MANWHORE

Highflowed stuff isn't necessarily bad hey - highflowed turbos? I guess it really depends on how well they're done. Everyone had bad views of highflow turbo too until sydneky kid gave some evidence about the GCG ones.

Sorry I coulddn't help. thought it might have been like the usual tube like one (they can be switched around)

Mate, just put some strength into it. If you're not strong enough, get stronger, come back in a few months and do again. Or get someone stronger. I just did mine, and while it was so tight that I felt the blood vessels in my head were going to explode when i was undoing it, I got it eventually.

come on man, if you expect a decent response, at least take the decency to search. Once people have answered the quwestion about 10 times, their answer gets shorter and shorter. I'll answer: yes. It was just covered last week, and the week before that, and the week before that.

cc, that is a good thing for him to read. CC, I see I may have finally convinced you at last that those hid kits are not all that they're made out to be. May I also suggest Gengis, that you google daniel stern lighting - he's got a very nice summary of the dos and don'ts for lighting. So gengis, in effect, you have installed something that is more glary (trust me, it is, wait till you drive on coming to someone with a ricer kit installed too), and it in fact has less useable light, since it's pointed closer than what your halogens were. That's not very good is it! PS: I don't mean anything bad, just providing information about light (one of my interests).

I keep posting up how bad HID kits are when people ask about them first, but most people don't seem to listen to me. Others don't ask and then go ahead and get sucked in by the marketing bling bling on the hid kit pictures. SAU really does need a lighting section, with a FAQ. So many other forums have these, with pictures of proper hid, and pictures of shit hid. I have a sI and sII r33 headlight here on my test bench and have pictures of the crappy light cut off, hot spots etc. Also have a few other different lights too. It's ridiculous how people are able to sell that absolute crap. It's misrepresentation and misleading and deceptive conduct.

yours is probably the sI. I am unaware of anyone else who received the sII bezel.

I agree with you mate. The thing is, a lot of people are happy to run no filter. The way I see it, is i'd prefer not to, in case if large chunks of things, or bits of leaf get sucked in etc. The good thing about the stainless ones, is they would flow basically as much as no filter (minus a tiny bit) and still filter out decent amoutns of stuff. The mesh is very very fine. It would filter big chunks of dust, probably sand, etc etc. Just not the real fine stuff. I reckon most of us change oil fairly regularly, so i'm not too concerned with filtration. Yes, I know small dust can do damage over time, but hey, how many of us want our engines to last 500 000ks. kn filters do filter a lot better. So do the apexi ones. But the stainless ones definitely flow more. the question with intake always is AT WHAT FLOW RATE DOES YOUR CURRENT INTAKE BECOME A RESTRICTION. If the kn is not a restriction, even thought he stainless has the capacity to flow more, it won't make anymore power. That's why at low power levels, peopel dont' notice any increase in power with filter upgrades. It definitely makes it more responsive though (if you hvae a cold air intake too).

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...daughter++board Check out this thread for a start. There are numerous links in there for peopel who make the daughter boards, people who tune etc. Dr Drift is someone who is well known for remaps. He'll be able to help you out if you shoot him a pm.

Remapping an r34 ecu is quite simple. There are daughter boards available. What do you need to do and how is it done? you call up an ecu remapper, tell him to tune it, pay him and it's tuned.

There will always be those filtration tests. all that I can say is read that test, take it as you will then make up your decisoion. I will say though that those filters are the highest flowing out of all of them. Undoubtedly. Deosn't matter what the test says. That test is biased to the apexi filter. I have personall tested some of the filters myself and I have noticed that the apexi filter is MORE restrictive than the hks mushroom pod filters. The stainless ones flow more than the hks mushroom pod. As flow and filtration are proportional, it goes to say that filtration should be worse on the stainless ones. I personally am not too concerned abobut filtration, but some people are.

Why does it matter? a normal bulb can be put in any way. If it's an LED, just try it one way if it deosn't work, try the other. Just multimeter the car your're working on? Sorry, I can't help, because my car isn't kept at home.

I'd also like to add, that as the light has been hotspotted, as you have more light in that area than you did previously, you have less light in other places. The net effect is more glare for oncoming traffic, less useable light for you. You end up pointing the light done, so you get less distance, and once again, crappier less useful light. You also have a good chance of getting defected. If you have an accident at night, the other driver is quite rightly entitled to blame you saying that your headlights caused them to be dazzled (even if that may not have happened). The police will be called, and there's a good chance your insurance will be voided.

Looks pretty crap looking at the pictures of the light itself - heaps of glare. Looking at the picture on the garage wall, there isn't a very clear cut off. There is a lot of glare coming up. There are also major hotspots. lighting is supposed to be as uniform as possible in the area that the light shines. OEM hid is quite uniform in its distribution. Although it doesn't look very bright above where the main part of the light is, I bet if you put your head there, and looked at it for 10 seconds, you'll be seeing white spots when you look around. When you drive around, I bet all the streets signs have gone fluoro. This means it's glaring people. Overall, I'm not a big fan at all.

R33 chips are single write. The maps are contained within the cpu itself. You hvae to buy a new cpu, which allows you to write the map once. People do them, but they're rare. Is there a problem with your current tune?

See, the thing that people don't realise, is that - the snap on low profile long chassis jack isn't good just because it's low. Any small $30 shit jack from autobarn will fit under. The problem with those little ones, is they're shit. they're so flimsy. If you use one, firstly, they dont' jack very high, and secondly, if you lean on the car slightly, you'll see how flimsy it is. Try jacking your car up by the cross member with one of those. The big 2000kg-2500kg jacks are bigger and stronger. Hwoever, the cheap ones ($200ish) are shit. I have one of these at home. IT's hard to let the car down slowly. It seems to drop it. hell, if you want a cheap jack, you can that one if you like. Snap on - quality. You can let the car down nice and slow. The metal is nice and solid, big strong welds etc.

Oh, plastic pieces, that's because the sII turbo has a plastic compressor wheel. When you call me later, I've got better ones that won't do that.

spot on the money kinks. Phillips, osram, hella and narva are the best bulbs money can buy. End of story. They always perform almost identically in bulb tests. They're all up the top. The thing you have to remember is, other brands of bulb have different build quality. It's easy to go, fullyl sick, these t ricer bulbs are nice and white . But what you'll find, is these bulbs often fail bulb tests, because they dont' focus light properly. By buying well made bulbs, the light is focussed onto the road better, so you get more useable light, and of course, less glare to oncoming traffic. Seriously, you wouldn't believe how bad those bulbs perform. It is noticeable, if you change a few different ones in, with your car parked up about 1 m away from the wall, some of them spray light everywhere more than others. You wouldn't think a bulb is a complex precision instrument. Well, it is. Imagine shining a laser pointer at a mirror and reflecting it towards the wall. Imagine moving the laser pointer 1 mm. Imagine how much the light will move over a distance of 10 m, at 50 m, the difference will be huge. **Mind flash** As I've always said, this is the very reason why HID kits are crap. HID itself puts out 3 x as much light. so an oem hid designed headlight puts out lots more light. Yes, they are good. BUT the kits are loads of crap. They end up putting less useable light on the road, and lots more light upwards causing glare. Anyways, back to the topic of halogen bulbs. Keep in mind, that people have different uses of bulbs. That is, different things they want from them. Some want max light. Some want nice white/blue colour. As we've established, those are the brands to buy. It is all a matter of what your needs are. the following are my suggestions: standard bulbs: long life. Quite good light output. plus 30: life is still quite long. 30% more light wiwthin the useable range (about 50-75m) plus slightly longer range. This is achieved through using xenon gas in the bulb, to allow the filament to be overpowered. Thus, having a more tightly wrapped filament increases efficiency. Note: by overpowerd, I do not mean overwatt. They are still 55 watt bulbs. NEVER run a 100 watt bulb in your headlight. I've had to fix 2 headlights this year, because of people who have done that. It will melt your wiring plug, wiring and possibly your headlight. It can cause the reflective material to peel off the reflector, and make your lens go opaque. By overpowered I mean more efficiently. Keep in mind, because of this, the life is a bit shorter. Keep in mind, you're supposed to replace bulbs every year. Efficiency does go down. A bulb that's a few years old might only be putting out 50% of the light it's supposed to. plus 50: same concept as plus 30. 50% more useable light. Life is shorter again, but it's ok. You should still get the recommended year out of them. blue vision: Firstly, a myth about blue/white light. Blue/white coated bulbs are not brighter. They use a blue filter over the bulb to cut out yellow light. yellow light forms the larger part of the spectrum for light produced by a halogen bulb. Thereofre, naturally, by puttting a filter on, light will be whiter, but it will be dimmer. It iwll look brighter, because brighter is whiter. imagine a 9 watt bulb at home v a 100 watt bulb. Having said that, the good brands mentioned above use the plus 50 bulbs then put the filter on them. So they still put out more light than standard bulbs. Keep in mind, the more you fitler it to make it bluer, the dimmer it is. the good branded white bulbs aren't overly filtered. Many of those polarg/piaa/mtec etc use 100 watt bulbs, because they filter the light a lot to make it actually blue, not just white. They need the extra light to compensate. As a result, they do get very hot. There is a good buy. If you want plus 50s, narva have bulbs as good as the rest, but for some reason, their plus 50s is about half the price. e.g. phillips vision plus is about $50. Narva plus 50 is only $25. Hope that helps. I don't like repeating myself, but hopefully next time a bulb thread comes up, someone can link this.

It is not a highflow. Definitely not. The compressor housing still has the groove in it. At the end of the day, metal or bakelite, it's the same thing. the comressor wheel never goes. It's always the exhaust wheel that dies. The bakelite ocmpressor wheel is actually better. It has faster spool.

may I just add, that once you go for the drive, the level might have dropped again depending on whehter you've put it through the gears when you're stationary, so you might have to check it and top it up slightly.

I agree with you about the mess mate. When doing this, it's really hard to get a drain pan big enough. We always drop a little bit when we do it.

hey, yeh, feedback is back, but the submit button doesn't work

Noise is personal preference. I'm running 3.5" straight pipe pretty much, metal highflow cat, 3" split dump/front. I dont' find it overly loud at all. I actually wish it was a bit louder.

Hey ducki, pm sent please reply? Still looking.

blue point is the brand that snap on puts on the tools that they import. www.snapontools.com.au i can't link it, but if you browse through etc etc. jack etc