MANWHORE

yep, not adjustible in the sense of the word.

totally agree with you there. about 522. blue point long chassis low service jack. The problem wih those shitty little 30 ones, is they don't go high enough, they have very small cups, and the thing is just so damn flimsy. If you hvae to go for a cheap one, at least go for one of those 2000-2500 kg ones for abour 150-200$. they're much stronger, have much larger cups, and are much more solid. I still don't like those 150-200 ones though, because they're shit. The motion to lower the car is just so crude. I've got one, and I hate it. When I get the money, i'm going for the bluepoint. either that, or the smaller blue point on - the 'beast' for $438

yep, transfer it over and bob's your auntie. it's easy as 123. great pumps.

these are sold. I'm picking them up.

Voltage is not what is key here. Power is what matters.

Obviuosly we're not after a sII ecu. Is the ignitor in the ecu? or is it built into the coilpack

check the torque on the screws. I've found that on my car, the screws were too loose. I tightened them up to factory spec and it hasn't leaked. The reason why I knew it wasn't the gasket, is because the leak was on the upside of the engine. Bit hard to describe, but it wasn't on the tilted lower side, was the side tilting up. Having said that, nothing lasts for ever. in an r32, since they're 5+ years old again, the gaskets may very well be gone.

what is the map data difference?

Do they last - I dunno. Turbos are pretty primative hunks of things. There is not a lot to it. Keep in mind, that the fact that these turbos are cheap does not mean they're bad. I perosnally have used one, and i'd trust the quality over a highflow. Keep in mind, these are a new turbo. They are mass produced by a machine. Whereas, a highflow is something produced by a person - there can be inconsistencies.

I'd rather have better tyres up the front. IF you're going around a corner and the front lets go in the wet, you have no steering. Having said that. If ti's that bad, either buy new tyres or don't drive. Is it worth skimping on tyres and crashing your car?

I'd rather have better tyres up the front. IF you're going around a corner and the front lets go in the wet, you have no steering. Having said that. If ti's that bad, either buy new tyres or don't drive. Is it worth skimping on tyres and crashing your car?

highflow flows a lot more than the stock turbo. Even at say 7-9 psi, it probably flows as much as the stock turbo on 11-12psi. so that's why it's hitting rich and retard.

yep, it's fine

I've taken off my cam cover on my car. Engine's got about 60 000ks on it (genuine). It's pretty clean. I've also taken the cam cover off on my subaru wagon (daily driver). about 160 000ks, hardly serviced, always ran on shit oil (when mum used to own it). It is also clean under the suprisingly. Everything is just a bit more brown. But there isn't really any 'sludge' to be seen anywhere. I'm not making any conclussions - just sharing my observation.

Hey guys what happened to the trader rating? It was very useful just before the update. Is it possible to bring it back? Cheers

PS: kinks, I wasn't saying that what you said is impossible. I was saying, it's impossible to predict the life of an engine. While I'm at it though The candle that burns twice as bright burns less than half as long - for engines that is.

Razorsharp, spot on the money mate. I do not argue like an old man or woman. In fact, I was not arguing at all. I was just merely pointing out that this thread is fairly useless. As others have said how long is a piece of string. Yeah, sure. Of course an engine that is pushed more would put out more power. Hell, even driving plays an important factor in the life of an engine. If you drive one hard, it might last half as long as one driven easy. What i'm trying to say is that there are many factors that can determine the life of an engine. Nothing lasts forever. But if you tune it safely, mod it sensibly, drive it sensible, service it well, it'll last long ENOUGH!

You're very wrong. there is nothing illegal about a pod. It is just an intake modification. What you have done, is modified the intake. Still defectable

Stock engine mounts are OK if you know what i'm saying. As in, they hold your engine there. They are rubber bushed, so they transmit less noise vibration harshness. That is, they're the all around compromise. The most important thing to look at is the condition of the engine mounts. Most of them being 10+ years old, the rubber starts looking worse for wear. Nismo engine mounts aren't that expensive when you think about it. A few hundred - when you think about it, you've spent a lot more. Nismo engine mounts are still rubber insulated. They're more solid. They have a harder rubber, so they stop more engine movement. They transmit a little bit more nvh, but probably not too much. I'd do the engine mounts if I had the motor out. check out the nismo box mount too. I wouldn't change to a solid alloy mount (unless if it's only a track car or something), becauase those are harsh as a bitch. If you're drifting a lot, you'll probably need solid alloy ones, or at least new nismo ones, because the old ones will get torn up like a bitch.

There are child restraints on the back shelf. Fittiing is the same as any car. I remember this time when I had to drive someone and they wanted to fit a baby seat in my car. hahaha. yeah right.

This is more related to safety of dry ice, but to anyone thinking about making a dry ice bomb, don't do it. there's a good chance you'll hurt yourself pretty bad.

I have never heard about such 'martini' branded product. Wouldn't trust that shit if it's not well known. I have personally played golf with the owner of nulon numerous times and chat with him regularly. I beleive their products are top quality. They have done tests using their nulon oil additive in the car, then driving it WITHOUT any oil at all in the sump interstate. If that isn't proof, then I don't know what is. nulon make an engine oil flush. that is the one i've used - refer to my experience in post #2.

This is impossible. A boosted one might die before a standard one, or the standard one could also die first. E.g. If you don't change the timing belt on the standard one and it snaps, there goes your motor. Or, if you grab the standard one, and sit on the rev limtier doing a burnout for 30 minutes, you'll probably kill it.

For those of you who want to get a highflow rb25 turbo but you'd prefer to have your car off the road for the shortest time possible, I'm able to help you. I just so happen to have a spare rb25 turbo that you can highflow and give me yours later. I've currently helped an sau member out this way, and it'll be back in about 2 weeks. Since i'm not using the turbo, i'm happy for it to keep rotating around like this for a while.

factory. remapped. ^^agreed with gtstcoupe