MANWHORE

No nitrile rubber sheet (solvent resistant). I'm very careful and picky with my own car, so I make sure everything is perfect, and i don't skimp on things. But I also don't pay for unnecessary things, coz i'm not made of money. the install is perfect. no buzzing, fuzzy, wuzzing, knocking. All that I can hear that's different, is the pump is a little louder(perfectly normal for a big pump). That's exactly how it sounds in a gtr anyways. Tomei and nismo pumps sound like this too. it sounds really cool. the gtr doens't use rubber (you saw the gtr cradle), and neither does the gtst (have a look at birnie's thread for the tomei pump swap). what I did do, is you know the gtst rubber that sits under the pump. I trimmed that one to fit (you won't need to, you've got the gtr rubber (grrr, it'll be neater than my install). you'll need that. I used 2 hose clamps. Most people usually use 1, but i used 2 just to make sure it didn't make noise, or come lose. They were $3 each, so $3 is no biggy, i'll just eat 1 less cheese burger. I clamped it tight, such that the clamps bent a little bit (doens' tmatter, i'm not taking them off and reusing them). other things I can say - the wiring - undo those little nuts - put a 7mm spanner on the nut, and use a screw driver on the other side. The gtst ones transfer over like it was made for it. the little rubber sleeve goes back on perfectly. She's beautiful. I won't be home until the weekend, but you're more than welcome to listen to mine to see how much noise it makes. Having said that though, if you must use rubber, I forgot the name of the place (my home pc died, so I lost all my documents and pictures). In the past, if i've used rubber, i just slit a piece of efi hose, open it up, and use that. works a charm. but honestly, I wouldn't bother.

Hahahahahahahahahahahaha, silver, you'll be right mate. Honestly, these gtr pumps are the best pumps. I went to justjap, and asked them about the walbro and bosch 040 pumps (i then asked them about the gtr pump). the gtr pump was more expensive than them both. I asked why, coz it was second hand. He said the pump is better This was before I did research on pumps. he was actaully right.

the r33 is faster stock, and with similar mods. handling. both in perfect condition - i'd hae to say the 32. having said that though, in terms of it being faster, that's only provided the components are in good condition (momst of which aren't, the average 32 being 3-5 years older). having said that though, the 32 is not THAT much better in terms of handling. few mods on the r33 will see it quick (most cars aren't stock anyways).

In regards to the pump sock. that's actually a good question. Well, the reason for me, is because my new pump didn't come with a sock. They usually come pump only. also, because my car's done so little kays, everything on it including the sock is almost brand new. In the past, i've used either gtr sock or the gtst sock. Any sock is fine. all it does it sediment from getting into the pump. bigger, smaller, it isn't really a big deal. gtr ones aren't 'better quality', they're the same crap.

It's not 'heaps smaller'. the rb20 elbow is a 'bit smaller'. iv'e modded 1 of them to fit, and it's not that big a deal

I don't like the turbo. I want to get a hks gtrs. When I found out the 'fact' that i was told, i realised how good the gtr pumps are, so I bought another one, and put it in. lol.

does it bolt on? sorta - need new oil and water lines. need a 90 degree silicon bend but apart from that, yes, it deoes.

If you want to get a highflow, and don't want to have your car off the road while you send it to gcg/precision to highflow, i've got an rb25 turbo that i'm lending aroudn to sau members to use so they dont' have their car off the road while the turbo's being highflowed. I'm in sydney too. if you want, my number's 0403 211 482. highflows are very good. good response and have potential to put out lots of power proviiding you've got all the supporting mods..

hey, can you oil gurus tell me what you think of elf Excellium GP 5W-40. I used to use motul 8100 motul costed me $52 for 5L. the ELF now costs $45. Which is the better oil. Is there anything better I can get for around $50?

250-300 rwkw, you need a new turbo. that's what i'd do next. of course, for that, you'll also need injectors, afm, a clutch, tune etc.

paul, have you worked it out yet? got all your parts etc?

yeah mate, you sure can see it very easily. pop the heatshield off - it's 5 bolts. be careful, it's likely that about half of the bolts will snap from the constant hot cold hot cold. be careful when taking them off. you'll see the oil line on the top - that should be a 17 mm. the one on the side is the water line - either 22 or 24 mm. if it's 24, you're in luck. if it's 22, it's not that bad. you can just get the lines, they're cheap, or if you're in a hurry, you can get a braided line from pirtek etc, no biggy!

nathan's the one! he was the one who did the ones on my ford. good bloke, honest top bloke. annandale i think it was from memory.

just turn the cap. hehehe, then tae the cap off, undo the metal clip, undo the wire on the bulb, swap, done! if you've got the stock intercooler, to reach the one on the passenger's side, you mgiht have to taek your front bar off.

you have to get the arc one. you can order it from nengun etc from japan.

h1 - headlight.

how's your powersteering fluid level? also, what colour is the fluid? it'll probably be redish, but how red? brown? red? black etc.

ben, I just fitted a gtr pump into my own car! 1. no, fuel lubricates the pump. you can't do it in air,water, oil anything. fuel only. 2. no need. I didn't install the valve in mine, and it is identical to how it was with the gtst pump. 3. i reused mine. It's really such a simple seal - when you take it off, you'll know what i mean. unless if it's split or something, it shouldn't leak. the seal is like $15 or something anyways. 4. nope, flow rate is related to pressure. at no pressure, it might flow something really high. as pressure increases, it drops. 5. the attachment for the gtr sock and the gtst sock is IDENTICAL. just remove the clip, transfer the old one across. It really is a piece of piss. In regards to the walbro pumps. I definitely wouldn't run a walbro, especially with a bigger turbo liek you have. Many of the guys here have found that the car leaned out with the walbro up around 230 rwkw (even if you might not be going for that atm, no point putting somethign in that flows a little more than the stock pump). If the walbro pump is only good enough to be run with the stock turbo, then there is no place for it even, since the stock pump happily supports anythign the stock turbo can throw at it. also in regards to bosch pumps, pm t04gtr and he'll tell you why they're bad. I agree with his reasoning, and i have found similar issues. if you measure your stock fuel pump wiring, at idle, your pump will only be getting 5 volts, and with any accelerator action, it'll be getting about 10.5 volts. this is a HUGE way off 13.8 volts. I'm not allowed to release the flow data, but at 13.8 volts, the stock gtst pump flows a huge amount more than what people thought it does. Also, the gtr pump flows HEAPS more than what people think it does too, but i'm not allowed to release my info. people are actually getting ripped off everyday when they buy 'something'. PS: you're welcome to have a look at my car if you like. It is a perfect example of how a gtr pump should be installed. It is a smigim louder than the gtst pump (like barely). i.e. all you hear is pump noise. i.e. electrical noise. not rattling, not pump knockign on the tank because it was installed badly like that thread I showed you how the pump was just cable tied in.

I think that if you read his thread carefully, by road racing, he means road as in circuit. well, that was my interpretation anyways. just be careful, drive hard, but not at the absolute limit.

the head on the banjo on the r33 turbos and later model r32 turbos are 24mm. the earlier one is 22 mm. I know that measuring the head in the nuts and bolts industry doens't garantueepoeoihwwpjeew (spelling spaz) the thread diametre, but i have onyl ever seen the two sizes.

lifting an engine - that's just plain ghetto! engine cranes are cheap at supercheap auto. Even if they're shit quality and even if you use it once, just buy it and do it properly.

any contact with the paint causes swirlies. Depends on how careeful you are. I never touch my paint normally. never brush past it. I wash with the double bucket method, and only use a sponge once then throw it away. if you're this careful, then don't use it. if you aren't, then the machine won't treat it any worse than you normally do.

nothing, just fire it up and drive. No different to my car that was sitting in the garage for half a year doing the turbo. when your car came over from japan, it coudl have been sitting in a holding yard for months. The wharfies would have prepared your car for driving by cold starting it and ripping a burnout at the rev limiter off the boat.

bhdave that's not necessarily correct. I've done an 89 and it was 110% the 24mm one.

i'll just add that in regards to the elbow, it's very easy to modify the rb20 one to fit.