MANWHORE

People have put in twin thermo setups. Unless if they're done very very well, they will work worse than your clutch fan. The stock fan, with its guide, is very good.

i didn't read your descriptoin, because i'm so tired i can't see very well. But maybe your wastegate actuator rod doesnt' ahve a clip on it and it's come off the wastegate flap?

Hi Dopey I didn't have time to snwer your question the other night, but i've got time now. I'll first answer what you said about the plus 50s, then talk about the polarg. Vision plus (plus 50) globes do output noticeably more light. Cars often come with plus 30 or even plus 50 globes, so the difference might not be noticeable sometimes. If you put a new standard bulb in one headlight and a new plus 50 in the other, you'll notice it. The thing is, they won't give you extreme light difference (not like hid v halogen), because ontrary to popular belief, plus 50 does not mean 50% more light output. It means a bit longer range, and 50% more light in the useable range (varies, but it's usually 50-75m). The plus 50s are a tiny bit whiter, because they they are brighter, but they're still yellow in the scheme of things. As you have said, you know that a blue filter reduces light. Good. If you want pretty, that is, whiter, you need the filter. The solution to not having less light is to put out more light, so that after it's cut, it's still decent. This is where bulbs like narva artic blue/phillips blue vision etc fit in. For all intents and purposes, narva/osram/hella/phillips bulbs are all very good quality, and in tests, they always perform almost identically. These bulbs can be described as white. Not blueish, but just white. These bulbs utilise an overpowered filament (still 55watt, so it won't melt your housing)to output the plus 50 light which is cut back because of the filter. Quality of these bulbs is quite high, but because of the overpowered filament, life will be shorter than standard bulbs or even plus 30 bulbs. Now, to answer your question. I have tested both 55 watt and 100 watt polarg bulbs. The 100 watt polarg bulb, even after it cut back light, still put out quite bright light, because it was 100 watt. I would not run these though, because i've had to repair so many cars where 100 watt globes have destroyed things. The 55 polargs were not anything standoutish. My main reservation about the bulbs, is that bulb life wasn't any longer than the phillips/narvas. Nor was there notieably any brighter light. therefore, I can't justify the spend. Hope that helps.

ducki, pm sent. Anyone else have one in case if that one falls through, or is too expensive, pm me your offers.

knock lights up the engine check light on the r33

an ebc/bleeder will rectify your problem. the stock solenoid is a 'bleeder'. it bleeds off some air, so the wastegate doesn't open until 7 ish psi instead of 5 ish psi

Would you be interested in a gtr bov? includes everything you need to bolt it on, gaskets, hose etc. The bov is plumback, so you won't have stalling problems etc associated with an atmo bov + it is legal. Blow off noise is very loud. Much louder than the stock bov. Cheers Chris

Hey Guys Looking for a blown r33/34 turbo. My number's 0403 211 482. Cheers Chris

Is it squeeky? 32s are pretty old, and things like hinges etc are actually supposed to be greased regularly. I forgot the name of the stuff, but there's this really good grease you can get in a spray can. works wonders for things like that.

Mate, give her a whirl of nulon 'start ya bastard'. That'll start anything In answer to your quetion s1 and II pfc are the same says paulr33.

I don't like drilling carbon/fibre, because as people have said, it's brittle. But, bonnet pins for those bonnets are pretty much mandatory. I don't know how many times i've seen it where those carbon bonnets have flipped up due to flexing etc. That's why I still run the stock bonnet.

Hey Jerry I honestly believe it is possible to get a bargain sometimes, but you have to be very very careful. Often the old age addage of 'you get what you pay for' applies. Bargains can be scored occassionally, but more often then not, your chance of being scammed increases exponentially, in terms of not receiving any item at all, receiving something damaged, or receiving somethign that doesnt' work.

yeah, it just comes off. Just use manpower. seriously.

get it up a bit so you can get under it and it's easy as. Bolts might be a bit tight, but just use your manpower.

I have a freind with an r34 gtt. I drive it all the time. It feels heavier. Substnatially heavier. It feels a lot slower around corners. People always say r33s are boats compared to r32s. I feel the same about r34 gtts. In terms of powering them up, they're both capable of being powered up similarly. Power depends on your mods, and with the same mods, power is usualyl similar. An r34 gtr is a completely different story. I have also driven another friend's r33 gtr numerous times. In terms of traction in relation to power, e.g. on take offs, and when you plant it, the gtr has a lot more traction. The cornering is hard to describe. It feels less nimble because it's a lot heavier, but at the same time, it also has more traction.

shit. waste of money. I've done many threads on lighting. do a search.

normal.

drive 2km and the wheels will be dusty enough to be opaque. Just rice.

ps: do you want to pm me your phone number so I can get a location to meet you.

That location is fine matey. I just wasn't sure if it was in sydney. If it was in melbourned, that might be a bit far. lol It'd done done done!

i'll take em. where is cherybrook - is that in sydney?

easy - 1/10

turbo/turbos possible bore damage. compression test. leak down test.

totally give that a miss mate. there are many better things you could use before you would even loko at that turbo. Deosnt' matter how cheap you get it, once you fab up stuff, it'll be more expensve and make less power than other options.

your owner might have disconnectd the stock solenoid that bleeds off pressure above 4.5k rpm. without that, it'll run 4-6psi