r32obsession

Ah alright I'll have to tackle that issue first and make sure my base timing is 100% correct. Otherwise I'm just chasing my own tail I feel.

Hey guys, I plugged in nissan consult into my R34 20DE NEO and the timing at idle fluctuates between 0 BTDC and 7ish BTDC I see on the service manual that is should be 10 degrees BTDC with no feedback control, what does no feedback control mean? Also the car seems to have a hesitation issue when you put on a little bit of throttle around 2500rpm, especially going uphill. It'll rev up fine and drive fine at all other RPM. I checked the CAS and it was nearly fully retarded, I undid the bolts and advanced it so the CAS now sits just under halfway from either side. The hesitation issue seems to have died down a bit, and is hardly noticeable now but is still there. (Also yes I know anticlockwise is advancing CAS and clockwise is retarding) Something to note is that with the original setting of the CAS, the engine intake plenum was actually unbearably hot to touch for more than a second or two, now that I've moved it back, took it for a good hard drive and came back, I can actually rest my palm on the plenum and leave it there without worry. So I feel I'm on the right track, but now I need a timing light to adjust the timing to proper base timing am I right? It's weird because I always thought it was only if you advance the timing too much that the engine heats up.

This colour has grown on me but I do love the dark blue colour they came in. I had one in that colour once, looked absolutely amazing once it was polished and waxed.

Ah completely forgot about this, I've managed to sort it now and whilst doing it, what he said on other threads makes sense. So all solved! If anyone encounters the same issues I've had and needs help, feel free to PM me and I'll try help you with what I've learnt. I ended up ditching the factory lines and using a braided clutch line. Saved so much time trying to tighten the stupid flare nut going into master cylinder

That guy sure loves his job! He really knows his stuff too and his own limits. Awesome video, thanks for sharing

Cheers Roy! I probably will not put an FMIC on this one unless it's return flow and bolts straight in behind my bumper. I absolutely refuse to modify the body in an irreversible manner. Probably settle for a larger ARC side mount that I see pop up for sale sometimes on trademe. I don't really have many modification plans for this, it's hard enough keeping up with maintenance while being on a student's budget!

Yep she's a keeper for sure! Can't describe how great she is haha.

My R32, girlfriend's R34. I did an oil change and in return she waxed my car

Cheers guys, I didn't put the rims on. Got the car like that. The previous owners have cared for it really well. However, I am finding issues from general wear and tear. No dodge jobs though so it's good. I never realised how expensive those wheels were either! I'll put some pics up in the the R32 pics thread.

Here is a picture while moderators approve my build thread

Alright so I've decided to finally make a thread about my current skyline(s) and keep a log of things I do and have planned for them. I didn't really make one before because I didn't have time to work on cars. But I'm getting up to exam period and soon and after it I'll be working close to full time hours so I'll have enough money and to get some work done. First up is my main car, I love this thing: Hi all this is my R32. Completely standard genuine M-Spec. RB20DET, manual. Only modifications were done by last owner which are Enkei RPF01 mags, Hicas lock bar and 3inch exhaust with sports mufflers. It even has a new catalytic converter rather than just replacing with a resonator. It's been cared for really well in its past life. Got a whole folder with receipts for work done by previous owners I've recently replaced the fuel pump after it died on me on the way to uni. List of things that need doing on it: *wing mirror and rear spoiler have clear coat bubbles *Clutch fluid leak somewhere, I think its slave cylinder All fixed now! *I've found that one of the rear bushes is completely shot and has leaked grease everywhere, so I'll need to drop the subframe and replace all bushes while I'm there. *Rocker cover gasket oil leak, it was leaking slightly since I got it but it seems to have stopped now *Fuel injectors are leaking slightly *sort out the passenger door paint, it was hit by a motorcyclist and is a bit warped (you can see the black rust kill where last owner did a small fix). I think lots of those issues are coming up because the car had only been driven less than a few thousand KM by the last owner over a year. So seals end up turning to sh*t etc. The plan is to get this R32 ready for 4 and rotors in January so I can display it proudly next to the other guys in the club! Pics of the car I also bought a second R32 I figured since it was so cheap, I might as well get it and see what happens. I don't really have plans for it but I reckon a tidy up, fix what needs fixing and daily drive/sell might be in order to help fund my 20DET to completion. It's a factory 20DE, auto. Drives awesomely and just needs a good clean up. I think this car will be mainly to practice cleaning and fixing bodywork techniques while my 20DET will be for engine and technical work. We'll see what happens

ARGH ok first issue, the thread on the new master cyl was f*cked. The U bracket would not budge at all because it was seized on there. I have no idea how it happened seeing as I never even touched that section till I needed to adjust pedal throw. Anyway, it's getting replaced. I have another issue, after bleeding the system. I started the car, it wouldn't go into gear. My slave cylinder only moves just over 1cm so I assume there's not enough throw. My pedal also has like half the travel it used to. So is my thinking right, if I turn the U bracket on the pushrod and bring it out more, essentially lengthening the rod, I'll have more throw so I can push the slave cylinder more too right? How do I know if I'm adjusting it correctly and how much I need to adjust? Any information will be awesome, cheers guys! BTW I have read a heaps of threads on there about clutch adjustment and all that jazz, there seems to be a very knowledgeable member on here called elite racing. Hopefully if you see this, I would appreciate your input

inb4 DIY: r32obsessions guide to lowering your car with everyday tools you have at home

My dream is to stancenation my car so I can't get out my driveway and complain about it

Hey guys thanks for your replies. I've been told I can get a mild steel one fabricated for a box of beers at a garage if I hunt around so that's probably sorted. Today as I was driving barefoot for the first time, I felt a drip of something on my foot. Turns out it was clutch fluid, so now I know where the leak is from! I'll hopefully replace that tomorrow. See if I can get my hands on a slave at the same time The supplier didn't know if he had any in stock. I also do have to do gearbox oil, been putting it off for a while now. Will report back soon! Thanks again you guys

Haha it's just a stricter NZ really. Although your cars are more tastefully modifed. Yet to see an matte black R32 on cut springs and screamer pipe with aussie plates

Hi guys just need advice on a couple of things: 1. My clutch fluid is dropping slowly. I have to top it up every 300ks or so. I think it's my slave cylinder as my master doesn't appear to have any leaks. However the slave doesn't seem to show any signs of leaking either but I really have to get under the gearbox and check, I'm just checking from the side. I do notice small spots of oil that has dropped onto the garage floor however and it is brake/clutch fluid. Anyone know where they usually leak from? Between pushrod and housing? If i get this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...-531091958.htm what do I do about it having no pushrod? Can I use the rod from my busted one? How do I go about pulling the old one apart and putting it in the new one then setting the right travel etc 2. My gearbox feels notchy during shifts, I think it has something to do with the clutch not disengaging fully maybe. Is that possible? Sometimes it's hard to put into first gear, it refuses to go in and I have to let the pedal out then back in a couple of times and it almost always crunches if the revs were high and I put it in reverse too quick. The synchros don't crunch into any of the gears at high RPM though and it goes into first just fine if I'm slowing down and changing to it. What do you all reckon? 3. Oh also. I want to replace my factory front pipe and de-cat. The problem is the only available aftermarket stuff seems to be stainless steel, from luxury sports. The cat back system I currently have is mild steel. Will the difference in thermal expansion between the two cause my gaskets to fail when things warp? Or will things be alright if I bolt it together very tightly and use rubber mounts to allow for some movement? I have no idea haha... Otherwise, does anyone know where I can get a 2.5 or 3inch mild steel replacement to replace the factory front pipe? Thanks in advance!

Hi guys, I'm a skyline lover from NZ. I live on SDU usually. I run the SDU facebook page and I see a lot of Aussies on it, always end up redirecting them to your page when they ask about meets or other questions Anyway I have a few questions about my car and after some google searches, SAU keeps coming up with good information on things. So finally I have decided to sign up after many years! I'm currently driving my 6th R32 skyline/7th RB powered beast. Love them and can't imagine driving anything else! Hence my forum username. I currently have an R32 GTST Mspec. I'll make a build thread later maybe. I have a lot of uni holiday to get through, so I'm keen to fix up little things on the car and update as I go along so I can always ask for help/information. Cheers!