ZiAzon

Hey guys, I recently purchased a Bosch 040 Fuel Pump, turned out, it wasn't the pump I need and I went with a Walbro instead. It's brand new and still in the box with the plastic. It's never been fitted too! I'm asking $200.00 for it.

Nah, I've kept with stock. Had to replace the Series II front bar with a Series I as I had a crash. But once all my engine and suspension upgrades are completed, I'll be purchasing the East Bear kit and doing a full respray.

If you want a really nice half kit and don't mind spending the money, purchase an East Bear Front Bar, Bonnet, Rear Wing and Badges. It'll cost you a pretty penny and you will have to purchase it through the East Bear jap site. I think for the R33 GTST 4 Dr Series 2 Front Bar, Rear Wing and Badges cost just over $2,400 unpainted and not including shipping. The fitment and quality is basically perfect. EDIT: If you don't read japanese, use translate (google). You can just make out what the options are for the configurators. For example, the Front bar has options such as Painted (Factory Codes) or Unpainted, Series 1 or Series 2, Vents included or not (I assume these are the back plates for the indicators) and Crystal Indicators included or not. The Rear Wing has a variation of painting options as well as an option to have the center piece in Carbon Fibre. With the Badges, you have 2 models of Badges, the model 1 is the best looking in my opinion. As far as the Bonnet goes, it is the same as the Front Bar but you have options for Vent Covers instead. EDIT 2: The other option is to purchase through Nengun (Custom enquiry as the online store doesn't show all the products.). C-Red in Australia used to supply them however they do not anymore.

Regarding the mirrors, if you need to replace the mirrors on your sedan, make sure you keep the base plate (the part that bolts to the door). The rest of the mirror is interchangeable. So when replacing, you will need to unscrew everything and butcher the wiring to remove and replace the base plate. Use crimp connectors unless you dodgy like me and you individually twist/wrap and bind the wiring.

To be honest, you don't have much choice. You either go custom or you go with the "GTR Style" pods from Carmate. I haven't used Carmate before so I cannot comment on quality however, from past discussions, they aren't the best quality as fitment can be an issue.

Found the problem, when the mechanic went to change the condenser out for me whilst I was at work, he forgot to plug in one of the vac lines and because it was black on black, it was almost invisible -_- TIP FOR OTHERS: CHECK ALL FRIGGIN' VAC LINES TO SEE IF THEY'RE CONNECTED!

I've searched far and wide and have no idea what's wrong. I suspected the AFM, but that's fine, O2 Sensor's are fine as well as they have been recently changed and I just cleaned the AAC valve less than 2 months ago. I've replaced most vac hoses and there doesn't seem to be a leak... Also, the spark plugs are new, gaped at 0.8mm and the coilpacks are fine and I'm only running 7psi boost anyway. The rough idle started when I removed an aftermarket boost gauge and plugged up the vac line going to it. So what is happening is, when I start her up, she sits on her normal idle for about 10 seconds, then she starts choking, and drops down from 850 to 500 and back up to 850 and this repeats until however long it takes for her to catch. I can rev her up a little and make her catch but she will splutter again and again. Driving her seems fine, no problems what so ever, it's when she gets to slow speeds (5km/hr or under) or idling it starts to choke and splutter. I have no idea what's going on and it's really annoying me. Any help would be grateful! Thank you in advance. EDIT: Will also mention, she isn't blowing any coloured smoke, no black, no blue and no white, she is running fine. Injectors sound normal as well, and there isn't any misfires of any sort. Temperatures are fine and the stuttering and spluttering happens anytime it's at low speeds or idle, it's worse when it is cold (obviously).

@paulr33 I beg to differ about the boost levels between the r33 auto and manual. I drive a auto, and before I put a boost controller on, it was boosting to around 7psi in high boost mode. Which should be just over halfway on the stock gauge.

Yea I have realised it's running R&R, going to get an ECU before I up the boost more. It's actually running quite nicely on 9psi at the moment, no problems, not even black smoke or sluggish. But before I do anything I need to deal with a speeding fine that should be coming round anytime now... Hopefully it wont hit hard...

Maybe you should buy a holden since your mental capacity is on par with the stereotypical bogan driver. Anyway, on topic, throw up some pics as this would help a lot.

Okay sweet, this will justify splitfires

Okay guys, Just got myself a Turbosmart Boost Tee and upped the boost on a stock R33 GTST Sedan to about 10psi. It then started misfiring so I went out and got myself some NGK coppers 0.8mm put them in and then went for a run, at first I ran at 7psi, no misfires runs fine some popping of exhaust. then 8psi, no misfires runs fine and no popping of exhaust...., then 9psi no misfires runs really well no exhaust popping, and then 10 psi, misfire galore... and popping exhaust galore.... I checked the coil packs when they were out, and there seemed to be no hairline fractures I could see.... THen again I didn't them examine using a microscope but with my eyes, they seemed fine, gave them a give wipe down and sprayed out the boot area. So what seems to be the problem? anyone?

Sorry to necro this post I can't help but reply, I have a stock auto R33 GTST Sedan... Just beat a 350Z... They do have you from 0-100 but after that, wooshhh the R33 is off. This is from a rolling start though, 40km/hr, I hit 180km/hr and was half a car ahead and still gaining.

Yea it's getting cancelled, going Just Car.

I'm getting mugged right now so switching insuarance at the moment but here is my last: 1996 R33 GTS-T S2 Sedan Insurance company: SGIO Cost: $1800 Comp Full Age: 20 Driving History: No claims, Crashed once but haven't claimed or lodged report. Parent: 3 Claims, of which 2 were other parties fault. His also had a few speeding tickets. Gender: Male Mods: Stock Garaged y/n: Yes Alarm: Yes Insured amount: 5.2k Market or Agreed Value: Agreed Insured in Parents Name: Yes Excess: $1600 + $650 (under 25). I am getting ripped off big time.

Parkwood is pretty good but stay away from Lynwood.

An update: Car is at panel beaters at the moment, will be for 2 weeks or so, costing me $4000, and then another 1.5-2k for a bodykit (I opted to do this since it seemed like the best time to fit one). The guy however said to not get a bodykit from carmate saying that fitting it will be a nightmare, so where is the best place in Australia to get one? I'm looking for a full M-Sport bodykit including fenders and a Fiberglass or CF (coloured) hood.

Bro, best bet is not claiming insuarance, they will f**k you in the asshole. Trust me.

Right and rising deaths per year has nothing to do with the rise of population... Mmm mr politician please enlighten me on how your theory works.

Damn popo... Don't they have anything better to do with their time? I mean seriously. It's just a hood. It's not as if I have a stash of drugs or illegal firearms or a nuclear device stashed in my engine bay... They should go do something more productive with their time like umm tracking and arresting thieves, murderers, rapists, kidnappers and such... Not people who drive cars that look and perform boss.

From my understanding of it, HICAS can come into play at low speeds to help smooth out a turn. I've also read, that it can angle up to 10 degrees but is limited to up to 0.3 degrees for high speeds. But even if it wasn't HICAS, I never hit boost and was under 3000 revs at the time. I also checked the road and there was no oil slicks or debris that could of caused me to kick out as such. Oh well, if the important stuff isn't damaged eg. Engine, steering column, suspension... I'll get it repaired and maybe chuck on a new bodykit instead of sourcing out original parts, maybe a carbon fibre hood. If anyone knows of a good repair shop, please let me know. I want quality over price. I don't mind chipping out to fix this.

Don't actually know, it's insured for 5200 so I might just pick it up from SGIO and get it repaired myself.

Nah, I've been driving for 2 years.

10 degrees, enough to change course.

This is my first post and well, I'll be damned. I bought a Skyline R33 GTST Sedan 6 days ago... I crashed it today... Don't know what happened but I damn suspect HICAS... The only friggin time I'm not being an idiot, I crash my car. Just thought I'd share... For those who want to know what happened, I was driving along Albany Highway and got to the set of lights for the on ramp for Tonkin Highway heading towards Welshpool... It was a red light so I stopped. When it turned green, I started turning, wasn't speeding or trying to get the back end out, was only doing about 40 by the time I cleared the turn. When the car straightened up, all of a sudden te back end kicked out to the left (I was on the outside lane) and I tried to correct... Then it corrected and I was over correcting... I spun out and hit the wall... Talk about bad luck... I had just paid the rego as well. f**k my life. How's everyone? Also have know idea if insurance will repair it, the front bumper is half off, radiator is busted along with transmission cooler, lights are out of place, battery probably f**ked, fuse box may be gone, driver side fender is crumpled and the crumple zone crumple on driver fender side, driver door isn't quite in place and the read driver side fender is dented. The fan maybe be f**ked as well... Wheels seem fine and car starts up...