MANWHORE

PS: if you have a look at the construction of the fuel filter, they're very strong and solid. Imo as strong as the fuel line. something else would pop by the time the filter does.

no. Definitely not. More fuel does not equal more power in a linear relationship. A 500 kw car does not use 2 x the fuel as a 250 rwkw car. It uses a shitload more. By oging up 10% duty cycle, you might go up <5% power? (just an example)

tomei is about 370 from memory - go to nengun

for future reference: stock ecu: Remapped ecu. see the difference?

I'm not talking about peak timing mate. I'm talking about timing in the last colum when it hits r + r

How do you know boost is escaping? honestly, it could be coming from anywhere IF it is a boost leak.

There is no consensus. Everyone has their own suggestions and ideas. Just like how you thought the gtst limit is 280 rwkw. Some say it's more like 250-260. Others have put it to over 350 rwkw. I don't see why a set of highflow turbos wouldn't make it over 300 rwkw. Gtrgeoff has a slide set, and put out over 310 rwkw on only 14 psi. on 18-19 psi, there's a lot more puff to go yet

More stuff added Stealth, pm replied

definitely give the aac valve a check. You'll be suprised. It's most likely packed with carbon and crap. A simply clean out with carby cleaner will make it feel like it's brand new. That'd be my first point of call. After that, i'd check other things like afm etc.

strut brace sold.

I've soldered heaps to the loom. It's just little tricks that you pick up when you solder heaps of stuff. Dad's an electrical engineer and we solder a lot. There's no problem soldering inside for the consult port, because it has a plug and you can unplug stuff, but for other stuff, if you solder inside, you can't remove the ecu anymore.

yep, you will if you install it like how everyone else does. The bosch 040 doesn't have a pickup at the bottom. Have fun experiencing 3/4 tank syndrome, fuel surge and having a pump that will die in no time at all

crank angle sensor - adjust ignition timing with this

The gtr pump can be used. I was just saying, it isn't a 2 second bolt in job. You will have to do a tiny bit of work, but it's not hard. I also do not like the bosch pumps. The bosch's don't have a pickup, so you can't use the fuel in the bottom of the tank. also, this means that you're more likely to fuel surge. Also, without the pickup, there is no filter, so you suck all the shit through the pump, into your fuel system etc. My friends cars have had nothing but problems with the bosch pumps. Went to gtr pumps with no problems at all.

Are you SURE that your tuner has the stock maps? Use consult and download the maps, and post up an image of the fuel and ignition map. If the ignition timing drops off to about 8-9 degrees at the end colum for where the ecu hits rich and retard, it's the stock map most likely

that's stock as a rock. You see how it's got the two big chips on the left? The upper one is the cpu with maps inside. If it's remapped, it'll hvae a chip socket.

haha, gt30s are fun. Far from a straight bolt on though. do you have mates that can fab? Otherwise it becomes very costly, and one of the bolt on kits could be more cost effective

scraping noise is very very odd. All the actuator does, is open and close the flap. When the actuator isn't 'actuating' the flap is closed tight. There isn't any sideways movement possible really. It's physically impossible for it to touch your turbo wheel. When it's open, it's not anywhere near the turbo wheel. Have a look inside the dump, like take it off, and see if the wheel is contacting the housing. The turbo might actually have become worn?

I checked both actuators compared to each other next to each other. They were identical in physical dimensions (otherwise I wouldn't have been able to use it). If you're running a boost controller, you'll have to retune the gain etc. Because it was tuned for the 32 actuator. If you try just running the actuator to vac without any boost controller, it'll be the same boost build. I've had many 32 actuators before, and they always boost the same as the r33 ones

Check one more thing for me. I have found this to be the cause a lot of the time. If you haven't already, i'm sure you know, but rcas on different side to power wire. You should know that already. One that is always overlooked is the headunit ground. The loom doesn't actually have a ground in it, so it's normally grounded onto the headunit bracket. Check that it's a good ground.

just cut it. the reason is, your old wire might be really corroded etc. You need to reveal some new wire to get a good connection

nope

I've done numerous threads on this, because my dad and I are involved in research in this area. It is my dad's area of expertise. I keep repeating (not your fault). SAU will have to make like a lighting section or faq about lighting, and hid kits etc, I'm happy to do it and mod it.

PS: I have good tyres and I have heaps of traction in the wet

combination of shit tyres and accelerating too fast. I try not to hit any boost at all in the wet. to hit 5psi at 2000 rpm, that's pretty much wot!