on have fun - no need to drill.

Nice choice. Nice to see you've done some reading. I'd hit up the 32 actuator (runs as much boost as you'd want to on the stock turbo). don't worry about low boost high boost etc. Just control boost with your foot. I'd just remove that 2 stage bleeder thing. If the 32 actuator doesn't run enough boost, put in a proper bleeder. 32 actuator - cheap yet effective

Your post is totally useless in helping people help you diagnose your problem. Perhaps if you outline what you've done. e.g. whether it's a new engine swap, or whether you bought it like that, whether it's ever started, whether you have or think you've done anything stupid or dodgy etc. Spray some nulon brand 'start ya bastard' into it

brake fluid. there's this thing with the skylines that i've seen. since people never change the fluid, it's like the cylinder itself has gone black. like even if you change it, it might still look black.

PS: you don't even have to take the globes out. on the top of the heatlight, it says h1. on the cap on the back of the foggies, it says h3 whatever.

It's the same crap. refer to the r33 tut

you probably can (depending on the design, and whether the edges will foul (hard to describe). why would you want to though? doesn't your filter relocator have provision for sensors? if not, you'd be better drilling and tapping into that instead.

Is it worth it? hell yeah! near similar to stock response and according to sydneykid, 25% more flow at the same boost! straight bolt on, what could be better

You just generally need sockets and spanners. Maybe pliers, and screwdriver etc. just take your time, look logical at what the next step woudl be. e.g. removing this bolt will allow me to remove this one etc.

Pick up a cheap stick welder from bunnings for $99 , a couple of washers, and nuts, and do it yourself. on the plus side, you'll have a tool that you can use again. Yeah, I know stick welders are old and ghetto, but if it works the treat, then

Bruno, when I read that, it cracked me up so hard. They're usually rusty, because the exhaust housings are not stainless steel I know you're joking though. Generally, on the forums here, expect to pay about 350-400 for a sI turbo. 400-500 for a sII turbo. Don't get sucked in like some guys where they try and buy a cheap one. if someone's selling it off for cheap, it's usually for a reason - namely that it's old or worn. Sometimes, you can get unlucky, like i've bought a turbo, and shaft play was good etc, but it popped almost as soon as I put it on. But generally, the ones in better condition will last. If someone has taken the turbo off a low k car, and is looking for $50 more, $50 isn't that muich in the scheme of things. I would take his over the one that is selling for $300.

build plate. I was just wondering, since quite a few 89 ones have the bigger ones. i'm guessing that the smaller bolts were a very early 89 model thing.

People say that on the r32 it seems to be around 14 psi. but it depends on the car and on the mods. There isn't really a safe boost. any increase over stock increases the chance of the cermaic turbine getting spat out. I'd make sure that i had the usual mods like fuel pump, fmic, exhaust, highflow cat etc before I even thought of turning up the boost. make sure you've got a gauge etc. If the car was mine, i'd run 12-13 psi, but that's just me. hope that helps. have a search in the rb20 results thread - it'll give you an idea.

Sold

hks one will easily hold 15 psi.

rstme, what month is 89 is yours? jeez, all this worry about the wrong size banjos! I've got the end of a 24mm line that you can join up with a rubber hose, and i've got the bajo bolt too, if you guys need it.

I can sit on a point when decelerating on the stock ecu, and do the burble popping. is that only powerfc related?

No, I din't use anything. just 2 hose clamps. Give it a whirl mate.

It's no biggy mate. Just use gasket paper. cost you like $3 or something. It's not really under heat, or anything to degrade the paper.

genuine is 180 rrp - trade is less. labour - you're talking 10 minutes. you don't even have to take the heatshield off. I would feel bad charging someone to do that. I'd just do it for free - pr - encourage them to come back next time. or charge then $10 labour or something. having said that though, you have paid them for some diagnostic time. If your mechanic doens't have a scantool, I wouldn't have got them to diagnose it though. mucking aroudn with a multimeter takes ages, and wastes your money.

joe, i was being slightly sarcastic about the wharfies. My message wasn't totally sarcastic though. What I was getting at, is people often go team extreme just because of the fact that a car has been sitting there for a little while. Fuel - will go off, so i'd drive easily until i can refill again. oil - oil guru websites have generally said that there is no difference between oil sitting in your sump and in a bottle. If it was new before you left it, then it's still new. filter - why would it go off coolant - needs to be changed every 2 years anyways. diff and gbox oil - refer to oil above. I'd like to further add, that gearbox and diff oil needs to be changed even less frequently than engine oil, so it's even less of a concern than the engine oil. pas fluid - same. belts - should be fine. I do agree with disconnecting the cas and giving it a crank though - get some oil flowing before you start it. I also agree with starting it and letting it warm up - should always do that anyways

I agree with beer barron and ash. I would definitely be starting at zero. Most people find they gain results havign the exhaust cam retarded - 4 d. very minimal gains are to be had from the intake cam. Having said that though, every car is different. You can't just bung it on 4d retard and expect it to be the best. it might ping like hell, and make less power, or it might be perfect. When I do mine, i'm gonna leave the cover off, go to the dyno. pay for 3 power runs and muck around with it.

not only is r+ r annnoying, it makes you have less power than if you backed off the boost until it didn't hit r + r. so a tune is definitely worth it once you hit r + r