MANWHORE

Just use a normal 12 point 10 mm socket? or was it an 11, I can't remember. It's not that tight. If you're having trouble, just hit it with a rattle gun. It'll be off in 2 seconds.

3" should be fine for that power. I'm running 3.5" straight pipe no muffler only because I like it loud.

My friend has a 20 actuator that he's not using. pm offer.

Oh! I just read what you wrote BHDave. In that case, I reckon the easyout would be alright. I meant they snap when the bolt is seized in big time. My friend helped me to remove a bolt using the welding method. The bolt was totally dry when it was removed. The part had been soaked in a bucket of wd for days. That's how seized it was

Joe, you good at using easy outs? If I ever need to use em, I'm gonna get you to do it I dunno, just never had a good experience with them. If I need to remove someting, it's usually because the bolt has been seized in, and it's sheered the head. So that means it's stuck in really really really really really tight. So tight that wd/penetrene/crc/inox can't even penetrate it. I figure, if the whole big bolt will snap, the thin easyout has no chance.

I've pmed a mod about it. r33 god, pm me if you wanna talk about it. I'm talking to a few other guys too.

Removin the actuator takes about 2 minutes if you don't have your heatshield on. If you have your heatshield, it takes about 4 minutes Basically, you undo the 2 bolts holding it onto the turbo. They are 13 mm from memory. Then, you undo the e clip. The way I do it, is I use a flat head screw driver, and just push it slowly. Try not to drop it, because it's small. Your turbo might not even have one. I'm not sure why dale found preload on the shaft, on about 10 of the last turbos i've taken an actuator off, i've never needed to do anything other than unbolt it, undo the e clip, then the actuator could be lifted off with the strength of 1 finger.

Everyone always uses double sided tape (the strong one, not the cheap one), and it seems to hold ok. On this r32 that we installed one into, it rattled over big bumps, but car runs 12 kg springs.

sirty wan number wan !! winnah

5k won't buy you much. an r31 would be a good base, and you can afford a few mods.

No need for a hks actuator. One of my friend's has a hks actuator, and it doesn't work well below 14 psi. That's fine if you want to run lots of boost, but if you're hoping to stay at 7psi until you get a tune later, no good.

They're not laggy. What highflow is it? Is it a slide highflow? If it's the actuator, then it's stuffed. Replace it. IF the flap is constantly open a littl lebit, think about it like this, you're trying to build boost, but it's just gettign released.

I don' have the gtr bov itself, but I have the 2 pipes on both sides that you mount the gtr bovs to. would that help you? Then you could just source the bovs themselves (when people sell the bovs, they normally don't come with the stock piping.

JStyle, I'm gonna be down right blunt and obvious with you. This is a joke. WHERE THE Beep IS MY BEZEL OR WHAT ARE YOU DOING ABOUT IT? We all put in our orders over 6 months ago. I sent you a pm, like I was instructed to in this thread, and I get a reply from your dumbass self saying 'sorry about the delay. Kezza has internet again'. Did I ask you if Kezza has internet? I am not the only one waiting. there are about 5-10 of us. When I ordered the bezel, I checked about 5 times to make sure I was getting a sII bezel. I was assured it was.

I'd go for a GCG highflow turbo. Personally tried and tested. Close to stock spool time, but huge power. It's ball bearing. Bolts striaght up. No modding lines etc. Includes everythign you need e.g. gaskets, washers, etc etc. Cheap -- 1750. The precision turbo highflows in the group buy section are also good - 1550. ball bearing too. I personally haven't tested them, but I know people who have, and i'd get one.

I have a spare rb20 elbow here. They can be adapted to fit the rb25 turbo very easily. I'm also in sydney - $20 if you like. 0403 211 482.

nah, they're very different. You can have many many different types e.g. there's 5 stud, 6 stud for a start. Gtst is 6 stud. some don't have studs and have a round output that you clamp onto etc.

hey wog, mine does the dog start thign too. I have a new battery, so it's not that. I have plenty of cranking power, once it's cranked over, that's when it's a dog. when i release the key. I have'nt cleaned the aac yet though. Cheers Chris

I reckon that if you don't even know how to bleed the coolant system, that's most likely your problem. When you change the turbo, you get about 4-4.5 L out of that water banjo even after you've drained teh radiator. If you just top the radiator thinking it's all full, you'll be about 4-4.5L short.

that's really really strange. Sorry I can't help.

Hey guys I'm selling 4 Advan a032Rs. I traded these off a friend of mine a couple of months ago. I'm selling them because I have about 6 piles of wheels and tyres at home. I want to make room so I can actually have some space for a workbench. Condition - same as beer baron's. You'll be able to run at least 1 track day on it. Depends on how you drive, if you drive easy, you should be able to get more. Best to come have a look. Price: $220. Willing to split. 0403 211 482 - Chris

1 hour is taking your time. No intake piping needs to be taken off, nothing. Just take off the heatsheild, under the bolts, and that's it. It's pretty hard to break the dump bolts if your careful.

how could he tell how many degrees? timing light?

hang on hang on, you guys are talking about 2 different things. Mad is talking about advancin timing via the cas. Bam is talking about the exhaust cam timing.

There are different types of gasket paper. When you said gasket paper - I thought you meant to type that you use for intake components etc.