MANWHORE

haha, I'm only kidding matey, not meaning anything bad. For my first turbo swap, I dropped coolant all over the floor, because I didn't think i'd have to empty the radiator first

No need to even wire it. If you disconnect the actuator arm, once any exhaust comes out, the flap will open. I never bother wiring it. then again, I never need to do it because I TEST WASTEGATE FLAP CLEARANCE BEFORE I FIT THE ACTUATOR ON

got one - I can supply you with the two bolts too. Are you in sydney? If not, I can post it to you via EXPRESS Post. My one is in perfect condition - not all old and shitty and dirty etc. Its very clean and looks almost new. number's 0403 211 482. I was thinking $60

They are very good. Easy to install. I suppose how hard it is to build depends on how good you are with electronics. For me, it was a piece of cake. Tuning does take a little while - you hvae to set solenoid duty v injector percentage. BUT the end result is the best possible boost curve possibly acheiveable because the boost controller blocks the boost signal to the actuator rather than just bleeding (with bleeding, some always goes through)

it's not the culprit. Like I said, I have 120 cm of vac line between my actuator and the boost source. Runs 11 psi day in day out

Nah, that won't cause it. As usual, mine is t'd onto the intercooler piping on the r33. I'm just doing testing atm without a boost controller, so I didn't want to cut the new vac hose that I bought. I'm running 1 whole metre at the moment, and it still runs 11psi

15 psi is way too much on the 32 actuator. Something is wrong. I'm running a 32 actuator on my highflow on my rb25, and it hits 11 psi day in day out

Was the cas brand new? Unfortunately, there are some dodgy people otu there. If someone was selling the cas, it could be because they suspected that it wasn't working Are you runnign the cam gear cover?

jeez, 1.32? No boost until end of 2nd gear, beginning of 3rd gear or something?

Most politicians are not open to logic and reasoning. Most of the general bogans out there think oh yeah, highpowered cars are dangerous. e.g. I drive down the street at 60ks an hour, and I get some random uneducated hillbilly gesturing to me to slow down... The only way the government keeps these people happy is to satisfy their (limited) beliefs

no need. Battery shouldn't go flat after only 1.5 weeks. If it does, your battery is dead and you need a new one anyways. I've left mine for 3 months (not good I know) and it was fine

The afm mesh deosnt' cause much restriction at all. If you think about it - its a really thin mesh. Much more significant gains can be had else where e.g. your rippled air filter - turbo intake pipe. Each of the pipes as it leads onto a silicon join - there's an edge there. I have listed just two things which would cause more restriction than the simple mesh. Leave the mesh alone

The rb26 oil filter is just like all those other rb components - ok if you have small to medium sized hands. Unlike a holden or ford fangadore - which haev miles of space, these skylines are tight. Just make sure that car is cold - its impossible if you've just driven it because you'll keep burning yourself. Keep trying. you'll get more courage, and you'll stick your hand further and further in. Eventually, you'll work out a good way of how to get it.

ca18? you can almost get an rb20 for that price edit: oops, didn't read your post

Thanks a lot for the offer Chris. I'd really appreciate if I could borrow it. I only need it literally just for a couple hours tomorrow. I won't scratch it or anything. What would be the best way to get it off ya? Horny heights is just aroudn the corner from me.

The best advice I have ever been given is if ACA or TT ever approach me to do a story on ANYHTHING, tell them to f off. When they record, they take a lot of footage. You think that they're going to portray what you want, but htey'll always turn it around because of ratings. They do what sells. Bogans and old people want to hear about illegal street racing. Imagine if ACA or TT did a story - good honest people do legal drag racing at WSID. no one would watch it.

Hey guys Can someone please lend me a manual boost controller - preferably the turbotech ball and spring type? My car's getting tuned tomorrow, and I need some method of icnreasing boost. I have a jaycar boost controller which is good once you set it, but setting it takes about 1 hour each time - not something I can do on the fly when the tuner needs more boost. I'm located on the North shore - st ives (as close as possible is preferable). Thanks guys Chris (0403 211 482)

That's a bit different. That's a transmission adapter for the trolley jack. They are a bloody great idea. He's talking about just the cups though. e.g. why would you need a big cup, small cup etc.

Bass, extrude honing is one thing. I think of it more like a final get the last little bit extra. Port matching is the main thing you'd want to be looking at. Port matching woujld me measuring up the turbo and how it mates with the manifold, how the turbo mates with the dump, how the dump mates with the front pipe etc etc you get the idea. Then, you take to it with a die grinder to match the ports. While you're at it, you can also clean out any casting dags/uneven surfaces that you can reach with the grinder. This has huge gains compared with the extrusion honing. I'd the the extrusion honing after I do the port matching. Extrude honing will take care of that tiny bit extra that your'e lookign for after

Tyos, just sell me your screen. If I manage to get it working (dad's an electrical engineer and has installed many audio systems), then its no loss to you, you can go buy another one. I just can't be bothered buying off ebay myself.

I do'nt have a welder, so I've never been able to weld it myself unfortunately. The guy that I used to get to do the weldign for me said that he had a 'good' welder which doesn't damage the ecu etc. I was like just to be safe i'll disconnect the ecu and battery, so yeah, I do. If the nut is too thick, definitely have a go with the washer first. Using the washer trick, its even possible to get out studs that are flush with the block/manifold. Get a washer that's slightly smaller than the stud's outer size. Don't worry too much about weld sticking to the manifold, because it'll be cold remember, so unless if you go crazy with the welder, you shoudl be right. When you said it snapped, did you try winding it back in first? (did you get any turn out of it the first time? or was it totally locked it)

Through port matching, and general cleanup of the housings/manifolds/exhaust (manually), I've noticed more power and response. The results have been visible on the dyno. Yes, I hear you say dyno test was done on different days, but after doing a number of tests, you get a idea of the general range the results are. After the grinding, the results were a fair bit higher. With a stock car, doing this mgiht not yield much results. But when you hvae a car pumping out 22-24 psi on a gcg highflow, you can imagine it making a fair whack of difference.

best bet would be to pick up one of my turbo housings and get that highflowed. that way, you're guaranteed that the turbo won't shit itself. You'll get a new one then.

Mate, honestly, you should have bought my jack that I had for sale. It was almost brand new. What is this bs about jacks coming with different cups - that's bs.Why would you need different cups? a jack with a low cup can't jack up a car with lots of clearance but can jack up a low car? When you buy a jack, don't think too much about the rating. Generally, you have those small jacks - around $50. small weak, can't get high enough to put stands under, flimsy, feel like they will drop the car. Big style - big strong jack, sturdy, can jack up to about 1/2 m high. I wouldn't touch the supershit one - you're trusting your life on it. Check out standards australia - supershit are always recalling stuff. They've recalled about 3 of the past jacks that they've sold. I wonder why....

When I have time, i always use a die grinder and smooth out the flow path inside thte housings. The exhaust housining is the main one that needs it. You'll notice all these random casting dags inside and obstructions everywhere. You can go as far as port matching everything - manifolds etc. Using extrusion honing takes it to the next level, but I have noticed really good gains doing it by hand with a die grinder.