Enterthestagea

I think my mate has one in Perth. Will let you know tmrw if u like.

Very close yes, but not exactly the same. The clutch packs and torque convertor are the same, but the 4WD uses a bigger output shaft. I am thinking the same as you, just need to source a 2wd auto and have a workshop fit the internals to my buggered unit. 4WD uses the bigger output shaft where the transfer case bolts on apparently. I only know this from the auto shop that swapped my units over. F.Y.I. Nissan Patrol use a similar box RE403A 4WD and also the Mazda 20B cosmo thingy which is 2WD. Hence a little bit of background knowledge thank god.

The wire you are talking about seems to be a capillary/mechanical setup, so there is no rejoining it seeing as though it has been cut at the "cat". The light seems to have stopped again, I think I need to replace the O2 sensor anyhoos. Not getting a reading off the wires at the plug, except for the 12 v power wire. If it is the cat that is blocked, seems funny that the wire would give me a reading, unless it was the 02 sensor signalling the dash light.

Same prob with me the other day too. Lost first and fourth, then got first back and lost third. Then lost all except 2nd. Go figure, anyways, heaps of metal in box caused from moisture inside it somewhere. Prob from sitting in Japan, slight signs of rust on the tin where it should of been shiny. $2.5K to recondition, but I rang around and fluked a 2/h unit they guaranteed to work. Fitted it and its all good now. Defintely did not fit it myself, I would rather change the motor "again" before I attempt that. Now I have got a spare motor and box. Both needing a recond. One day they'll get the attention they need.

Knowledge of these things can be very hard to source, seeing as though they are still so different to skylines in some ways. 4WD and no HICAS, stuff like that. Anyhoos, thanks heaps for your comments guys, its good to get such a response still from everyone.

so maybe the O2 sensor is letting too much fuel in and causing it. It seems to be "heavier" again than it normally is. Like lucky to touch 300kms around town now just city driving. Used to get 350 - 400kms. So is this also measured at the o2 sensor aswell and whats the best replacement.

Thanks again for the diagnosis, anybody know what the fluid pump is on the back of the auto and what fluid it should be refilled with.

YEP, definetly number 12. I had to cut the temp sensor wire that comes out from under the mid floor to the second cat convertor. But that was a while ago. Should of seen the light since then. Thanks heaps for that info. Other than speaking Japlish, does anybody know what to do now.

There is a warning that flashes on my dash right beside the handbrake light and it looks like a "chevrolet" badge with wavey lines or steam coming off it. I have just recently had a replacement auto fitted and a bit of hyd fluid was lost from the back of the auto from a resevoir. It is still within the Min-Max range, not sure if this has anything to do with it. Automatic shop (very reputable) did not know what it is. It looks like an oil pump for the variable 4WD system, does this have anything to do with it. Has a 3 core radiator fitted, is this the overheat light, shouldn't be hot. Any ideas what this is.

15L/100km is the best I can get around town (normally 17L/100km) all depends how much weekend driving I do, dump pipe and bigger zorst certainly helped. Definetly could get 500kms or more / tank on the highway sitting on a 100 - 110km/h w a/c.

Why wouldn't it be the torque converter trying to lock up. My stag does it in every gear once you start idling along the road. The revs drop and it cruises along until you touch the throttle again and it kicks back like half a gear, but stays in which ever gear it was in. Maybe the torque converter / filter is effecting the revs. You can run a fault check on the auto easy enough just by turning the key on and off and going through the auto gears gears. Or maybe I wouldn't have a clue either!

Sorry I missed your post last night, will send photos tommorow and advise rest in email

I've got a 4 door GTS-t in immaculate condition with 55km, manual, stock exhuast, tyres, interior, very straight and very smooth to drive. Qld and 4 door, let me know when you are ready for a trip up here and give up on finding a 2 door in stock std trim.

Rear brake pads - DB1144 (same as R31) seemed a little thicker than I'd prefer but @ around $45-$50 a set, it sure is better than the $150.00 genuine I was quoted. (only got 12 months out of them).

Vibration under hard (not very hard) braking, no real suprise there but, anything that small trying to stop 1800kg of wagon is going to wanna argue. Rear brake pads worn out in 12 months, so I've machined rotors, put a set of R31 rear pads in at a 3rd of the price for the genuine ones and seems to be gone for now.

Qld, but u already new that.

What about $550 for a set of bilsteins, and I think the rears were $350.

Or what about "STAY..........GEEE.............AHHHH"!

Either way its GOLD alright (I've really outdone myself this time) haha

Don't remember N E thing on mine. If it doesn't dim the dash lights, does it switch on or off, or come back to the same position. Maybe if you hold it in to adjust and let it out at the setting you want. Other than that I would like to know the answer also.