lismo

Tommo.......do you know of any more japanese sites that have an office in australia?

Thanks.......yeah i think the jap sites are the best to get that stuff from i just looked at the one i get stuff through. i can get hks cams, hks cam gears, nizmo 740 injectors and split fire coils for $1260.00 its unbelievable if you were to pay for that stuff here you'd be up for nearly $3000

Hi All, I just got the bad news today after a compression test that i basically have to rebuild my engine. The thing is i have never been hard on her and i thought these engines were tough. Lucky i have an uncle that works for nissan and is familiar with my engine. So its not going to cost me an absolute fortune. Does anyone know where i can get a forged internals package??? Im not going for the top of the range internals cause they are insane amounts of money that i just dont have. Thanks ...........................lismo

hi shrike, What wire did he connect to TPS was it the orange one??? Also, what is TPS??? It was the boost signal i was having trouble hooking up to the microtech.

Hi All, I have BDG1RL (BADGIRL) NSW number plates for sale. These plates get alot of attention. $500ono Please pm if interested. Thanks........................liz

Hi All, I have purchased an electronic boost controller for my R33 which i cannot use with my microtech computer. The reasons i have posted up in the skyline specific thread. * This boost controller is designed to work off the standard computer. * It is brand new and has never been used. * Its very easy to install only three wires if just using dual stage solonoid or 5 if connecting the 3rd stage button/switch. It does not come with the 3rd stage switch, just the wires to connect your own too. * I have an R33 pinout guide for installation on an R33. * Will fit any turbo'd car running a standard computer. * Will not bleed boost like non-electronic dual stages. * Comes with a dual stage solonoid and in car controller. * Can be boosted up too just below standard computer boost cut which is about 15 psi on the R33 ( i think ). The item is located in Coffs Harbour NSW. It is brand new. I will pay for registered postage anywhere in australia. I am asking for $300........ no offers please as i have lost enough money on this boost controller as it is. Pics will be posted tomorrow. Please PM me if interested. Thanks, liz

Hi guys, I recently purchased a 3 stage electronic hybrid boost controller. I no longer have the standard computer, I have a microtech lts 12. Apparently i cant run the hybrid electronic boost controller through the microtech. As the hybrid comes with its own solonoid i didnt think there could be a problem, but it turns out the hybrid runs off the standard computer boost signal and as a microtech has its own internal boost signal dosnt work off an external solonoid and there fore cannot be accessed. That was basically how it was explained to me. I was told i can purchase a turbosmart eboost and it will work with a microtech. Does anyone know what the difference is between the hybrid and the eboost and why a hybrid wont work with a microtech but an eboost will???? Has anyone had the same problem as me??? Thanks...................................liz If anyone has a standard computer and wants to buy an electronic boost controller. The Hybrid electronic 3 stage is very easy to install and i have an R33 gts-t pinout guide. It is brand new and has never been used. See for for sale section or PM for details.

bump

They sell short shifter kits on ebay for $250 for R33 and alot of other cars

When i had the radiator recored i got a new cap with it so i dont think the cap is the problem. But yeah i will go and get it tested by the guys who did my core. Thanks so much peoples for your time in replying and your very helpful comments. Its very much appriciated......THANKYOU. liz

no i dont have to top it up, hardly ever actually.

Hi All, I have for sale a turbosmart type 2 veeport blow off valve with a turbosmart adaptor kit for an R33 gts-t skyline, it will also fit the subaru my01. For sale again due to commited buyer not having finances to pay. Its in excellent condition. It is located in Coffs Harbour, NSW. I am going to brisbane next week so i would possibly be able to drop off it on the way or in brisbane. Willing to send anywhere in australia. Looking for $180 and i will pay for postage costs. Please pm me if interested. Thanks, .............................liz

It dosnt seem to be over heating......the temp gauge is right in the middle and thats where it always seems to stay when its running normal. the only time i saw it hot was when i had the other problems. I have just bought a more accurate temp gauge that displays the actual temperature.

psybic: the car has been doing this before it had 210rwkw. the water pump, heater core and head gasket have all been replaced by new ones and i just had the radiator replaced by a bigger core with 20% more cooling than previously. When i had the test done your referring to, my head gasket was blown but still that test did not work and i have no idea why. The cars timing is not advanced at all. Before i got 210rwkw, my car previously had 160rwkw. I acheived 210rwkw buy getting a microtech lts 12 and getting someone in brisbane who really knows microtechs to tune it. So buy just adding a computer i gained a massive 50rwkw. I was told microtechs are better then apexi pfc cause you can do a couple more things with them. And now i believe it.

It only gets the bubbles when it is hot and i have been driving around for a while. I only hear it when the engine is off and it only gurgles just a little bit. It dosnt do it at all when it is cold. When the head gasket was stuffed i took it to get a simple test (where they put that thing in the top of your radiator and it turns green or something) and it didnt change colour so we thought it wasnt the head gasket. My uncle who works at nissan took the engine apart and the head gasket was well gone. It was replaced about 4 months ago with a metal head gasket and im pretty sure the head was tested to see if there were any cracks. The radiator has a bigger new core and with it i got a new radiator cap. There is no leaks and the cooling system is not losing any coolant. I will take it back to the guys who did my radiator and tell them whats going on and see if they can do some tests for me. Thankyou everyone for taking the time to reply to me.

Hi all, Im hoping someone can help me as to what my problem could be. In the span of about 8 months, my water pump went, next was the heater core then my head gasket. I remembered that i could hear like air bubbles being blown up through my overflow tank, it never overflowed,first it started of to be just every now and then when it got hot and just got worse blowing more and more bubbles. About 3 weeks ago i had my radiator recored as i thought it was the source of all my problems. I got a bigger core with 20% more cooling than the original. I thought that would be the end of the air bubbles. But they are back. Is it normal for it to do that??? Has anyone else experienced this problem???

On my 33 ive had my water pump go, my heater core and then my head gasket all in the span of about 8 months. I put it down to my radiator not flowing properly so i got it recored and it wasnt cheap.

they should be completly sealed now.......i will be washing and polishing car tomorrow so i will see then if any water gets into them. The ploy carbon inserts were sealed with sikaflex from behind the headlight, then the whole unit was resealed. The problem i had was that where the black edging that was put around the inserts met up, the guy did not seal it together so i did a neat job of it myself. Also i had a look inside the edging thinking he would have sealed it into the inserts but he only did it in corners. so i put some sikaflex inside the edging. The only reason a tiny bit of water got into it in the first place was when it was at the panel beaters and he washed my car. I specifically told him not wash it or if he did, not to get water near the headlights. But obviously he never listened to me and i was quite pissed off.

DUSH: No i dont think you can buy aftermarket headlights for R33. I had mine modified and it cost me $130 each..........If your interested in my headlights i will sell the pair for $400 ono or swap. I had them fully dryed and sealed yesterday and i can provide receipts for the work done on them. The reason i want to sell them is im not feeling i like the look of them.........i think it is because they are so different.............It might grow on me and it might not but either way i dont mind if the sell them or not. I had a few people come up and say it looks like beemer cross nissan and they really liked it cause it was different and told me i should keep em. But if your interested pm me.

more pics

Finally finished.......i have to move intercooler down a bit and will putting mesh in the grill today. will take some better pics when it is totally complete. I found out last night that my headlights arnt completely sealed even though i payed so much to have this done. I think i could of done a better job myself. i'm going to have to put a bit of black silicone around them. Please tell me what you think

I live in coffs and own a modded R33 and i have been put through so much by the cops here. From rejecting a qualified engineers certificate which was supplied to me through the RTA, to blatenly lying in court. You wouldnt believe half the sh*t i could tell you. Because of them i have been forced to move interstate (QLD) but wouldnt have if it wasnt for the local higway patrol. I find them to be extremely arrogent and rude without being provoked. Take them to court about the fine......they are a law unto them selves and just think they can get away with anything here. See an experienced traffic lawyer first, but im pretty sure you can stick it to em. As with clearing your defect i wouldnt bother because its QLD rego'd they can not cancel your rego, but i was told by one of the highway cops whilst being defected that if i had QLD rego and didnt clear it they can ban me from driving in nsw with those modifications. And im not sure if you'd be able to (if you lived in nsw) change it to nsw rego if it is listed as defective.

i finally get my car back tomorrow..........will post pics

I had a turbosmart veeport type 2 and you could not tighten it enough to not vent or sound like a sequential. I just cant imagine it being able to spin backwards. With a sequential, if that is the case of being too tight, at least some pressure is venting and with what pressure is left i dont think it would ever be enough pressure to spin the wheel backwards. If they harmed the turbo, i dont think they would make them. And just say if it did have the potential to harm the turbo you'd think they would make it semi plumb back for left over pressure.

mine.........pics soon will be updated as i have a new trust front bar and cut the plstic off my headlights