Drivebai

ah cool i'll pass mate.. thanks anyway. good luck with the sale.

hey mate what Evo RS Turbo is it off? also do u have pic of the carbon fibre intake?

what colour is your R33 front guard? Do you have passenger side? Where are u?

price?

HEy all i'm after a front LH guard in white (series 1 white) good condition IF you are in Sydney please reply or PM me. Would prefer to check it out first to see if the colours match.

PM sent! I'll take the grill.

If you are chasing big power then go for an ebc. If you are only going for mild mods then you can just stick with a bleed valve. In my opinion the ebc( i have profec B II) is much better than a bleed valve. The bleed valve would spike on my setup ( Had turbosmart dual stage). It was good at holding up to 12psi then after that the boost would spike. Also with the ebc you can adjust the gain setting and start boost setting. This will let your boost hold more steady, and also make boost come on earlier. rather than a bleed valve which you can only adjust how much it will bleed. This is from my experience and my recommendation is if you got the cash go the ebc. I've only used Profec B II so i can't comment on other ebc's. If you got stock turbo and plan to keep it stock, then a bleed valve will be fine. If you are going for aftermarket turbo, then get the EBC. Hope that helps.

Yeah already got apexi pod. Just got a nismo fuel pump. The car runs alot better now. I just played with the boost controller setting. Before the car was laggy and really sluggish, but since playing with the boost controller the car feels much better to drive. boost comes on earlier and harder i even dropped the duty cycle down so max boost is only 16psi. just bumped up the gain value and start boost setting. Midrange is much stronger I'm happy with it for now.

I highly recoomend Yavuz from unigroup. He is a top bloke. Go for the premium tune with them. Cost about $600ish but he has your car for 3 days and he tunes everything.. Cold start, idle, partial throttle etc etc. Also for 12 months he will do tune and check up on your car for free, if anything goes wrong or your not happy.

Clean my Air filter on the weekend, it was filthy (Apexi Pod) Ther was so much dirt and oil coming off it. HAd it for 4 years never cleaned it. Perhaps this was causing the pinging. Also how can you tell if your BOV is leaking. I have the stock BOV.

Hey mate, Yeah my tuner could hear it knocking when it was on the dyno.. i don't know what knocking really sounds like i couldn't hear anything besides the exhaust. But i was in the car during the dyno run and my tuner had his head in the engine bay. Thanks for the replies guys. Will take it to another tuner when time and money permits ( at the moment its on a safe tune so no pinging so it's not like i need to rush). A few people suggested block cat. I took it off and had a look and the honeycomb is still intact, but i guess that doesn't necessarily means it's flowing right. My mate suggested punching the cat out, and see if it stops pinging. Hmm but then if it doesn't fix the problem i will need a new cat anyway. hahaha Carbon canister hey.. will have to check that out too.. thanks for the ideas.

oh ok, It's just that the water temp would rise whenever the car pings. Also i saw on the dyno the second run after the ping, the car makes less power everywhere but no ping.. and he hadn't touched the computer. Weird.

My Old tuner said that when my car is pinging, the water temp rises to about 90. usually it is around 84. He said that when it detects a rise in water temp, the PFC will pull it back abit. Is this true?

HEy mate, Interested in the Series 1 Inlet Turbo Pipe With Plum Back = $30 But i only need the metal BOV retun pipe and the oil breather pipe. I don't need the rubber pipe? Are you willing to separate? HOw much to Sydney? thanks

Hey mate, Do you have the metal pipe for the stock BOV return? it goes from stock BOV to the intake pipe (pipe between AFM and turbo) and il breather pipe? Thanks