wilch

I just finished making mine today. Took most of the day to fabricate but turned out ok. Here are some pics. wil..

sweet no need to worry

oops didn't notice that he had a GTR!! LOL my bad.... /me hides ps. I don't want my GTS-T to be a GTR! wouldn't mind owning both though

I'd be damned if my r33 bonnet is alluminium. It's so heavy compared to any other bonnet on any other car I've owned!! wil..

yep... they can *measure* speed in both directions. Doesn't say anything about being able to take your photo from front on. I'm not trying to be argumentative. There are privacy laws in place, also safety issues with "FLASHING" a driver from front on. wil..

There is nothing on that page that says they can take your photo from front on.

In NSW they cannot take your picture from front on with speed camera's. It breaches privacy laws or something. wil..

Mine tends to do the same. After warming up at idle it'll sit just below that 1st line on the gauge, and under load it'll be up around 4 or above. Mine's an r33 series 2. I'm curious to know what the norm is too. wil..

what happens if you get it stuck half way around a corner?

isn't 7 on the gauge on the dash supposed to be close to 1.0bar = 14psi?!?!?!! That's very bad for the stock turbo.

Basic rule of thumb is that a garage can give you a pink slip for anything, but Police can still defect you for whatever was passed by that garage (eg. dark tint). Some places are stricter than others. One thing is for sure, they do NOT test for emissions, or sound. So exhaust and pod are fine. Wheels and springs are fine...unless your wheels/tires are constantly scrubbing the guards. Height: my car's have never been checked. I use to drive an Integra that was lower than legal (stupidly low). Seven years of owning that car and I didn't once have a problem with getting a pink slip for it. Boost controller: I don't think most local service station garage's would even think to look for one, or even know what one was if they saw it. Tint: Any car built after a certain date (I think it was August 1992 or something) has to be checked by them for the darkness of the tint. If the car was built before this date they are not required to check the tint at all, so you can get away with having 5% tint. (Remember, they can pass it, but the cops can still defect you for it). wil.. P.S. This only applies to NSW. Not sure what it's like in other states. P.P.S. Sxcsky I think I've seen your car. Shepherd's Drive, Cherrybrook ring a bell?

Skyline's don't like vent to air BOV's because they use an AFM. It won't cost you that much. I have a Greddy Profec B spec 2, which is an electronic boost controller (that "computer thingy" that mechanic) was talking about. You can pick one up for about $550 or less. You'll get a bit of an increase of power if you up the boost. But, the A/F's will be overly rich, and you won't make as much power as you should. wil..

Ok...ask him what exactly he's going to "tune". Cause he can't alter the a/f ratio's with the stock computer. To reset the ECU you need to put it into diagnostics mode, turn it off, then done. The ECU has been reset. Easy. (Do a search, this has been discussed before). You could've bought the Ford EL o2 sensor. It's a direct replacement. You just have to cut the wires and resolder them back to the original nissan plug. (This has also been discussed before). Nissan sensor $170 approx, Ford EL o2 sensor $75 approx..... wil..

I think he meant, get the front and dump done and then get the computer. But, if you plan on getting an FMIC in the near future wait until after you get the FMIC to get the computer. I think that's what he meant. I'm in the same boat as you though. I already have the dump/front, and cat back... also have ebc. But stock intercooler. Not sure if I should get an FMIC then a computer or the other way around. I've been advised that the computer will give me more of a power increase than getting just an FMIC. Makes me wonder if getting an FMIC is worth it if all I want is close to 200rwkw. wil..

1 angle bracket on the back right... screw down into the wood, and then screw into the metal at the back (there is just enough room here for a couple of tiny metal-self-tappers). Also secured at the front with a strip of alluminium which is screwed down into the wood, and down into the "metal battery holder frame". Check the pics. You can just see them. wil..

do a google search for "car" and "taser" or "tazer".... They've got club-lock style taser devices in the UK that actually electrocute anyone that comes into your car.

r33 stock ecu's can't be "tuned" unfortunately.

That would work wonders in an auto umm yeah... you lock the accelerator and the brake together in the auto

I guess if you've got a steering wheel lock, that gear shifter lock, and the clutch/brake lock, plus an immobiliser, and alarm you should be pretty much right then yeah? ....until someone comes along with a flatbed. wil..

Unique use to sell this lock that kinda worked like a club lock, except they lock the brake pedal and clutch together. Can't drive away with the brake and clutch moving in unison now can ya.... wil..

ummm.. aren't r32's six cylinders too?

I use to get about 250 to a tank. Now I get around 320-350 to a tank with some spirited driving. I'm happy with that. Fuel usage should drop down once I get a powerfc and lean everything out though. ps.. i thought 320-350km's with a slightly modified skyline was the norm

Not sure dude... But remember, all dyno's give out different readings. The other skyline that went on the *same* dyno, on the *same* day, with similar mods before mine only put out 122rwkw. wil..

I mounted mine next to the battery. I used some scrap particle board we had lying around and some brackets. Check the pics. wil..

Benm are you still running the stock ecu? I'm debating about my next mod. FMIC or power fc. Sydneykid recommended an after market ecu earlier on in this thread before FMIC. I'm just wondering how safe it will be to continue to run 10psi with the stock intercooler. Current mods are: 3" front/dump 3" HKS catback K&N air filter Greddy profec B spec 2 at 10psi (high boost), 7psi (low boost) hmmm....FMIC or powerfc.... I guess with the powerfc I can keep the current boost setting, and lean the mixtures out properly to make more power instead of just shoving more air in there causing the a/f's to be over rich, and increasing the stress put on the engine. Ultimately I want close to 200rwkw. Am I right with my thinking? Sydneykid? Anyone? wil..