MANWHORE

good idea

The r33 chip contains the map inside it. Essentially, you need to buy a h8 processor. r33 chips are one right only. therefore, you have to buy a eprom writer which can do h8, and you need to buy a h8 - they're about $70 each Eseentially, tuning is not really a diy thing

rom is downloadeable via consult cable with the ecu in your car. no need to take the chip out.

Nissan for the studs and nuts. I don't like easyouts, because i've never had a good experience with them. In some cases, e.g. with block-manifold studs, the studs might have snapped because they were stretched. Since they're not really locked in, easyouts work. As easyouts are hardened steel, they are theoretically stronger than a similarly thick stud, however, they're ultra brittle. Granted, i'm no expert in using easyouts, but i've snapped so many of them i'm scared to use them. Welding trick always works for me. If the weld snaps off, I just keep doing it until it comes out - the heat from welding helps too.

My favourite spot is to have it on the side. There is room on r32s and r33s to run the lines underneath the headlight and put it on the right hand side. I prefer this, because it has its own dedicated airflow. Also, its neater, because you don't have to run the oil lines either over or under the radiator (messy)

Which nut is it? You should be right. Better than paying some thread guy to come out and do the same thing edit: stud, not nut

no need to grind the nut down - its better with the whole nut so that your socket/spanner can grip it - if you only have half a nut, it'll slip off

Definitely welding is the best option. I've got heaps of broken studs out by welding, even if they are snapped flush with the block. Once you've filled it with weld, make sure that you have heaps of penetrating oil handy. Wind the nut backwards and forwards, backwards and forwards. The nut might come off. Weld it on again. Eventually, you should get it off. It helps to heat the manifold a LITTLE if you can. Bunnings sell a butane torch - blue one for $20 including gas. Some people like to use easyouts, but I don't like them because they're brittle. The way how I think about it, if a big thick stud will snap, what chance does a thin easyout have. I didn't know you had a mig .... Might give you a buzz next time I need something welded

I have never had a problem with the standard wastegate actuator hole on the rb25/vg30 turbos. When combined with a decent dump pipe (not like the stadnard one), I've never had problems, even flowing right up to approximately 22-24 psi. If you're worried about the hole size, it is a very easy modification to enlarge the wastegate hole using a die grinder. Use a hole saw to cut a new wastegate flap which is of the correct size, tack weld the new flap onto the existing flap. Any mechanic should be able to do that for only a few dollars.

Most likely, when you try and pull the exhaust housing off the vg30 turbo, it will be severely seized on. I.e. unless if you have an oxy torch and a hydraulic puller. There's a reasoanble chance that when you pull the housing off you might crack the wheel. Semi tuned - road tuned. Just gotta stick it onto the dyno to check power. I'm not happy with this one. I'm most likely going for a gcg vg30 or a precision turbos one.

The reason why they say that the STOCK vg30 is a pos is because it is basically an rb20 turbo internal put inside an op6 exhaust housing/45v comp housing (of course this differs between the many different versions of vg30s - at one stage, I had 4 different models of vg30 in the workshop).

When you say feelign a bit doughy, do you mean it feels a bit unresponsive? Basically, the best way to describe what happens with a bigger turbo, is if you're only running around 10-12 psi, it'll feel pretty unresponsive, and it'll feel like it makes less power than stock. Take my turbo as an example - takes a bit of time to get up to 10 psi, but once it gets up to 10, 18 psi comes very quickly. Shoot Al a pm. Initially, he had a vg30 highflow. Switched it for a gtrs. From my experience, the gtrs make a bit more power than a standard r33 highflow. More like a vg30. Bullant47 did a write up about his experience with changing housing on a GCG highflow. I've noticed similar. maybe about 150-200 rpm later, with loads more power. Chuck on a cam gear - should help a fair bit. Have you had it tuned yet? a tune helps a fair bit. more timing will help spool.

I think I might have been a bit unclear. I was a bit tired from work. What I was saying, is that with a vg30 housing, you get a 0.8A/R housing, which is bigger than the AVO's 0.7A/R. I was saying that the 0.8 is perfect - I feel that if i'm going to do a turbo upgrade, it had better been a worthwhile one. But on the other hand, you don't want to go too big either e.g. 1.0A/r otherwise, our 2.5L engines will have trouble spooling it (more suited to an rb30/13b/20b). 0.8 is not too big and not too small. Also, price was another issue that I spoke about. The AVO one is 700 rrp.... whereas if you pick up a vg30 one, your turbo highflower will sandblast it anyway as part of the price, and it will come up looking brand new for half the price.

Unless if you're getting the avo housing for a very very good price, and unless if it will allow you to maintain the straight bolt on factor of a vg30 housing, i'd give it a miss. The vg30 housings are a lot bigger (0.8AR as opposed to the standard 0.6ar). Unless if you're running a 13b/20b rotory/rb30 or something, I wouldn't really want to go bigger than a 0.8 on an rb25.

well, tyos, if you don't like it and wanna sell it off cheap, I might be interested

rb20s just don't really have much spooling power to start off with. I would say that you were fairly close to the mark with your stock rb20 turbo. Naturally, since the rb25 one makes mroe power, it will spool later. Apart from the usual - freeing the intake - filter, fmic, freeing up the exhaust - highflow cat, dump/front/catback, there is not a lot you can do

I think the probelm there is because they're designed for specific cars, most likely, some brackets etc will still need to be made up so that the car deosn't have to be drilled. Do you have an r33 by anychance and are keen in workingn out a set?

Ceff - there is no need to go to a place like gcg. Last time I asked them, they were looking for around 300 labour. I'd rather put that money towards the cost of the housing instead. Any machine shop with a lathe would be able to machine it out really easily to whatever spec you want. That is, either the same, less or more clearance - whatever you like. Ben - vg30 housing is better in regards to wheelspin. One of my friends with a vg housing said that the car was a lot more driveable - more useable power with the vg. Instead of you having to watch your right foot, because the power is up a few rpm higher, less wheelspin.

ps: I'd imagine that our pipes don't have a brand on it? I'm going for extra stealth, that's why I chose black!

bass, great job with the group buy in getting in first. But you might be able to save yourself some time now - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=179069

Mate, that's not a little buckle! I would have noticed that within all of about 2 minutes. Of course it affects vibration, handling, blah blah.

Draining time has nothing to do with oil filter oil. The filter has oil in it. After you do it a few times, you'll learn to anticipate where the oil comes from etc. I normally do the oil/filter without dropping a single drop on the floor. Put some cardboard down for safety anyways.

Not only with the vl boganadores. The japs used to use extra injector controllers. I've seen numerous cars with an injector or two in the intake piping. It's not such a big thing nowadays. With the price of injectors, the hassle isn't worth it for me - looks dodgy. Back in the days, there wasn't such a large range of a/m injectors

don't think he's interested, I pmed him before, but no reply

Gps input - I'm very interested in that. Can you please elaborate on this further? e.g. is there a special plug that you use to connect the gps to it? do all gps have that plug? what does the plug look like? do you get touchscreen control of the gps too? Cheers Chris