MANWHORE

Yes you do. If you like, i've got some rb25 turbos. Do you have an rb25 turbo on your car atm? If you use mine, then that means that you'll have money left over if you sell yours - help offset the cost of the highflow (e.g. sell for 400-150 = 250 left over). Going by this calculation, the total cost of your highflow project will be $850 Or if you don't have an rb25 turbo, you'll need to get one anyways

Have you seen the precision turbos group buy? 1100 - that's a pretty damn good price for a great turbo. Anything cheaper that you see is probably not worth your money. You'll most likely have to pull it out again, and then buy a proper turbo to do it right the second time - that'll piss you off big time.

paypal is fairly safe. I've bought and been scammed before. Paypal got my money back numerous times (minus their 30-40 fee - not bad at all)

There is no need to go for a 13b turbo with the price of rb20/25 turbos. They offer no benefits, are not straight bolt on. Neither are the highflows. You can get rb25 highflows for the same price as those 13b highflows. As with all highflows, price dictates quality (generally). highflow is a word that is too easily thrown around. There can be as much variance from totally shit ---> best turbo in the world

So can I. You read it just like any other rom, except the data is scrambled (ther'es a formula) Blitz access are great ecus (to those who know what map they use). Most of the time, they are still really safe. Have more timing (stock ecu really drops timing when boost is increased), better afr (stock ecu really goes way too rich when boost is increased), and the scope that the ecu recognises is increased (for more boost). So generally, they are quite good. Unfortunately, I am very busy atm, so there is not a lot I can do for you (might be able towards the christmas holidays, but don't hold your breath)

Ben, did you notice any differenec when still running the standard springs with new shocks? I've always only upgraded springs and shocks at the same time. Wondering what the actual real life difference is if the shocks are not totally stuffed - whetehr you can actually notice anything.

its normal, they always have surface rust - metal is not stainless steel or alloy

trade in value will be an absolute lowball offer. e.g. I have a ford falcon AU sII 70 000ks which my parents are trading in atm. I can't be bothered to sell it for them and they're lazy. Toyota offered 4k max, which is a downright shit offer if you ask me. Quite a bit lower than market value. e.g. look at what you can get for 4k on carsales - an old vl/vn fangadore or el/ef falcon

Have any of you guys with slotted rotors actually noticed any difference when swapping from standard to slotted? better feel? what difference?

Yeah, definitely. I haven't researched the difference between dimpled and drilled. Is it the same thing? or is the rotor casted with the dimples?

Idon't see why anyone should have to pay $40 for a simple bleeding orifice. you can make one yourself with a $3 brass t piece from the auto store, drill the hole out to the size you want and use that to adjust boost. In the past, i've also used plastic irigation taps from bunnings for $2.

there are so many different types of t3 highflow. It can range from being completely bolt on perfectly, down to the last bolt, ranging to nothing bolting on apart from the t3 exhaust manifold flange. E.g. you might have to get new inlet pipes on both sides, new oil lines, new water lines, new oil banjos, new water banjos, new dump, if its not internally gated - need a gate and manifold too etc etc..... So many variables - we need more info

I have a little collection of various extensions, and swivel joints. Usually does the job for hard to get at stuff like that one

I'll explain based on the ball bearing model. Like i said above, as they use a garett catridge, the bajo bolts are different sizes. John supplies new banjos for the water and the oil. The new oil banjo works with the stock oil lines. The new water banjos use a different size water line end. John supplies this. For those people getting the turbo installed by a workshop, this will be no difficulty for them. For those people isntalling it themselves, there are a few different ways to do this. Get the new banjo end tig welded onto the stock lines to replace the stock sized end. This is perfect - will look like stock, be as strong as stock. Most places will charge about $20-30 for this because its only 2 welds. Alternatively, you can take your lines off, and take them down to pirterk and get some braided lines made up - costs about $80 each. I prefer to just get them tigged

Then again, on the street, any gain from having drilled rotors is probably negligible. I've found that drilled rotors usually crack. e.g. if you have a look at the standard 32 gtr drilled rotors, they're usually cracked

No such thing as foot too small unless if your foot is like 5cm long or something. I've got size 13 feet, and they're too big. I can't 'heal toe' properly in the skyline. I more so press both pedals with different edges of my foot. Smaller feet make it easier. E.g. I can heal toe in a fangadore easily because its bigger

jeez, I can't believe how much random comments have been given. When starting, tick tick tick means the starter motor is clutching/not starting the car. Just because the b82rz is new doesn't mean that it is charged fully. Make sure its charged, and she shoudl start. The alarm may be on too, but the tick tick means starter Where abouts are you?

fto australia had a dyno day recently - 25 for 3 runs. If the prices are around there, i'm in.

They don't necessarily get 'trapped' in the intercooler as such. When the comp wheel impacts with the intercooler'piping wall, it normally releases some small shards/specs of metal. Give your intercooler piping a rub. It'll be oily - check to see if there is any specs - if so, it means that they've most likely been ingested too. As for the exhaust wheel - straight out the back.

Going for a single isn't going to decrease the upgrade cost. Once you factor in the cost of exhaust fabrication and intake fabrication, new oil/water lines etc, going to a single will cost you more. The price for twin kits e.g. 2530 are very reasonable. As they are basically straight bolt on, there is almost no customisation/fabrication cost Also, I feel that there is no need to move to a big single. Larger twins are perfectly capable of putting out big power. e.g. the twin 2530 will put out shitloads of power. It was enough for paul and stace to do 10s with it. Twin gtrs will make more power again.

bit hard to read there, but as it is a gtr with a twin setup, for the low power goal of 500bhp, I would stay away from going for a single. Pretty much anything will make what you're after. Twin 2530, maybe even twin 2510, n1, gtss....

that depends matey. The is it the 300zx twin turbo? or single turbo. The twin turbo one is no good. Only the single turbo one - also known as the vg30det turbo - not the dett

Monkeyboy, if these are like the precision turbos ball bearing ones (should be the same - theyr'e both garett catridges), then john supplies you everythign you need - washers, new banjos, banjo ends, gasket for turbo, oil drain gasket - everythign you need.

It's an rb25 turbo. 45v1,2,3,4 are different revisions of the turbo. doesn't mean shit - they're almost identical. It says 45v3 - its a v

actuator number doesn't mean anything. nissan didn't change thier numbers