MANWHORE

Dr MAfia - care to explain more? so that it can be avoided? did they instruct you that the level won't be fully topped up and not to drive hard till you get home, let it cool down, then fill it up again (over the next few days)? Or did you fang it straight away thinking your radiator would be bette rwith new coolant?

That's a part of the charcoal canister. Flip it upside down, and put it back on. The charcoal can normally has that knob on it.

Just to confirm, was that $140 including the price of all studs? How many broken ones needed to be removed? cos if that's includign the price of all studs, that's not a bad price, coz there's quite a few there, so at $2 each, it's not to bad. Most stud remover guys charge about 60-80 just to remove 1.

Guys, if you check out the pictures that I have attached down the bottom, I know they aren't strictly skylines there, but the tein one for the skyline is very similar. They utilise the bolt halfway down the guard. They put a ball there, and clip the strut onto the ball. For the bonnet bracket they just put a ball next to the edge of the bracket, and clip the strut onto it.

Mods: the reason this is in the fabrication thread, is because it's not strictly a wtb. I'm hoping that we can develop this into a tutorial sort of thing for how they are fabricated. People are always popping up threads about where to buy these, and people always answer go down to your wreckers and pick up a set for $20. That's not much help when mods need to be made (obviously since they dont' suit your car). Also, there are about a million different cars down at the wreckers, so which car? I'm really hoping that one of you fab guys could help me with something. I've been looking to get bonnet struts for my car (r33 gtst). I've had a look at the tein ones on nengun - $200. Those are a royal ripoff. Also, they are probably not gassed enough to be able to lift up the gtst bonnet, so i might have to pay to get it regassed. Basically, I'm hoping that one of you could make something for me that bolts onto the bonnet bracket, and that bolt hole in the guard, without drilling any holes. If you have an r33, that would make it easier. If you don't have an r33, i'm sure someone would be willing to lend you their car to just measure etc. A good starting point that I thought is to use monroe shocks from auto shops. Theyr'e only aobut $50 new each, and they come in a variety of lengths, strengths and with different connectors on the ends. Alternatively, hitting up the wreckers could work too as long as they're in good condition, because as an example, pick and pay in sydney charge $10 each. I'll hit up some pictures for ideas in a sec. If you manage to make one that works, i'm sure people would be up for a group buy, because these are pretty handy. I don't like the bonnet rod, because sometimes I get worried i'll knock it and drop the bonnet. My number's 0403 211 482. Cheers Chris

As random as it's supposed to be, everyone i know has been pinged for that. Myself included. It is a f**king pain in the but. No insurance, no rego. I had to tow my car there, drive another car to get rego, leaving my friend sitting in my car so that no bogan would nic it. Then I had to get insurance over the phone. Drive back to my car, then drive it. bloody waste of time and money.

Hey r33 god. Can you confirm, does it flutter when you're accelerating? or does it flutter when you're releasing the accelerator.

Al, correct me if i'm wrong, but i remember seeing before that you absolutely hated your vg30 highflow and sold it off for cheap wasn't it. I think you found it very laggy?

PS: hope everything goes well with your gcg highflow. You shouldn't have any problem lining things up. The last one went on like it was a stocko.

If you torque them correctly, and if the manifold is machined flat, it should be right. The manifold has already warped, so it might not warp much anymore. Like I said, my car's still got the stock studs in there, and they haven't broken yet (my car has very very low ks though)

bear in mind that the jap price is different to the aussie price. even if a car might have costed 50k there, it could cost 70 k here. Check out the new price of the 350 z as an example.

Hey ben Nah, it's hard to describe, but i'll try my best. try and visualise it. When it was new, it would have gone smoothly on, like how it does now after you enlarged the holes. The studs would haev sat where they were. The problme is, being cast, that it warps. After machining it, the manifold is still warped. So where the holes used to be isn't where it is now. Machining it just makes it flat, doesn't unwarp it.

basti - have you noticed that there's always water under the trims, and stuff like that. I've found that drying it can't even get this water out. What I do, is I let the car dry for a few days. Then I use a blow gun to make sure there's no dust on it, then i wax it.

sik, so does it flutter more than before (did it even flutter before)? is the exhaust louder? is induction noise louder - also the questions in my last message.

Also, what's your impression of the turbo - lagginess? power compared to before at the same boost level? Is the car louder?

Hey matey, care to elaborate more on what the issue was, and how you fixed it (for when mine comes). I've done many turbos before, just wondering specifically in relation to the slide one. did you have to rotate the housings? etc etc - or what was the problem - did you have the problem with the water line that the guys were talking about etc.

fuel pump - yes upgrade ecu - yes, good gains to be had. stock ecu can't be 'tuned' must be remapped. Very few peopel remap r33 ecus. I'm working on a new project atm - r33 ecu retunes. Stay tuned - I might release it (after I get my turbo).

jap coilovers are known for being harsh and bumpy. change for a set of working stockos (not old r32 oines with 100 000ks on it). Newish ones. Low torque - that's what's gay about 32s. get a 33.

is you stuff old? my friend noticed this after leaving it overnight with the lid dopen

gtst box = gtr box without the ugly betty on the side

Price you're looking for? it says 69 on the packet. lol

I've hit 25 psi before. went really hard. Didnt' pop (I wouldnt' recommend you doing it if you want the turbo to last though)

I can't answer that question in regards to the slide turbo, because I don't have one yet. So is the turbo not a striaght bolt in like it's claimed? Although, I we did recently rotated the housings on a turbo when installign a top mount manifold. We just loosened the bolts, turned it, tightened it.

T'he housings are the same, but the catridge is not. I've installed many turbos, but havne't installed the actual slide turbo because I haven't received it yet. do the lines have enough flex to move them into place? Are all lines out of place by the same amount - i.e. what about if you rotate the housings?

PS: what state are you in