wilch

Some are pretty cool. I was shooting a car the other night in a Bunnings carpark. It was pretty late and I guess a couple of modified cars in a deserted car park looks really dodgey. Anyway, a general duties came and asked what we were doing, the guy was really decent and just said not to stay too long. Then a highway patrol car came in really fast. Asked us what we were doing, asked who's car was the skyline (LOL), and ended by saying, "well, don't do anything stupid, and if you hear any burnouts or loud cars, it's not me." Then when leaving he did a couple of doughnuts, and then a big burnout down the road. lol He seemed like a really good guy.

spotted primordial at UAS yesterday. That Navarra... powerplay??

will pm you dark. Just received the prints . They turned out awesome (if I don't say so myself). Excuse the jpg compression on these photo's of the prints. The detail is amazing. You can read the stickers on the wheels of the white gtst, see a couple of tiny bugs on the GTR, and see a hairline crack in the lower part of my front bar.

Here's a little write up on how to install a boost gauge into the drivers side vent of an R32. *disclaimer: If anything goes wrong or you break anything while following this post it's not my fault. Items needed: Phillips head screw driver Socket Set Spare vacuum line (the thin stuff that just fits the clear autometer tube inside it) plastic T piece that fits the above vacuum line Masking tape Step 1 IMPORTANT Open the bonnet. It's easier to now than it is later Remove the dash piece that's above the pedals and below the steering wheel. - there are 4 screws along the top side - 2 screws along the bottom side (32 gtst) - 1 screw at the side (covered by the door when it's closed) - 2 bolts that also hold in the bonnet release n.b. Unplug the beeper after you've unscrewed everything (you'll see it when you do it) Step 2 Once you've removed this piece you'll notice that the vent is attached. Unscrew the two screws holding it in and remove. Step 3 Now what you'll notice is that you've got a nice little hole where you should be able to fit your gauge. Some fit, but with the autometer boost gauge that we had there was no chance of getting it in. If this happens you need a Dremel. If you don't know what a Dremel is, maybe you should get someone that does and have them finish the install Ok, now if you check the packaging that came with your autometer gauge you should notice that it came with a circular tube of hard cardboard in which it was placed. Get this tube and use it to see how much of the hole you need to widen. Now with the autometer gauge I was lucky cause I basically just needed to shave off the clean rounded edge around the hole. There was a lot to take off regardless. It's just this edge gave me something to work towards so that I kept the hole round, and didn't go too far. Step 4 Dremel time. I used this attachment. Now here's where I wish I had taken more photos. I didn't use this attachment to cut into the hole, I used it kinda like you would sand paper. Shaving away this inside of the hole slowly. TAKE YOUR TIME. Do NOT hack away at the hole, just shave the edges down slowly, moving around the hole till it's bigger. Eventually it'll be big enough. Keep checking. Step 5 Insert the gauge. Here you can see the snug fit. It was actually so snug I couldn't get it back out again. So make sure you've lined it up properly before you push it all the way in. Step 6 How the hell do you get the vacuum feed from the engine to the gauge?? Have a look in the engine bay. The vacuum line highlighted by the red arrow is what we need to cut. It currently feeds the stock boost gauge controller (the little box on the left). Now look to the left a bit more and you'll see a hole. This is your entrance into the cars cabin. Here's the other side of that hole. ...and a bit closer. (Note I've already pushed the clear autometer tubing through the hole) Step 7 Feeding the line. - Grab an old coat hanger. - Unwind it. - Grab the clear autometer tubing. - Line up the end of the tubing with one of the ends of the coat hanger wire. - Tape around the end of the tubing and the wire tightly... make the end smooth and one piece basically. - Get in the car. - You see this rubber stuff? - Poke a hole through it, then shove the coat hanger plus tube (taped end first) in through here. - Now go and have a look in the engine bay. - You should see the coat hanger and the tube in here. - Grab it and pull it through. Now that wasn't hard was it? Few mins and your done. So many people told me this step would take forever and was a bitch... sif. Step 8 Attaching the Tpiece. Cut the vacuum line pictured. And attach the Tpiece. Then cut the clear tube to size.... All done for the engine bay. Step 9 Connecting the vacuum line to the gauge. N.b. Ensure you leave enough slack in the vacuum line to get the gauge plus dash piece out again once installed. Basically follow the instructions for you gauge at this point. With autometer gauges, be careful not to twist or bend the clear tubing when screwing the attachment onto the gauge. Step 10 Making it light up. Grab the 12v feed from your cigarette lighter. It's the easiest 12v wire that goes "hot" when the headlights are turned on to find. Wire this up as you would anything else. If you don't know how to do this, you shouldn't be installing the gauge. Step 11 Admire your work.

sif white! I'm black! uhmmm... spotted black skyline at penno station on wednesday arvo. Can't remember the plates. There. Back on topic.

what thomas said, sif able to see black chick behind black windows....

Nice shots, hope you don't mind a bit of critique 1. Clean shot, but the converging lines of the roof and the rail at the back is very distracting and detracts from the photo. 2. Same as 1. 3. The background is VERY distracting. Doesn't do anything for the photo. Nothing leads the eye to the car. Maybe shoot at a shallower DOF. 4. The car is framed nicely by the light pole and the grey thing behind in this shot. The stuff to the right is nothing but distracting. 5 and the rest... all ok photos, there's no annoying reflections on the car. But I don't like the way you've used that location. There's just too much going on behind the car. Watch out for trees growing out of the car too.. 8 has a tree growing out of the boot. I've noticed that you shot at a high fstop for all these photos. Was that done on purpose? There's no depth of field in any of the photos.

I always thought that if you raised the revs and the voltage didn't increase then your alternator is gone. ie. If you start the car and it stays at 12, and if you rev the car and it stays at 12, then the alternator isn't working at all.

Hi guys, A few people I know have asked for some posters of their cars. Here are a few of the prints I was working on last night (resized ofcourse). The prints are professional quality poster sized prints, slightly larger than A3. I'll take a photo of the prints once I've received them. But yeah, if anyone's interested in prints or a shoot just send me a PM. Cheers.

whered it happen? turning off copeland rd?

anyone know what we should be torquing them down to? give me figures ppl! I want to be exact

did you take pics mona? ffs.... YOU'VE GOT A CAMERA PHONE WOMAN!

ooh, free plug for powerplay too. They know their shit! Bonnet pin install (on a f**king expensive (normally) bonnet) went flawlessly.

Good on ya Jimbo You should have a lot more disposable cash after awhile too My g/f quit a few months ago, and it's been really hard on her. But she's doing great and is better off for it.

the white one is much nicer

Well, UAS are great in this respect. I've had work done on both my car and my g/f's car at UAS. Each time I've told them what I thought was the problem and what I wanted done, also asking if they think anything else needs to be done. They were frank, to the point and listened to exactly what I said. They even provided a solution when I thought there was none, other than ordering a high priced japanese part. They quoted the hours, and finished well within the time. Well, that's my experience with UAS so far. With the exception of telling me that a certain strut brace was in stock when it wasn't, making me waste 10mins of my time driving there during work hours... pfft.

boo-urns! Wanna swap?

hmmm... well if you're at uas get one of those nismo copy strut braces ps I agree with silv

Here I installed a Nismo-copy strut tower brace that I bought from UAS on an R33 GTS-t. rrp $165 Steps: 1. Park the car on flat ground. 2. Undo and remove the 2 nuts on the top of each strut tower. 3. Place the strut tower brace over each of the strut towers. 4. Put the nuts back on and tighten them up. 5. Align the master cylinder stopper and tighten it up. 6. Using left over bolts (if you've removed your airbox use the ones from here) screw the master cylinder stopper bracket into the holes that are provided on the side of the strut tower. 7. Remove the plastic protecting the finish. 8. Take photos Fitting: The master cylinder stopper Finished:

Prank, I thought your GTR was grey?

Don't think it's as simple as a fuse thing with 33 GTR's. You need to physically pull out the front drive shaft or something to turn 33's into 2wd's.

spotted my car this morning..

Are these still for sale? Do they come with rails to suit R33 GTST's? location?

I think this GTR has the Dspeed ones too.... ruk?

Here she is Follow the orange twisty road.