MANWHORE

It is called a direct replacement. But it's not really. It is not like the tomei one. The tomei one is literally everything you need and more is supplied. fuel tank gasket, bracket, pump, fuel pump sock, etc etc. EVERYTHING. The walbro needs mods to wiring to fit, needs to be mounted, no nothing is supplied etc.

yes it definitely does. Can you please explain the difference in characteristics that cause the phenomena I described above?

I'm not after the noise of the stock turbo - otherwise i'd just run the stock turbo. I actually like the flutter, it's sik but that's besides the point. I'm trying to understand why it's happening, and why the bov isn't opening yet.

Waz, i'll just answer this question quickly, so as not to divert the aim of this thread (so other people don't divulge on this tangent): It is very very laggy. On the stock ecu on 11 psi, any gains are not noticeable due to r+r (i.e. power output is probably similar). It wasn't a direct bolt on, had to bend the lines, and rotate the housings.

Hey paul, nah nah, it was good of you to comment. please comment more if you have any ideas, that's what I'm looking for, people's theories on why this is like that.

silver - No offence to you personally, but i'm not some noob who doesn't know that I need to tune it to take advantage of the potential. If you notice, I made no mention of the response, or power. This is not the topic we're discussing here. We're talking specifically about the theory behind In answer to your question though, it will be getting a z32, increasing boost to 19 psi, injectors and a tune. That doesn't answer why the bov noise is like this, and even after doing all that, it's still going to do the same thing, as I won't be changing bov.

Paul It is the stock bov. Not adjustible. It is definitely working. I tested the mecahnism, and the firmness is the same as when i had the stock turbo on. It's not siezed etc. Edit: I just read your later post. I disagree in a sense. Because, going by that theory, ok, if the highflow has only 4 psi at 3k rpm, when the stocko would have had 7, that means that if I released my foot on the stocko at 2k rpm when it had 4 psi, then it should flutter? You still have the stock turbo. Can you test it? I never had flutter ever on the stock turbo, whetehr releasing at 1 psi, or 20 psi

Ok, what that valve is, is it's an anti reversion valve. What it means, is that when you turn off the car, the fuel line stays pressurised. If you don't have one, then you'll have to turn your car to on, let the pump prime, then start it. Otherwise, you'll need to press the gas a bit or it won't start. The stock setup actually has one of those valves already. I suppose the reason why they supply you wiht a new valve, is because they expect that you'll be running more pressure/flow with the new pump, so maybe the new valve is better at handling that. Having said that I have used the stock valve, and haven't had any problems. However, as it's there, I don't see why you would not use it? lol.it's just like howit comes with a new gasket, would you consider using your old one? What will you otherwise do wth the new one? sell it? lol

1400, can you comment on why that is the case? I just don't understand why - same bov, same pod, except the bov isn't opening anymore until higher rpm with the new turbo.

I sort of disagree with you there matey. See, the idea with a pod filter, why it flows so muhc more than a factory airbox, is because of the surface area of the filter. Before any of you jump in and say oh, but i didn't notice anymore power, i'm talking cfm test on a pod and an airbox alone. If you didn't see more power, it's because the airbox wasn't a significant restriction at your power level. Anyways, back to what i was saying, by putting on a shield, you are essentially creating a restriction as air can only come from around the shield. That might not lose power (airbox v pod argument as above - is it a restriction at your power level), but at some level of power, it would be a restriction. Putting a shield on it is basically putting you closer to the stock airbox - may as well just run that? I think of it as a slider. On the one side, you have a completely exposed pod - flows the most, lots of heat. Other side - stock airbox - flows not as much as the pod, less heat. You can go anywhere from one extreme, to the other, or anywhere in between

Hey guys For those of you who have been following, I have gotten a slide highflow turbo charger. The turbo was installed properly, and there are no problems. The purpose for this post, is: 1. If you are running a slide turbo and have had the same observations, please say so. 2. If you're a turbo guru, or have researched this area, please comment why this is the case. Most of you have driven an rb with a stock turbo, stock bov and pod filter. The things that you'll immediately notice are: 1. Massive induction noise when pressing the gas. This sounds like a sucking noise. It's sick, I like it 2. When you release the gas, you hear pssscccht. Even though the bov is plumback, you hear it throught the pod because the noise isn't muffled like in an airbox. After installing the slide turbo and running 11 psi 1. induction noise isn't as loud. I put this down to the fact that the exhaust has also gotten louder, so I can't hear it as much. 2. I don't hear pssscccht unless i'm up at about 4.5-5k rpm before I release. If I release before then, I hear flutter. I thought that I mgiht have left cloth in the intake piping, or that the bov was seized, so I took it off, checked it, the vac line wasn't split etc. It was as if, with the stock turbo, if someone had tightened the bov spring. At low rpm, even if i release my foot when the boost is like 3-4psi or something, it still flutters. I do not believe that the bov can't handle the flow of air, because i've run a stock turbo at 20 psi before for testing purposes, and it didn't even flutter when releasing, just made a massive woosh. surely the slide turbo at 3-4 psi does'nt flow more than the stock turbo at 20psi. This thread is not for flaming slide turbos, but rather, to gain an understanding of whether it is my particular setup that's doing as I observe, or whether it is the turbo that's different. Just like how nic's thread is the definitive thread about slide turbos on rb20s, I'm hoping that this thread can turn into a FAQ for the other aspects of the slide turbos. Hopefully it will save a bit of time for slide as well, because i'm sure he gets asked this stuff a lot. Some questions that you guys mgiht want to answer (not all are relevant to everyone): 1. if you have a slide turbo, is this your exact observation? if not, please comment on how it's different 2. if you have experience with another type of highflow, is the induction noise louder or softer than the stock turbo? does it also flutter when you let go at low rpm, and psscccht at higher rpm 3. For you turbo gurus, why is it that the slide highflow flutters when releasing at low rpm, but not at higher rpm?

Come on guys, someone buy this. It's sitting in my car rolling around in the wagon. Buy it before someone steals it.

Think about it this way too. You know how hard it is to do the belt (Radiator out, etc. So at a minimum, you have to pay $40 for coolant). Some people automatically replace the idler and tensioner, because if you check it for play, it mgiht be alright now, but will it be alright in another 100 000ks? The guys that replace the bearings, usually replace the bearing bolts too. in relation to the cam cover gaskets, I've noticed that a lot of rbs with over 80-100 000ks start to have oil seeps from the covers. It's not a problem, the gasket is just a maintenance item, like anything else - nothing lasts forever. It's good to do it as soon as you see leaks, because the oil makes a big mess. Having said that though, iv'e noticed that the screws that hold the cover on seem to work themselves a bit loose, so if you tighten them to the right torque, it might actually stop all leaks.

When you replace a timing belt, it will often not have any cracks on it etc. If you look at it underneath, and squeeze the belt looking at the teeth, that's where you can normally see the cracks.

Hey guys, I'm looking for an rb25 elbow preferably today. Cheers Chris

r33 eddy - no offence to you personally, but that's the biggest bodge job i've heard of. there is no need to unbolt the engine mounts - waste of time. you do have to unbolt the exhaust hanger off the gearbox, and take it off the front pipe - more space. you don't have to jack the engine much - tiny bit. Dropping the gearbox down? We're not in the ghetto or something. Get a big trolley jack and use that to control the box down, and use it to lift it back up again?

Interested to see your results. Hey moanie, have you thought about going for gtr shafts and diff so that the same thing that happened to abo won't happen? Also, the gtst viscous is pretty gay. the one on the 32 is absolutely cactus and single spins all the time, and we ahven't done that many burnouts on it.

I disagree. I personally don't like the no wing look. If I wanted a car without a wing, i'd buy a gay family car like a commo or something. Call me old fashion, but sports cars have big wings I have a gtr wing, and I wouldn't have it any other way.

Mate, the sII wing fits straight on - it should come with the sII rubber too, so it's perfect. Best mod you can ever do - get rid of that sI wing.

I'll take the pump - sent you a pm

have a search man. Dump it, refill it, bleed it.

The simple fact of the matter is not that you have an engineering certificate. Simple, the act requires that noise emitted is not over 90db. yours doesn't emit 90db. so you're right and he is wrong. I would be firstly approaching the officer (after he's had some time to cool off, presenting the legislation to him, notifying him that he has the ability to correct his mistake). I would then be approaching his superior. If not, i'd take him to court. I'd just represent myself. I find it rubbish that you went to the effort and expense of getting an engineering certificate, and then, you were minding your own business, and he decides to power trip you. If you were doing burnouts or speeding, fair enough. But you weren't doing anything wrong, and your car complies.

can't remember off the top of my head. just turn one, it's not that big a deal. if it's the wrong one, turn it back the other way.

can you do it? please please please. lol. It'll be good for you too, so you can get rid of that stupid bonnet rod. I totally agree with what you said. even cefiros had them. It would have costed nissan like $5 more. Bloody povos causing us hassles now. the skyline rods are really bad, because they don't hook in that well. I get so worried i'm gonna drop the bonnet when i wiggle the car when moving heavy parts etc.

haha, hey kez, can you weld mate? got a welder? had a look at your car mate. looks awesome.