MANWHORE

yeah, there's no easy way out. You need tiny hands. Try and undo the clamp anyway you can. Either a long screw driver if you can, or needle nose pliers. I cut an 8 mm spanner in half and got my hand in (I lubed it up with soap and got it in - yes i was scared i'd never get it back out) once you get the clamp undone enough, you can get the line out, by pulling the line itself from outside If you're installing the hks turbo and replacing the line with a braided one, I have no idea how on earth you'll get the new line in.

When you take the manifold off, you'll probably break studs. Also, the manifold probably won't go back on, because the cast ones usually warp with the heat

Are you going for a slide turbo?

if you're going for 280 rwkw, a highflow won't do it. in which case, it'll need to be something else. If it's a kit, you're alright. if it's not a kit, you'll need fab work, so you can't do it yoursledf

it's just an individual throttle body. like what's on the gtr. Instead of having miles of piping, and afms and air filters and other crap, they just go striaght to the atmosphere. Good throttle response

honstly, if it's your only car, I wouldn't do it myself. The thing is, with these performance cars, if you like to mod them, it's guaranteed that you'll need to hae it off the road. e.g. you might break bolts, or break something, and it'll take you time to go buy stuff etc. My car's been off the road for 6 weeks waiting for different stuff. I wouldn't advise you to do it all in a day either. I'd spend one day taking it out then the next putting it back in. Also, how mechanically able are you? Do you get pissed off easily? do you have the right tools? If you want, i can tell you a plcae that'll do it for about $350 including coolant and oil

oh yeah, also, replace the washers mate, they're like a few cents each! don't skimp there. All the washers you need will be <$5 If you get stuck, feel free to call the MANWHORE sex line.

I'll add, you need a 24mm spanner and socket for the water lines. Oil banjos is 17mm spanner/socket. Drain absolutely as muhc of the water as you can. I got 4.5L out of the radiator, and another 5L came out of the turbo water line. Try and undo the bolt slowly, and catch most of the water, otherwise you'll be lying in a pool of coolant. While it does taste nice, I don't advice drinking it.

There is a special tool called a stud remover. They're not expensive. But, two nuts also work. You screw two nuts on and tighten them against each other, then turn one to remove the stud. You can try the two nuts, but be very careful I cannot stress enough. Be careful, be careful be careful. Don't put too much force if it feels like it's not coming out. Do not break it. If you break it, you'll feel like hitting your head on the wall, and you probably will.

Buy 5 I always fill 4l, inspect it, fill again until it's almost right. I start it, let it settle for a bit, have a drink, eat some food, check it agian

I too would like to know, and also how much? I'd prefer not to go nissan if someone else makes it

I've got some for sale in the for sale section. IT's good shit http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=80672&hl=

Oh ok, I'm not sure mate, I was hoping that you knew, so I was asking you since I knew you were running a single gtr bov From what i was told, 1 gtr turbo = smaller than gtst turbo. 1 gtr bov smaller than gtst bov. I'd like to know whether it's true that the gtr bovs are better, or if it's really myth

what do you want to know about the mityvac? It is basically a vacuum pump, like what you use on a penis pump... squeeze squeeze, squeeze. It has a guage on it and you can either use it to vacuum, or blow. I find them really good for doing things like testing actuators, like bovs, wastegate actuators. I also use it to bleed brakes. Has a cup, whcih you hook the line onto the nipple, and pump (no joke intendeD). I'm guessing that what cef did, is pumped the mityvac up to 14psi, and set it so that the bov is triggered at this pressure.

if the a-lsd light comes on it means it's not working properly - of course you knew that though, thus the no burnouts. lol. Mine works properly though, like I was telling mat. Am I the only one with a working alsd? I'm just looking to get mine to be better. I want it to lock more, etc.

I really don't understand why people think one gtr bov is better than an r33 gtst bov. Comparing my r32 gtst bov to the r33 one, it seems that the r33 setup flows more, because it seems to release pressure quicker, whereas the r32 unit has a longer psscht. But the gtr unit seems to be the same size as the r33 bov? do they actually flow more? I have no doubt that the pair of them would flow more, but keep in mind, a gtr has two turbos, which are smaller than the r33 gtst turbo. I assumed that the gtr bov flows less, since it's deisgned to release pressure from a smaller turbo?

i agree with waz ^^

yeah, I was in the same situation too. It took me 2 hours to get home, and I didn't even leave sydney. I couldn't believe that all the traffic was just because people were just driving to have a look at the boat. It's a boat for heavens sake. Looks the same in pictures as it does in real life. It's not like they actually get to go onto it. Not to mention I heard on the news about some bloody geezer from the US who is here, and there's all this security etc, and road closures. Chopper says 'harden the f**k up'

36 is cheap if it's genuine. Just jap sell the turbo to man gaskets for like $40-45 or something from memory. second handis cheap, but I wouldn't do it.

wogs, it's all to do with the quality of the gasket material. I'll give you an example. With aftermarket gaskets, say like the dump gasket, they're usually two pieces of thin foil with goo sandwitched between. Those are pretty crap, and don't last that long. The crap in the middle can get blown out and it leaks. The genuine nissan dump gasket/turbo to manifold gasket is a solid metal gasket. I think it's copper. It's really hard work to do all the gaskets/studs. As 31nismoid said, it'll be 6-800 if you get a workshop to do it, and the same amont of work if you do it yourself. That's why I always use genuine gaskets, coz I don't want to have to do it again. Think of it this way, your nissan gaskets have lasted 10 year. If you do it now, it'll last another 10. That's not much in the scheme of things. If you use goo gaskets, they might blow in 2 years. If the gasket material of the aftermarket gasket is good, then that's cool. use it. but check it. don't get it just coz it's chepaer

also, there's a big difference between 70 and 120. At the end of the day it's just a few bits of metal weldled together, so cheaper = better

hahaha, good old improvised tools. GF walks into the workshop. what is this bent stick here? want me to chuck it out for you? Leave it, that's a tool!

you have to use an LSD oil. any lsd oil is fine. I personally prefer the mineral oils, because they're less slippery. if you want it less clunky and chattery, use something more slippery like a synthetic with friction modifier, like the redline additive. kaaz oringinal oil is mineral from memory. forgot to say, I use motul pa90

yeah, that's the one. Thanks ray and anna. you wouldn't believe it, but I have NEVER seen one of those brackets where there hasn't been a bit of bolt stuck in them!!!! Those bolts are so rubbish. They're alright around the place, but when you put it next to the manifold, it's just asking for trouble.

depends on how well the jack works. Good jacks are hard to come by. I have bought two jacks recently and they're shithouse. they're not those little jacks, they're big 2500 kg trolley jacks. For your jack, if it's just taking a while and lowering after time etc, it's probably just the seals. That plus an oil change (yes, you're supposed to change the oil in them) may fix it. Give some of the blokes a call. you might honestly be suprised at the price. I'm now stuck in a pickle. For the amount i've spent on the two jacks, I could've bought a snap on jack.